**Changed my differential oil today... PICS
08-14-2011, 06:01 AM
#21
Do your wallet a huge favor and dump that Mobil synthetic PATHETIC oil and get some PLAIN jane regular gear oil and put it in there. I know your mind is saying but M1 gear oil is fantastic and its great and mobil advertises the **** outta it and everyone swears by it..............trust me on this GET RID of it. The tiny bearings in your rear that have to deal with the HP load of the LS1 engine are going to be very unhappy with m1 joke oil. They are going to reward you with a huge repair bill in about 20k miles.
08-14-2011, 10:37 AM
#23
That's an interesting point. The Mobil-1 75W-90 I've been using already has LS additive mixed in, so I may be benefitting from it without realizing it.
With that said, I've run RedLine Lightweight Shockproof lube for years and it has no LS additive. No noise with that stuff. Only reason I switched was an emergency refill and the only stores open on Sunday were the chain stores.
Speaking of which, if you haven't checked your diff vent to ensure it's clean and functional in a few years, that's a good idea...
With that said, I've run RedLine Lightweight Shockproof lube for years and it has no LS additive. No noise with that stuff. Only reason I switched was an emergency refill and the only stores open on Sunday were the chain stores.
Speaking of which, if you haven't checked your diff vent to ensure it's clean and functional in a few years, that's a good idea...
08-14-2011, 10:42 AM
#24
Do your wallet a huge favor and dump that Mobil synthetic PATHETIC oil and get some PLAIN jane regular gear oil and put it in there. I know your mind is saying but M1 gear oil is fantastic and its great and mobil advertises the **** outta it and everyone swears by it..............trust me on this GET RID of it. The tiny bearings in your rear that have to deal with the HP load of the LS1 engine are going to be very unhappy with m1 joke oil. They are going to reward you with a huge repair bill in about 20k miles.
Per my earlier post I'm running a fill of their 75W-90 and things are as quiet as ever. I'll be draining it before I hit the road course in Sept/Oct and going back to RedLine, of course.
Their 75W-140 lube is up to $19 per quart, more than RedLine or Amsoil which are top-shelf stuff. No thanks.
08-14-2011, 10:51 AM
#25
I'm about to change my oil in the rear too. My car is a tick under 80k miles and I have never changed it in the two years I have owned it. I'm starting to get some noise so I think an oil change is in order. Did you have to remove your sway bars or anything to get to the cover?
08-14-2011, 03:49 PM
#27
I'm not a Mobil-1 fanboy, but I'm hoping you'll post some data to support your claim.
Per my earlier post I'm running a fill of their 75W-90 and things are as quiet as ever. I'll be draining it before I hit the road course in Sept/Oct and going back to RedLine, of course.
Their 75W-140 lube is up to $19 per quart, more than RedLine or Amsoil which are top-shelf stuff. No thanks.
Per my earlier post I'm running a fill of their 75W-90 and things are as quiet as ever. I'll be draining it before I hit the road course in Sept/Oct and going back to RedLine, of course.
Their 75W-140 lube is up to $19 per quart, more than RedLine or Amsoil which are top-shelf stuff. No thanks.
Do a little test...dump a little M1 gear oil on something then try wiping it off with a rag or paper towel, then try the same with plain jane good old regular gear oil. Report back.
08-14-2011, 04:11 PM
#28
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Do your wallet a huge favor and dump that Mobil synthetic PATHETIC oil and get some PLAIN jane regular gear oil and put it in there. I know your mind is saying but M1 gear oil is fantastic and its great and mobil advertises the **** outta it and everyone swears by it..............trust me on this GET RID of it. The tiny bearings in your rear that have to deal with the HP load of the LS1 engine are going to be very unhappy with m1 joke oil. They are going to reward you with a huge repair bill in about 20k miles.
Everything is Silky smooth.
08-14-2011, 04:19 PM
#29
X2 on the above. I've stayed away from Mobil 1 lubes forever. In the early days of synthetics, they were the only game and the stuff was better.
When it comes to rear end lubes that won't be replaced for a long time, I'd reach for any good quality non synthetic. Torco makes a nice RGO dino juice based lube, if you can find it.
Some somewhat related info: If you have a Eaton limited slip differential, you CAN NOT use a synthetic lube.
When it comes to rear end lubes that won't be replaced for a long time, I'd reach for any good quality non synthetic. Torco makes a nice RGO dino juice based lube, if you can find it.
Some somewhat related info: If you have a Eaton limited slip differential, you CAN NOT use a synthetic lube.
08-14-2011, 05:02 PM
#30
08-14-2011, 05:22 PM
#31
I've rebuilt a few 100 rears.....trust me stay the hell away from M1 synthetic and honestly I've had the best luck with plain old standard gear oil. Syntheics might be high tech and make you feel like you did something good but they are CRAP!. I've had lots and lots of carrier bearings fail using syhthetic gear oil. Premature wear etc..... nothing goes in my rear end except plain old gear oil. My fav is Shell Rotella.
Which is why I like RedLine stuff. Stands up to hard use on road courses, very sticky also.
08-14-2011, 06:54 PM
#32
Did this a few weeks ago and took about 30 minutes, super easy and straight forward.
There is literally horror stories about every kind of diff fluid out there, but in reality, use whatever you want and you will probably be fine. I did a lot of reading and research and this is the consensus of what I read:
-Royal purple has been blamed for a few rear end failures (may or may not be legitimate?)
-People bitch about mobil1, but usually dont have a reason
-No matter what you do, or what fluids you use, someone on tech will tell you you're an idiot.
There is literally horror stories about every kind of diff fluid out there, but in reality, use whatever you want and you will probably be fine. I did a lot of reading and research and this is the consensus of what I read:
-Royal purple has been blamed for a few rear end failures (may or may not be legitimate?)
-People bitch about mobil1, but usually dont have a reason
-No matter what you do, or what fluids you use, someone on tech will tell you you're an idiot.
08-14-2011, 09:36 PM
#33
Did this a few weeks ago and took about 30 minutes, super easy and straight forward.
There is literally horror stories about every kind of diff fluid out there, but in reality, use whatever you want and you will probably be fine. I did a lot of reading and research and this is the consensus of what I read:
-Royal purple has been blamed for a few rear end failures (may or may not be legitimate?)
-People bitch about mobil1, but usually dont have a reason
-No matter what you do, or what fluids you use, someone on tech will tell you you're an idiot.
There is literally horror stories about every kind of diff fluid out there, but in reality, use whatever you want and you will probably be fine. I did a lot of reading and research and this is the consensus of what I read:
-Royal purple has been blamed for a few rear end failures (may or may not be legitimate?)
-People bitch about mobil1, but usually dont have a reason
-No matter what you do, or what fluids you use, someone on tech will tell you you're an idiot.
If you're that set on using M1 at least buy the 140 weight, at least that has extra moly but its WAY over priced.
08-16-2011, 01:27 AM
#34
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I'm about to change my oil in the rear too. My car is a tick under 80k miles and I have never changed it in the two years I have owned it. I'm starting to get some noise so I think an oil change is in order. Did you have to remove your sway bars or anything to get to the cover?
here is a helpful step by step.........
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/lubeoil.htm
scroll to middle
08-16-2011, 01:35 AM
#35
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Damn I had no idea that mobil 1 was no good.
I do agree with mastertomos however that for every single product out there, there will be atleast ten people who tell you that it is no good.
But since 02FORM has rebuilt a lot of rear ends, his advice is hard to ignore lol
Its just hard to go against what my manual says, it says synthetic gear oil and lsd additive.
I don't know now, maybe next summer ill just switch to dino oil, but then I won't be following the manual recommendation....
So 02FORM, is it just M1 synthetic that is "garbage"? or all synthetics?1
I do agree with mastertomos however that for every single product out there, there will be atleast ten people who tell you that it is no good.
But since 02FORM has rebuilt a lot of rear ends, his advice is hard to ignore lol
Its just hard to go against what my manual says, it says synthetic gear oil and lsd additive.
I don't know now, maybe next summer ill just switch to dino oil, but then I won't be following the manual recommendation....
So 02FORM, is it just M1 synthetic that is "garbage"? or all synthetics?1
08-16-2011, 07:14 AM
#36
The light weight M1 is the worst, the heavier 140 weight is ok BUT It wooooodn't go in my rear. Let me explain something to you all, synthetic oils are for FUEL MILEAGE! not for saving wearing and tear on your vehicle. On paper they look good but in the real world even the CHEAPEST regular gear oil will protect better than most synthetics. Amsoil is one of the best and i've tested it in some rears...............I don't use it. Like I said before my fav rear oil is Rotella or Redline regular gear oil. I've trried some synthetic blends but my experience is synthetic oil tend to be very thin and the result is noise and leaky weeping pinion seals and in the lite weight 10 bolt our fbodies use WORN CARRIER BEARINGS. Those bearings in our rears take a beating, you must use a heavy gear oil.
Synthetics claim to fame is higher temps and fuel mileage. Let me ask you when the last time your rear was at over 400 degrees? What they don't tell you is your rear needs oil that clings to everything and stays put. It aint NEVER gonna get hot ever enough to cook regular gear oil.
Trust me on this, if you use the 75-90 M1 in your rear you will be changing the carrier bearings in time. I've seen them worn badly after as little as 20k miles using 75-90 M1. I know of a guy that bought a brand new Ford truck, 1st thing he did was change both rears to 75-140 M1 at 75k BOTH REARS NEEDED CARRIER BEARINGS!. They were wasted!
Do my test, dump some gear oil on something and try wiping it off with a rag. If it wipes off easily buy something else. Good gear oil stays where its put.
Synthetics claim to fame is higher temps and fuel mileage. Let me ask you when the last time your rear was at over 400 degrees? What they don't tell you is your rear needs oil that clings to everything and stays put. It aint NEVER gonna get hot ever enough to cook regular gear oil.
Trust me on this, if you use the 75-90 M1 in your rear you will be changing the carrier bearings in time. I've seen them worn badly after as little as 20k miles using 75-90 M1. I know of a guy that bought a brand new Ford truck, 1st thing he did was change both rears to 75-140 M1 at 75k BOTH REARS NEEDED CARRIER BEARINGS!. They were wasted!
Do my test, dump some gear oil on something and try wiping it off with a rag. If it wipes off easily buy something else. Good gear oil stays where its put.
08-16-2011, 08:04 AM
#38
Where's the "like" button for O2form's post? OH WAIT, here it is: 
O2, I wasn't able to find a non-synthetic gear lube on Redline's website. Because of this, I was considering the one Lucas non-synth lube. Which Redline lube is their non-synthetic?
Over the years, I've known about "climbing gears oils". Schaffers has one but it's a synthetic. Has anybody tried the Moroso straight 90 weight climbing gear oil?
I'm running an Eaton posi and a synthetic lube CANNOT be used. But everybody already knew that, right?
O2, I wasn't able to find a non-synthetic gear lube on Redline's website. Because of this, I was considering the one Lucas non-synth lube. Which Redline lube is their non-synthetic?
Over the years, I've known about "climbing gears oils". Schaffers has one but it's a synthetic. Has anybody tried the Moroso straight 90 weight climbing gear oil?
I'm running an Eaton posi and a synthetic lube CANNOT be used. But everybody already knew that, right?
Last edited by Paul Bell; 08-16-2011 at 08:44 AM.
08-16-2011, 08:30 AM
#40
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Not to hijack the thread but I am not sure if my car has an auburn or torsen rear. I should probably change the diff fluid because while the car only has 22,700 miles on it its probably never been changed since the original stuff was put in back in '99 and I'd like to know what kind of fluid I would need. Is there a code on the door sticker which would reveal what kind of differential the car has or is the only option to open it up and took?
I know the code for the gear ratio is GU2 - 2.73's, not that that really matters but is there a code like that for the rear diff?
Want to make sure I get the right kind of oil to protect my investment
I know the code for the gear ratio is GU2 - 2.73's, not that that really matters but is there a code like that for the rear diff?
Want to make sure I get the right kind of oil to protect my investment