cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

so my a/c still works and i am not having any problems. however, a little orange oil is leaking out of the compressor. should i just replace the compressor or do other parts need to be changed out as well?

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Orange? Did someone ever put dye in the system? Anyways, I would replace just the compressor as long as it's operating and functioning properly. I've replaced 100+ compressors on GM cars that were leaking and it never needed another part unless the compressor exploded and shot metal into the system. Hope that helps! Buy a GM compressor because I've had numerous customers come in 500 miles later after they went cheap with an exploded/leaking/caught on fire junk Napa or Autozone compressor. I know it's more money but when you need to replace it every year you'll be sorry.

cowboysfan

were exactly on the compressor do you see this orange oil at?

elwood2

iTrader: (5)

Can you tell where it's leaking from? There's a few spots with o-rings and you may be able to get away with replacing some cheap o-rings.

DAVE00

iTrader: (10)

Run some dye thru it first to see where/what is actually leaking. If you're seeing oil from the compressor it is probably the infamous case seal or the front shaft seal as they go bad over time and you'll start leaking 134a and oil. If you determine it's your comp then you'll need a new compressor, dryer/acumulator, orifice tube or exp block (depending on your setup), pag oil and flush to clean out the system. I've done this twice in the past 6months on my T/A and my wife's suburban and it's very simple and the T/A was actually easier as getting to the compressor bolts was a snap. The reason you are going to need all of the above is most compressors sold new will not honor a warranty (if you have to use it) unless you have proof that you cleaned the system and replaced those components new. That being said, check it first before you go throwing a compressor at it as you may just have a bad seal on the back of the compressor where the lines bolt up - you never know until you run dye thru it to find out.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what deals your Pontiac/GM dealers have....but when my factory original compressor started leaking I decided to spend the approx. $800 at my local dealership to get it done. All they replaced was the compressor and I think the orifice tube, maybe some other small part, can't remember.

BUT....I received a Lifetime PARTS and LABOR warranty. I'll never spend another penny on a failed A/C system. I already cashed in on it too...about 3 years later my A/C just suddenly stopped blowing cold while driving. I pulled into the dealership and they said a wire coming from the compressor looks worn or got frayed and ate through itself. They replaced that wire, about $300 worth of labor and parts. 100% FREE.

Screw all the aftermarket crap with 90 day warranties. Plus you will always have to pay for labor to repair them even within the warranty period, at most places anyway.

A/C is one of those things that I will only do at the dealerships on my cars, just too expensive of a system.

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TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Exactly! Thanks for supporting what I said above and it's nice to hear people happy with dealerships. I know dealerships are not the cheapest but in the case of an A/C system you can't beat the warranty. Some of the others posted information that I consider "parts store" rhetoric. They have you buy a new drier because their crap compressor needs all the help it can get. Plus not buying a drier is an excuse for them not to warranty your parts. Also, flushing the system when nothing has contaminated it is a waste of time. Furthermore, that flush won't get all of the contaminants out of a system where a compressor has exploded. You can't buy stuff at a parts store that will replace the dealerships 8000 dollar A/C machine. I'm not trying to be mean I'm trying to save this man some money and headache. Put it this way my dealer use to offer people the choice of aftermarket or GM and now we won't anymore because of the quality of the product. I wouldn't put an aftermarket compressor on my worst enemies car!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yup. I asked them if they were going to vacuum the system down because the system will be open. The tech that did the work told me he hasen't vacuumed a system down in years unless it was a compressor coming apart and debris might be in there. Never has comebacks....Or he said if someone comes in where the system was opened up for weeks or months and moisture might be in there. Especially in humid Florida. If its just a replacement he said he never ever does it. Its been years and mine is fine and it blows so damn cold it'll hurt your hand if it blows on it too long. And it blows that damn cold in 100*F South Florida weather.

But man....its really good to know I have a 13 year old car and if my A/C explodes....its 100% FREE to replace.

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TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

What part of Florida? What dealership? That sounds like me talking lol! Yeah, I feel so bad for people when that route doesn't work out. I put 4 Napa compressors on a womans Blazer in a month period and then I put a GM compressor on it and haven't seen it since.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Sheehan Pontiac in Pompano Beach. Basically its North Ft. Lauderdale.

GREAT dealership.....they do not rip people off, believe it or not. My friend is the manager of the parts department, 15 years now, he gives me everything at amazing prices.

I know all the techs and watch them work on my car. I'm friends with Tom Sheehan....the owner of the dealership. He has a G8 with a 416ci and a Convertable Trans Am with a 408ci. Both built by Airflow Technology in Pompano Beach. He's doing my 441ci.

I had a problem once where I kept throwing my A/C belt. One of the tensioner bolts was actually stripping inside the aluminum block and coming loose. I pulled in there one day when they were busy as hell. I had to wait all day and leave my car. The A/C tech that I know said, "come back in 30 minutes and I'll fix it on my lunch break." It needed this kit where they tap a steel sleeve into the block and then with a new bolt, tighten the tensioner back on. It took him about 30 minutes to do it. No charge.......just did it for me. The service guy was like, thats cool, its your lunch break.

Just very cool people at this dealership. I get scanned anytime for free too. I also was given a 15% off all work done "card" by the owner of the dealership....the day I took him for a ride in my car and let him drive it. lol Its a lifetime card, its good forever on everything I have done.

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BRUTL

iTrader: (27)

I don't know what they teach the techs at your dealership, but it's necessary to pull a vacuum on the system so that it can be recharged. That's just how it's done. Recover, Repair, Vacuum, Recharge. That's how it was taught to me, that's how the World Class GM Technicians that I work side by side with do it, that's how I'll always do it. Seems funny to hear that someone doesn't pull a vacuum on a system when doing AC repairs.

elwood2

iTrader: (5)

I agree. Not only is it necessary to evaporate any moister in the system (water boils at room temp under a vacuum), but it's also used to check for leaks.

You can have a very slow leak and not notice till months down the road. Drawing a vacuum for at least 30mins to an hour will save you a lot of headache.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I know.....its just what they told me. And not only the dealership, but a few A/C shops around here also said its 100% unnecessary if you are just changing a compressor and theres no reason to expect any other part of the system is bad or leaking.

And mine is going on about 6 years and its perfect............

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TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

Under warranty you can't skip vacuuming a system because GM claims require a printout from an ACR2000 or one similar. The minimum time for vacuuming a system is 3 minutes if the system hasn't been open. However, if a system hasn't been open I usually vacuum it for the minimum of 10 while I'm filling out paperwork. If it's been open for a while I'd say an hour is the minimum. Some people with older machines are able to skip this step and live by the term "flat rate or flat broke".

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

i see the orange oil right on the bottom of the compressor. i just wasn't sure if the accumulator/drier and orifice tube was needed if the A/C is still working properly.

BRUTL

iTrader: (27)

If the compressor is leaking, and you are in the market to replace it, then a Receiver/Drier and orifice tube are recommended when the system is opened up.

elwood2

iTrader: (5)

Yes, i forgot that. Definitely change the receiver/drier and orifice tube.

The receiver/drier is cheap, no more than $30. You definitely want to change the orifice tube because it acts somewhat as a small filter and it is the last place the coolant gets "filtered" before going to the evaporator. The orifice tube is $8 or cheaper unless you get the variable one which is like $30 but it's only recommended for extreme environments.

I bought a variable orifice ($20something) tube and noticed no difference than the cheap regular one.