LOw idle and chasing throatle coming to a stop help!
#42
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I'm probably just going to wait til I get my headers installed to do anything about it. Sorry man. Let me know if you find anything. I'm pretty much out of ideas besides a leak or bad sensor and if its going to get tuned then he will find the problem for sure.
#43
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Yeah it seems like when the car itself is warmer, it wantes to die more. If that makes any sense. I think i found a small leak at the EGR valve on top of the intake but i'm not sure. I'm going to get the o-ring gasket. Also, when I took the EGR plate off the top, it was pretty dirty in there so i'm working on cleaning that too. ANOTHER problem I have is a squeaky idler pulley on the A/C line so again i'm working on it. Just little odds and ends here and there that i'm working on and its been a busy week at work. When I get the headers from TSP I think I get a block off plate for that so I may not have to worry about it.
I'm probably just going to wait til I get my headers installed to do anything about it. Sorry man. Let me know if you find anything. I'm pretty much out of ideas besides a leak or bad sensor and if its going to get tuned then he will find the problem for sure.
I'm probably just going to wait til I get my headers installed to do anything about it. Sorry man. Let me know if you find anything. I'm pretty much out of ideas besides a leak or bad sensor and if its going to get tuned then he will find the problem for sure.
same issues here ... i bought the tps and it didnt work here either...
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I think I just found a leak lol. Top intake manifold where the egr goes in. I put a hose up to it and could hear it from the back side. Guess it didn't show up when I sprayed cause I sprayed from the front. Napa will have a gasket for me tom
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let me know .... today i checked and cleaned the grounds... and replaced my fuel filter... definiatly needed to be changed but no difference in rpms... i even checked the gasket around the egr tube to the manifold... but it did seem a little loose... let me know if that fixes it? Also i unpluged the egr to c if it was bad... im lost on whats wrong.. i wish some one would cherp in...
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No kidding. I REALLLLLY need to get my headers installed so he can hook it up and figure out what's going on. I'm not going to replace anything expensive but a $2 gasket isn't really a big deal and I don't really have anything better to do than work on my car lol.
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try reseting the tps,maf,and iac all at the same time and see if it helps it works the same as you reset it before.
you can also disconnect the battery for 30 or so min and then unplug all the sensors and turn the key on then wait a min turn the key off plug it all back it and start the car that will make the car relearn the idle.
you can alo try cleaning the maf with the maf cleaner spray.
you can also disconnect the battery for 30 or so min and then unplug all the sensors and turn the key on then wait a min turn the key off plug it all back it and start the car that will make the car relearn the idle.
you can alo try cleaning the maf with the maf cleaner spray.
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My MAF is only about 6mo old so I seriously doubt that's it. Not sure what resetting them all at once will do anything, what's the difference in resetting them all seperately? i can try disconnecting the battery and resetting the PCM I guess.
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Idk whats wrong but i definately feel day to day climate changes the amount it falls on its face and wanting to die.... im going to try and reset everything at once... if that doesnt work imma going to take my intake off and chase down every line and hose and sensor... AND CHECK PLUGS, GROUNDS //// everything lol
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FWIW my car has given me that bank 2 code a couple times when my MAF sensor was just dirty. That's how I learned that sometimes it doesn't take long for that thing to get dirty enough to cause problems. Depending on the environment you drive in it may not even take 6 months. I'd certainly spray some cleaner on it if you haven't for 6 months. That's too long from my experience. Takes 30 seconds and it can't hurt.
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Hi,
you can check the ohms with your voltmeter.
Iac:
d
c
b check across d/c then a/b 40-80 ohms acceptable...........
A
clean tps and replace o-rings........any codes??????????
Remember the engine must relearn idle this will take a few cycles..
Check for vacuum leaks you can borrow a gauge from autoparts store.
Has the throttle body blade been modified should be 5/32 to 15/64.
Lastly a good tune will correct most idle problems...use a reputable tuner to avoid problems.....good luck and have a blessed week.......jim
you can check the ohms with your voltmeter.
Iac:
![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
c
b check across d/c then a/b 40-80 ohms acceptable...........
A
clean tps and replace o-rings........any codes??????????
Remember the engine must relearn idle this will take a few cycles..
Check for vacuum leaks you can borrow a gauge from autoparts store.
Has the throttle body blade been modified should be 5/32 to 15/64.
Lastly a good tune will correct most idle problems...use a reputable tuner to avoid problems.....good luck and have a blessed week.......jim
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Hi,
you can check the ohms with your voltmeter.
Iac:
d
c
b check across d/c then a/b 40-80 ohms acceptable...........
A
clean tps and replace o-rings........any codes??????????
Remember the engine must relearn idle this will take a few cycles..
Check for vacuum leaks you can borrow a gauge from autoparts store.
Has the throttle body blade been modified should be 5/32 to 15/64.
Lastly a good tune will correct most idle problems...use a reputable tuner to avoid problems.....good luck and have a blessed week.......jim
you can check the ohms with your voltmeter.
Iac:
![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
c
b check across d/c then a/b 40-80 ohms acceptable...........
A
clean tps and replace o-rings........any codes??????????
Remember the engine must relearn idle this will take a few cycles..
Check for vacuum leaks you can borrow a gauge from autoparts store.
Has the throttle body blade been modified should be 5/32 to 15/64.
Lastly a good tune will correct most idle problems...use a reputable tuner to avoid problems.....good luck and have a blessed week.......jim
EDIT: cleaning the MAF didn't help. I reset everything at once and still nothing. DAAAAAMMMMMNNNNIIIIIITTTTT
Last edited by 85CamaroZ28; 03-28-2011 at 07:53 PM.
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you guy's still haven't come up with any answers????
my car does the same thing...Idles just fine while in park, but go in reverse coasting it serges, and almost stalls. Come to a stoplight, it serges, but only while coasting with harldly any throttle it feels like it wants to die..rpms get real low..I've checked it all too.
Started last year but it seams to get progressivly worse.
my car does the same thing...Idles just fine while in park, but go in reverse coasting it serges, and almost stalls. Come to a stoplight, it serges, but only while coasting with harldly any throttle it feels like it wants to die..rpms get real low..I've checked it all too.
Started last year but it seams to get progressivly worse.
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just figured mine out...replace the pcv valve and the little 4" hose that connects to the crank or whatever that hose is, had a tiny tiny hole in it..I also took it to my shop where they sprayed a type of white powder over the engine bay to indicate vaccum leaks and that was the only one..no more bogging while coming to a stop...amazing how a pin size hole can effect rpm/runability like it did..
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just figured mine out...replace the pcv valve and the little 4" hose that connects to the crank or whatever that hose is, had a tiny tiny hole in it..I also took it to my shop where they sprayed a type of white powder over the engine bay to indicate vaccum leaks and that was the only one..no more bogging while coming to a stop...amazing how a pin size hole can effect rpm/runability like it did..