Replacing Steering Column
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Replacing Steering Column So i recently acquired a complete steering column out of another LS1 car, i'm not sure what year though, if that matters.
Right now, my brights switch is broken as well as my clock spring. I was originally just going to replace the broken parts but it seems like it might just be easier to replace the whole thing. Is it as easy as disconnecting the bolts at the firewall, disconnecting the linkage under the hood and reconnecting all connections? I also will need to swap the key cylinder, and replace the air bag. Everything should be plug and play right? Any advice is appreciated.
Right now, my brights switch is broken as well as my clock spring. I was originally just going to replace the broken parts but it seems like it might just be easier to replace the whole thing. Is it as easy as disconnecting the bolts at the firewall, disconnecting the linkage under the hood and reconnecting all connections? I also will need to swap the key cylinder, and replace the air bag. Everything should be plug and play right? Any advice is appreciated.
Depending on the issue with the high beam selector, it may not be easier to replace the column.
For the clock spring, all you need to do is remove the terminals from the connector at the base of the column, tie a string to them and pull the wires up through the column. When you have the new part, you just do the reverse, pulling the wires back through with the string.
The high beams work by a rod going down the column to a switch bolted to the base of the column. If just the switch is bad (and the rod is moving properly when you move the selector) all you have to do is replace the switch after removing the lower IP panel.
For the clock spring, all you need to do is remove the terminals from the connector at the base of the column, tie a string to them and pull the wires up through the column. When you have the new part, you just do the reverse, pulling the wires back through with the string.
The high beams work by a rod going down the column to a switch bolted to the base of the column. If just the switch is bad (and the rod is moving properly when you move the selector) all you have to do is replace the switch after removing the lower IP panel.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Alright i think i have a general idea of what you're talking about. How do i remove the cover on the outside of my steering wheel? And i should let my car sit for 10 minutes after removing the negative, correct? I'll probably try to tackle this this weekend and post anymore questions i have in this thread.
You can't remove the collar on the outside of the steering wheel. If you could, it would be a sinch to steal the car.
This thread has instructions on getting to the parts and other good resources: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html
This thread has instructions on getting to the parts and other good resources: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
I'm confused.
How do you get the steering wheel to look like this is what i'm asking.
Edit: Looks like there is 4 screws in the back of the steering wheel? The thread only says 2.
How do you get the steering wheel to look like this is what i'm asking.
Edit: Looks like there is 4 screws in the back of the steering wheel? The thread only says 2.
Last edited by slikrider20; Jun 29, 2011 at 02:17 PM.
Steps 3 - 10 describe the process to unhook and remove the airbag. Its a dangerous process because one can set off the airbag accidentally. I've described the physical process to unhook everything but don't have the appropriate expertise to advise people on other safety techniques. Physically, the airbag is held in with two captive torx bolts in the back of the steering wheel. The other instructions describe unhooking other portions of the electrical system feeding the airbag. (You'll need to do this anyway to remove the clock spring.)
I'd recommend purchasing any type of repair manual for the car, which should give additional pointers on safety.
I'd recommend purchasing any type of repair manual for the car, which should give additional pointers on safety.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
It seems that if i disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and let everything discharge, disconnect airbag connections at the bottom i should be fine.
I wish i knew more about the high beam switch. Mine goes back and forth but just doesn't lock in place. It's weird because if i angle my steering column it will lock in place. Hopefully it's just the switch at the bottom like you mentioned.
I wish i knew more about the high beam switch. Mine goes back and forth but just doesn't lock in place. It's weird because if i angle my steering column it will lock in place. Hopefully it's just the switch at the bottom like you mentioned.
Trending Topics
It seems that if i disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and let everything discharge, disconnect airbag connections at the bottom i should be fine.
I wish i knew more about the high beam switch. Mine goes back and forth but just doesn't lock in place. It's weird because if i angle my steering column it will lock in place. Hopefully it's just the switch at the bottom like you mentioned.
I wish i knew more about the high beam switch. Mine goes back and forth but just doesn't lock in place. It's weird because if i angle my steering column it will lock in place. Hopefully it's just the switch at the bottom like you mentioned.
- Touch a metal part of the car before you get in to things to discharge yourself.
- Keep you noggin and other body parts away from the bag while you unscrew it. (There are also exhaust ports on the back of the steering wheel that can also burn you if it goes off.)
- When moving and storing the airbag, treat it like a loaded gun, (which it is) keeping it at arms length and putting it in a place where it won't do any damage if it goes off.
The high beam switch is easy. Have someone move it while you look at the rod/switch interface under the dash. That should give you an idea if the problem is with the rod or with the switch.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
I'm attempting to do this today/tomorrow. As far as the high beam, when i move it back and forth it is moving back and forth all the way to the bottom of the dash. It just doesn't lock in place. It seems like the problem would be at the top, maybe a broken piece of plastic i can't see.
Can i rent these parts from an Auto Parts store?
Steering Wheel Lock Plate Compressor
- Steering Wheel Puller and Socket
I'm still confused about the tieing to a string thing. I have a complete column will all the wires, can't i just connect the clockspring to my old wires and not even touch them?
Can i rent these parts from an Auto Parts store?
Steering Wheel Lock Plate Compressor
- Steering Wheel Puller and Socket
I'm still confused about the tieing to a string thing. I have a complete column will all the wires, can't i just connect the clockspring to my old wires and not even touch them?
Last edited by slikrider20; Jul 4, 2011 at 05:27 PM.
The only special tools you need are a steering wheel puller and a lock plate removal tool and you can rent both of those at most auto parts stores.
For the high beams you might want to check where the actual switch is and see if the screws came loose
For the high beams you might want to check where the actual switch is and see if the screws came loose
Yes the pullers can be had from any autoparts store that rents tools. Just ask the guy at the counter to be certain he still has one in the back otherwise your install will have to wait.
As for tying the string, it is just a simple trick to help feed the wire. Get a long enough piece of string and tie it to the end of a wire that is about to be removed. As you remove the wire it will pull the string up the length of the steering shaft. Once the wire is free remove the string and let it dangle while you finish what you are doing. When ready to reinstall just retie the string to the new wire and pull it back through nice and easy.
As for tying the string, it is just a simple trick to help feed the wire. Get a long enough piece of string and tie it to the end of a wire that is about to be removed. As you remove the wire it will pull the string up the length of the steering shaft. Once the wire is free remove the string and let it dangle while you finish what you are doing. When ready to reinstall just retie the string to the new wire and pull it back through nice and easy.
I'm attempting to do this today/tomorrow. As far as the high beam, when i move it back and forth it is moving back and forth all the way to the bottom of the dash. It just doesn't lock in place. It seems like the problem would be at the top, maybe a broken piece of plastic i can't see.
Can i rent these parts from an Auto Parts store?
Steering Wheel Lock Plate Compressor
- Steering Wheel Puller and Socket
I'm still confused about the tieing to a string thing. I have a complete column will all the wires, can't i just connect the clockspring to my old wires and not even touch them?
Can i rent these parts from an Auto Parts store?
Steering Wheel Lock Plate Compressor
- Steering Wheel Puller and Socket
I'm still confused about the tieing to a string thing. I have a complete column will all the wires, can't i just connect the clockspring to my old wires and not even touch them?
If the rod moves at the switch at the base of the column, your problem is the switch and not the rod and connections in the column. The "spring" and "click" and feel of the high beam all happens in the switch bolted to the base of the column.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Ok so i took my whole column completely out (so much easier to see what the heck is going on) And this piece pictured below just fell out. Is it supposed to be connected somehow? If i put it in, and move the high beam lever back and forth, it trys to push OUT, and won't make the clicking sound as it pushes the lever down the column. If i apply pressure on the outside of this piece as the lever pushes down, it will click. It just so happens the other column i acquired this piece fell out too. I don't know if they are both broke or they are both just supposed to fall out. Either way, my brights will not work without me pushing down on this piece to keep it from trying to push down instead of out. I loosed the 2 adjuster bolts by the switch on the bottom all the way up and it still doesn't click. What the ******* ****.
Last edited by slikrider20; Jul 5, 2011 at 04:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
I figured out the high beam switch. It works now.
NOW i'm having problems removing the airbag. In the tutorial it says there is only 2 screws that don't come out. My car has 4? And one of the screws came out, and another one is stripped. Am i missing something or do 98's have 4 screws?
T25 doesn't even seem like it fits right. How are you guys doing it? There's not enough room back there.
NOW i'm having problems removing the airbag. In the tutorial it says there is only 2 screws that don't come out. My car has 4? And one of the screws came out, and another one is stripped. Am i missing something or do 98's have 4 screws?
T25 doesn't even seem like it fits right. How are you guys doing it? There's not enough room back there.
Last edited by slikrider20; Jul 5, 2011 at 06:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
There is definitely 4 bolts. I got the airbag off but now the ******* steering wheel won't come off. I threaded the bolts into the steering wheel evenly, and then i tightened the center bolt exactly like the tutorials i've read says. Once you tighten it to a certain point, it just pulls one of the bolts out. I tightened the 2 bolts tighter and tried tightening the center bolt even more to get it off but just ended up bending the 2 bolts on the sides. Wtf?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Its not coming off. I tightened it as hard as i could and all it does it bend the bolts. It's not moving anywhere. Can i just hammer the god damn thing off? I'm so sick of being held back by one damn thing
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Ok i got the steering wheel off now i'm REALLY stumped. How do you get that clock spring wire pulled back up through the column? It has that bulky connecter at the bottom and there is no way its going to slide up without breaking off.
