So the drivers side power window on my '00 firebird has been driving me absolutely NUTS! It'll ALWAYS roll down fine but sometimes it just stops while going up and won't continue. If you wait for a little while, it'll go a little way then stop again. Wait longer and it'll go up further. This is especially annoying when it's raining! I've heard there's a fix for this but I can't find anything helpful in the search. Any ideas?

 

Mine did the same thing and i would have to push the up button as i pulled it up. My window switch was working fine so i replaced the motor and regulator and it works fine.

 

Well I can't even pull it to help it. My switch works fine. I took it out and tested it and even switched it with the one in my Trans Am. Other than it stopping like this, the motor works good too. The passenger one is slow but doesn't ever freeze up like the driver side one.

 

Just swap out the motor. I did mine the other day it tool me all of 30 minutes. There is a great write up out there on how to do it without taking out the regulator.

 

Im pretty sure its the motor, how did you go about testing the motor, window circuits are pretty simple and it sounds like the motor.

 

I haven't tested the motor, just the switch.

 

yeah its defenitly the motor just swap it out and you will be good, but i think on the driver side if u start drillin into the door to get to the rivets you mite to to brace it the door where u drilled after u get the new motor in or you will have a problem where the window wont go up all the way it will stop like a 3/4" from fully being up and its like only in the corner where mirrow is.

 

You confused the hell outta me! Folks, this is an example of why NOT to drink and post..

Can someone clarify that?? haha I get "replace the motor."

 

you can also add a autotrix window fix to the mix.........they make it for the drivers side also

 

Your motor is dying and you should replace it as soon as possible and NOT operate it. At some point soon it will go down and will not come back up.

This is a classic failure of the thermal cutoff switch inside the motor. The best replacement is to get the new Doorman designed motor from any parts store. (This will have all new parts, has a lifetime warranty, and is supposed to be sealed better to prevent it from going bad.)

BTW - The autotrix kit is not a "fix" to the problem. A bad motor is a bad motor. The autotrix kit will keep bad motors a performing for you for longer.

 

Thanks guys. I'll start shopping around. Hell, it's been doing this since '08.

 

Go to Advanced Auto Parts for a replacement and follow this page step by step:

http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

Set about an hour aside for the job, two hours if you have large hands like myself. Problem solved.

 

My window did the same thing a month ago and I use this thread to repaired mine instead of wasting $63 to replace it and have the same problem re-occur again. I haven't had a problem with it yet.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...placement.html

 

When you get a new motor, its important to do go for the new design Dorman motor. All parts in that are new and the design is improved. If you buy an OEM motor, odds are its rebuilt and may be a flop. (Its common for the rebuilt motors to suck or contain defective/old parts.)

 

One thing for you to keep in mind as you replace the power window motor ..... you'll notice once you've pulled the door panel that the interior door structure is a composite material vice metal. You'll want to use care in removing the rivets holding the motor in place, as you do not want to enlongate those rivet holes. If you goof up and elongate them, or if they are already worn that way .... then you'll have to fab a metal panel to attach to the door structure.

Essentially, if the holes are oval shaped, it will be impossible to get the new motor to line up correctly and you'll never get the window to fit exactly in place in the weatherstripping around the door.

Mine were goofed up and I had to go the metal panel route. You can search on this site and find detailed instructions. Just make sure you take your time and be careful with drilling the rivets out. It is helpful to have someone assist you .... they can hold the window for you. Good luck.

 

Here the tips when u roll the window down, dont let it go all the way down, leave it up a bit, cause it put alot stress on motor to roll it back up.

 

Just bought a 2000 pontiac firebird with 130k miles. Already had to replace the right headlight motor, and now find myself having to replace both window motors as well. The dealer said they replaced the window motors and regulators, but not even one week later, and the windows wont go up all the way. Any suggestions?

 

1) Watch out for the headlight motors. What brand did you get? (I just got some Cardone's which had faulty seals on them.)

2) Resign yourself to the fact that motor replacement is a way of life for these cars. Your dealer probably installed a re-manufactured motor, which are notorious for dying instantly out of the box. If you invest in Dorman design motors and install them with the shbox method, you'll get the most time between motor change intervals. I'd also recommend you take off the door panels and see how your dealer attached the new regulators. If they didn't use the proper GM steel core/aluminum mandrel rivets, you could have other nasty issues down the road...

 

just my two cents....if your window works randomly or partially i would try this before you buy a new window motor..... twist the electrical prongs on the motor ...just remove the harness and twist the prongs slightly....this will ensure a better connection with the motor to harness....my window motor was crapping out on me big time the window would not roll up or down, sometimes for days then i decided to replace the ds motor and i noticed the harness had some movement and the window would move when i hit the up/down switch but it would stop again i figured out that the harness was not making a solid connection....i did the twist mod on the motor and fixed the problem works like new with no problems at all...its been six months and still works perfect. Try it see if it works for you.

 

Good point. The OEM connectors for the motor are tough to get on correctly and make a good connection. I've had the same thing happen after a motor change before and all I had to do was get the connector on tight.