777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

I just recently did an oil change on my 99 WS6, with synthetic oil.

However.. I just read in the owner's manual that it should not be run on synthetic oil when below 0 degrees Fahrenheit........
(I live in Utah where it will be hitting 0-10ish degrees in the next month or so).

Should I swap it out for conventional oil?
Or just run the car daily to keep that Antifreeze movin?
((First Winter I've had this car))

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

Are you sure about that? Especially since synthetic is better than conventional at temperature extremes.

What I see in the motor oil section are a few very specific recommendations regarding oil viscosity and temperature:

Notice 5W30 synthetic is specifically recommended for below -20*F.

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

What owners manual are you reading this from?

777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

Haha I decided to go take a look at my Owner's Manual on my lunch break and... You guys are right. I'm just an idiot who misread the owner's manual... >_<

Well! You guys have definitely saved me some headache.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Never....ever...use synthetic oil. Seriously.

Problem solved.



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HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

Don't see how it solves the problem when it is recommended in temp extremes.

Synthetic is better than conventional. Better base, better VII, better additive packs. It isn't magic but it is better.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I don't see how its better when me and maybe 20 other guys all got our street driven stroker engines installed around the same time in 2002......I'm the only one with 165,000+ miles on my 427ci.....almost all of them had to pull theirs for rebuilds way before 100,000 miles. They pretty much ALL use synthetic oils....

I have used non-synthetic, cheap ***, Castrol GTX 20w50 since day one with my 427ci.

To me....thats some real life proof that synthetic oil does NOTHING more for an engine. Same types of strokers (408ci's - 440ci's), all down here in South Florida, driven daily, no drag racing, just street cars. Same-Same. A few were sprayed, but most were N/A.
I run into allot of these people still today, 5-6 years after their engines have been pulled out, blown up or rebuilt.....they simply do not believe I still have my original 427ci in it from 2002. I love it............

3,000 mile filter and oil changes......is ALL anyone can do for engine longevity.



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LS1121

iTrader: (17)

My 98 Z28 Now has 285,000 miles and has had Mobil1 every oil change out of the Factory. So what does that prove? It proves I take care of my car. If you Beat the **** out of your car...it won't last no matter what oil you put in it.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I beat the **** outta my car every day, for almost 10 years with my 427ci, its my only car. It sees top end runs every week and WOT runs every day.
Thats cool you got that many miles...is it stock or built? Stock its expected to go a shitload of miles, built engines.......no way......lucky to get 50,000 miles without issues.

Its all about clean oil....3,000 mile changes is the key, nothing else.

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MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

What you seem to be missing here is the weather variable - in places outside of south Florida, temperature variations happen, and there are times in this neck of the woods where temps in the winter drop well below zero, and that's where synthetic oils really shine. Saying they aren't necessary may be true in your particular case, but applying that universally to everyone is flawed logic, and is why you are getting push-back. Cold temperatures are a very big something else that really does matter.

Don't believe me? Put a sample of the exact oil you use in a small container and let it sit in the freezer overnight. I think you might be surprised what you find in the morning.

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

I don't see why a "built" motor shouldn't last as long as a factory motor if it is built correctly. Sure if you screw up putting it together and or run a ridiculous oil in it then it won't last as long.

If someone wants to believe that synthetic isn't worth the cost premium over conventional that is one thing, and perhaps it has some truth to it. But if you take the time to actually learn about the chemistry then the fact of the matter is everything I stated above. They get better base stocks which have better viscosity indexes... meaning more flow cold and less thinning out hot. Since the base stocks are better they can run less Viscosity Index Improvers, which means the curve will remain more consistent over time. Since they are positioned as "premium" products, they get the best additive packs. Additive packs go a long way towards actually preventing wear and keeping the motor clean.

It's really not much different than trying to claim a Corvette isn't better than a Camaro. I suppose if you only drive the speed limit they are similar. But if you compare them to their potential the Corvette wins, and is also why many pay the extra money for them.

RamAirRocket

iTrader: (1)

I think it has more to do with the conditions. If you see excessively high oil temps (why GM eliminated the leaky coolers on the Vette and went with synthetic), then synthetic is better, if not, dino oil is fine. And synthetic is proven to be thinner at cold temps (another reason GM went with synthetic in the Vette) than dino oil. So all depends on what you are doing with it.

But modern engine oil is pretty good stuff these days. Keep it clean and don't burn it with hot temps.... If it is black, then find out why.

777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

Yeah the main issue where I live is definitely the temp... Its now to the point where it'll be like 30F Degrees during the day with the sun out. - With middle of the night almost hitting 15ish.

I imagine that just regularly changing the oil and general maintenance would keep the engine running not based on oil type..?

RamAirRocket

iTrader: (1)

Yup, as long as the oil meets or exceeds the needs of the engine, you are golden.

If you are towing or racing, or other heavy duty use where high loads (aka, high ring temps), then I would lean heavily on synthetic and an oil with high shear (HTHC), probably 4 or higher, something like that the european cars are spec'd for. Assuming you don't have really small bearing clearances where the thicker oil (xW40 or xW50 and up) are going to cause a high drag unless they are at very high temps.