Help with dead spot
02-25-2011, 10:53 PM
#23
Just a thought.....
SeaFoam is useless in cleaning a top end through the brake booster line with the engine idling....that way it does next to nothing.
BUT..........if you could pour the SeaFoam directly into each cylinder so it could be nice and wet in there and soak into any build-ups...that would be very effective.
Simply pull all your spark plugs and stick pieces of rags into each spark plug hole. Then fill each cylinder through the exhaust port. Have a friend bump the key (fuel pump fuse pulled) VERY SLOWLY to allow each valve to open and close just once each so the SeaFoam gets past and fills the cylinders. Then top off each one till all the exhaust valves are covered.
Then remove the intake and fill each runner of each head till its topped off so the intake valves will be cleaned. Let it sit and soak.
Then clean the intake the right way (with it removed) by filling it up with a strong *** degreaser. Or better yet, submerge it in degreaser if you can (Formula 88 is awesome) and let it sit. I took my intake off to clean it, only real way to clean it. Use a bendable toilet brush to clean out each runner.
Then later pull the rags out of the spark plug holes and let the fluid drain out...then turn it over for a few seconds to make sure its all out. You won't get hydralock because the plugs are not in there. No worries.
Slap some brand new spark plugs in, put the intake on, headers installed, pop the fuse back in, and crank it up. That top end will be CLEAN.
Just a thought.........
.
SeaFoam is useless in cleaning a top end through the brake booster line with the engine idling....that way it does next to nothing.
BUT..........if you could pour the SeaFoam directly into each cylinder so it could be nice and wet in there and soak into any build-ups...that would be very effective.
Simply pull all your spark plugs and stick pieces of rags into each spark plug hole. Then fill each cylinder through the exhaust port. Have a friend bump the key (fuel pump fuse pulled) VERY SLOWLY to allow each valve to open and close just once each so the SeaFoam gets past and fills the cylinders. Then top off each one till all the exhaust valves are covered.
Then remove the intake and fill each runner of each head till its topped off so the intake valves will be cleaned. Let it sit and soak.
Then clean the intake the right way (with it removed) by filling it up with a strong *** degreaser. Or better yet, submerge it in degreaser if you can (Formula 88 is awesome) and let it sit. I took my intake off to clean it, only real way to clean it. Use a bendable toilet brush to clean out each runner.
Then later pull the rags out of the spark plug holes and let the fluid drain out...then turn it over for a few seconds to make sure its all out. You won't get hydralock because the plugs are not in there. No worries.
Slap some brand new spark plugs in, put the intake on, headers installed, pop the fuse back in, and crank it up. That top end will be CLEAN.
Just a thought.........
.
02-26-2011, 12:38 AM
#24
On The Tree
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Just like the title says. About 2200-2600 rpms i can feel a dead spot. Like something is holding the car back a little. I've received my headers and will b doin the install in a few weeks which will include !EGR, !AIR, true Duals, spark plugs, wires, and a fuel filter. I'm
Hoping one of those takes care of the problem. Other than that I'm not sure what would b causing it. I'm assuming fuel or ignition. Thanks for the help.
Car has SLP Lid which needs to be replaced. Previous owner dropped something on it and broke it. Now thes a big retabgular hole cut in the front of it. And that's the only mod it has.
I'm goin to out some fuel injector cleaner in it tonight also. Thanks again.
Hoping one of those takes care of the problem. Other than that I'm not sure what would b causing it. I'm assuming fuel or ignition. Thanks for the help.
Car has SLP Lid which needs to be replaced. Previous owner dropped something on it and broke it. Now thes a big retabgular hole cut in the front of it. And that's the only mod it has.
I'm goin to out some fuel injector cleaner in it tonight also. Thanks again.
02-26-2011, 02:42 AM
#25
Ehhhh I dunno bout all that. Thanks for the advise though. If Imma pull the intake off, it's goin to be to put a better one on lol. I thought about buying the 101mm performance products intake and throttle body in a month or so. I'll change the plugs and wires and fuel fitter. I'll b removing the cats, EGR, and AIR, so well see what that does first. Even if I attempted to remove the intake, I wouldn't have time on Sunday...it has to b at the exhaust shop Monday morning and I wok 3rd shift so the headers have to b on by Sunday night. Thanks again though. And like I said I'll update this probably Monday afternoon if my exhaust gets finished.
02-26-2011, 09:57 AM
#26
so i went to advance auto to have my car scanned since my SES light has been on. It pulled up codes P0174, P0171, P0300. first two are "Banks 1 and 2 lean condition" and the 3rd is "Random/multiple misfire. Now ive heard that the vacuum leak in the PCV line can cause the lean conditions along with a dirty MAF. And the P0300 can be caused by fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, coils, ignition.... Also to mention that sometimes the car doesnt have that dead spot, but most of the time it does.... what do you guys think?
02-26-2011, 05:19 PM
#27
OK for one thing do not put sea foam straight in your motor like that unless you want to melt the piston..... Theres a reason they tell you to put in your gas. A vacuum leak definately can cause a lean motor since extra air is getting into the motor with out sensors reading it. Fix that do a tuneup and get back with us
02-26-2011, 10:26 PM
#29
OK for one thing do not put sea foam straight in your motor like that unless you want to melt the piston..... Theres a reason they tell you to put in your gas. A vacuum leak definately can cause a lean motor since extra air is getting into the motor with out sensors reading it. Fix that do a tuneup and get back with us
I put SeaFoam into each cylinder and let it soak on my pistons for a whole night to soften up the **** in those pictures. I would bump the key to put the pistons at BDC so I could fill them up for a whole day. It made it easy to scrape that **** off. YEARS later, my pistons are fine and it didn't melt my sleeves either....hahahaha......
.
03-01-2011, 11:17 PM
#30
**UPDATE**.
Well the header install went well. It took about 7hrs to do everything. Plugs, wires, EGR block off, air removal. A buddy and I had access to a lift and his step dad is a mechanic and has about $150k worth of tools. So we had everything that we needed to get the job done. We took our time and just had fun with it. the passenger side header went right in and the drivers side did as well, as soon as we ground off that little tab off the block. Other than that we didn't need to bend, move, or disconnect anything. before I started I cleared the SES codes. And after we were done I let it run an the SES light popped up again. I scanned it and it only threw the rear 02 codes since I deleted the cats. The other 3 codes I was getting didn't return. I drove it the exhaust shop with paper towels in my ears lol, and holy **** it was still loud. Any and everything that could rattle in my car....did. I dropped it off at the shop on Sunday night and drew a pic of how I wanted the exhaust ran. Originally I wanted it ran over by the passenger side with an H pipe then back over dumped before the axle. They called me on Monday and said they couldn't bend 3" pipe that far eihout crushing it. So I suggest to run it in the middle of the car like all the TD kits are. I ended up showing them a picture of a TSP TD kit and they were like. " I dunno if we should do that, it's probably gonna scrape the ground. I told them, trust me, tuck as best as you can, everything will be fine
. So they ended up finishing it today. I got the and they did a pretty good job. They were surprised how well it tucked. I dont like how they did the H Pipe in the middle. Basically it's a pipe into a bigger pipe then clamped together. I'll have it fixed. But for $250 I can't complain. The whole system is pacesetter LT, 3" TD into H pipe dumped with dynomax bullets 23 1/4". They car sounds awesome driving around town. And it gets pretty loud when ya open her up. So far I haven noticed any dead spot. That vacuum leak I had was fixed and that's what I'm guessing was causing the problem. she does break the tires loose a little easier. Only thing is I can't hear the squeal of the tires over my exhaust. Muahahahaha. overall I'm happy. I have some interior rattles I need to take care of Now though lol. I'll get pics and a video up later. Thanks for all the help!
Well the header install went well. It took about 7hrs to do everything. Plugs, wires, EGR block off, air removal. A buddy and I had access to a lift and his step dad is a mechanic and has about $150k worth of tools. So we had everything that we needed to get the job done. We took our time and just had fun with it. the passenger side header went right in and the drivers side did as well, as soon as we ground off that little tab off the block. Other than that we didn't need to bend, move, or disconnect anything. before I started I cleared the SES codes. And after we were done I let it run an the SES light popped up again. I scanned it and it only threw the rear 02 codes since I deleted the cats. The other 3 codes I was getting didn't return. I drove it the exhaust shop with paper towels in my ears lol, and holy **** it was still loud. Any and everything that could rattle in my car....did. I dropped it off at the shop on Sunday night and drew a pic of how I wanted the exhaust ran. Originally I wanted it ran over by the passenger side with an H pipe then back over dumped before the axle. They called me on Monday and said they couldn't bend 3" pipe that far eihout crushing it. So I suggest to run it in the middle of the car like all the TD kits are. I ended up showing them a picture of a TSP TD kit and they were like. " I dunno if we should do that, it's probably gonna scrape the ground. I told them, trust me, tuck as best as you can, everything will be fine
. So they ended up finishing it today. I got the and they did a pretty good job. They were surprised how well it tucked. I dont like how they did the H Pipe in the middle. Basically it's a pipe into a bigger pipe then clamped together. I'll have it fixed. But for $250 I can't complain. The whole system is pacesetter LT, 3" TD into H pipe dumped with dynomax bullets 23 1/4". They car sounds awesome driving around town. And it gets pretty loud when ya open her up. So far I haven noticed any dead spot. That vacuum leak I had was fixed and that's what I'm guessing was causing the problem. she does break the tires loose a little easier. Only thing is I can't hear the squeal of the tires over my exhaust. Muahahahaha. overall I'm happy. I have some interior rattles I need to take care of Now though lol. I'll get pics and a video up later. Thanks for all the help! 