The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

I was going to get that pcv valve cleaned today but i needed my car done so i could use it and didnt have time to get to it before it got dark.

I cleaned up the TB and it was very dirty, i put my finger inside the intake manifold to see why it was wet inside and it didnt really smell if anything it smelt and looked like oil..

Im going to be ordering the egr gasket soon if only to get rid of that sound on start up. When i went to the parts store they couldnt find it, ive seen two types that look like they work and dont know which.

zed28camaro

iTrader: (1)

I agree with this guy as well. If you are getting air into the exhaust stream close/ before your o2s they won't like that too much. It will definitely think that the car is running lean and fatten up the air fuel ratio in an attempt to save your engine from going too lean (in reality its not the o2s just see what is going on in the exhaust). PCM commands the injectors to spray more fuel, you lose gas mileage. Definitely something to look into, actually any exhaust leaks near the o2s

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

^ Yeah im going to order one as soon as i figure out which one of those above i need.. Can anyone confirm which of those is the correct gasket?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

You want the larger one on the left, the other gasket is for the air tubes on the exhaust manifolds.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Alright well, i got the air tube gasket ordered (got them mixed up and thats the one i need) thanks 99blue, should be here in 3 days or so, got my ac back on and fixed all the squeals.

I called around and the cheapest scan is done by the automotive department of my school and they charge $45/hr, called the gm dealer and the charge $80/hr, the other small shops in this god forsaken town didnt really have a clue what i was talking about (like always) The school is booked till April though so im going to still try to pin point it myself.

I noticed today that at idle my oil pressure is around 50 and when i accelerate to 2k it jumps up to 60 then when i let of it goes back down. I know these are dummy gauges more or less but it stays constant for the most part in the past. I also have a good amount of oil on the bottom of my car, but i believe that was from when i switched to moble 1 synthetic..im pondering switching back. I dont believe this is affecting my gas though.. Going to clean that pcv valve today also.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Today I was pulling plug wires from the drivers side while it was running and it didn't make any difference on how it ran (which seams weak now days). It was arcing though on the coil so I guess they are working but yeah I thought the motor would be runnih bad. I didnt do it on the passengers side cause I have to remove the air tube to get to them.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If you weren't getting spark to the entire driver side bank your engine should have been shaking really bad, and it would of thrown multiple misfire codes.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I realized it would be very unbalence after I thought about it. This afternoon I'll just pull two ad see what happens. I just figured I would be able to notice a difference without one cylinder

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Don't know if you ever saw my thread awhile ago when my PCM got fried. It completely took out the drivers side 4 cylinders. I could start the engine and it idles fine, not off balance at all. I could touch all 4 exhaust manifold pipes and they were dead cold, the passegers side 4 cylinders were running fine and hot. I noticed a loss in power while driving home the night before (and an occassional spit when one of the 4 would fire out of the blue), so it drove about home about 6 miles normally, no shaking or off balance, just horrible power output because half the engine was off. I waited till the next day when it was cooled off to start it again to start checking things and thats when I did the exhaust manifold heat feeler test after it idled for 1 minute.

I had one cylinder not firing once when a plug wire was not snapped on after I did a complete spark plug change....almost no difference was felt in power when I went for a ride when I was done. I didn't get an SES light either which was strange. When I saw it hanging off after I popped the hood right after a short ride, I was like WTF....I put it back on and that was that. Odd...I didn't notice a power issue. Maybe its just not apparent so much with ~500 RWHP. I never went WOT, just a normal drive for about 10 minutes.

.

mushroom281

iTrader: (40)

Yeah my phone does the same thing. But I was curious as to whatyou took off and it was clogged?

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

^say what?

Yeah ls6 I read that actually and that's what I was trying to figure out. My coils are doing fine they were arcing after I took the wires off, even shocked the **** outta me today haha. I forgot you felt the manifolds ad they were cold though, I should check that

zed28camaro

iTrader: (1)

you shouldnt test the spark from the coils like that. It could mess up the PCM or ruin the coils. The best way to do it on a distributorless system is to unplug each coil separately and then see if it changes. Way less risk of damage that way. Wouldnt want to be chasing down another issue you accidentally created while trying to fix another.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

^Yeah it probably isnt the best way thats for sure.

Randomly yesterday my SES light when on so i pulled a secondary air and engine temp sensor codes. I have had both codes, thought i fixed the secondary air when i found it clogged with the old gasket and also i just installed a new one so we'll see if that goes away. Also the check engine light came on only after i unplugged it to do my spark plug change but i plugged it back in also and it eventually went off.

Still waiting to get it into the shop but seeing what i can do in the mean time.. Wish i could find someone else besides the school here or a gm dealer that will scan it.

Procharger 1995

Help Help running rich dumping raw fuel into engine, replaced Fuel P. reg. IAC
valve Temp sensor no luck no codes runs better when warmed up but way to
rich. Can't get started unless hold it to the floor when cold then hardley runs.
Don't know what to do 1995 firehawk with procharger this problem started
all of a sudden, need some suggestions on what to try next??????? Fuel
injectors ok .

zed28camaro

iTrader: (1)

I'd check that ECT out too, it actually has a lot of input when it comes to idle and fuel control

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

^That is true. Today i got readings from it and it checks out to be fine (given that the mulimeter jumped around alot and was hard to locate on the terminals) ~20k ohms cold, ~500 operating temp (slightly cooled down). Seemed like it was fine though.. I unplugged it as well and could definatly tell a difference (weaker). I also checked the wire and it had the normal 2.5V reading as well.

When i took it out to get it to running temp though there was a little "rapping" or slight knock when reaching close to 2000 rmp. It also threw the damn secondary air code so im guessing my pump is going or gone out, no big deal.

I doubt i will be able to diagnose it myself unless i just start replacing everything, guess ill have to wait till April when i can get it scanned

zed28camaro

iTrader: (1)

what kind of knock? Usually you hear a knock all the time if its like a lower end thing. And by that testing I'd say that pretty much rules out your ECT

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Yeah it was a lower knock and after a while it quit pretty much, not too good of an ear for that stuff though.. I though the typical piston slap on cold starts was a higher ticking sort of sound.

bmax

iTrader: (1)

^^This^^

Brad

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Well, since she got bumped..

My latest findings before leaving for spring break: I reset the pcm by unplugging the battery, when i started it up it ran like that one time i posted here before, around 500 rmp and a slow touch of the throttle bogged it down it seemed and if i went past that it would then get out the the bogged state and run normal, and when gas was let off it would dive down to 400 and then back up to 500. So low idle, caused by whatever. Turned the car off started it again, running fine. Pcm adjusted to lean condition? Common for car to "relearn" like this after resetting the battery? Not sure..

I also checked again for vacuum leaks and found nothing. I heard its good to remove the iac valve before checking though because it may keep you from finding a leak.. is this true? Either way i dont think i have one..just figured i would check again