jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

My car (2000 Camaro Z28, M6) is not starting, although all dash lights illuminate and function correctly when key is turned to ON. When turned to START, lights go off as usual, but there is no hint of the starter kicking in or anything. No clicks, no grinds, nothing.

The security light is not staying on OR flashing. It comes on with other dash lights when key is first turned, but goes off shortly after.

The car has attempted to start twice in about 200 attempts. After one time, it ran fine. The second time, the engine immediately lost momentum and shut off as if it lost spark.

I've tapped the starter with a hammer while someone was trying to start it, with no luck. I do not have a voltmeter to check power at any point. I've switched fan relays with the ignition and starter relays. I've checked all fuses. I've cleaned surfaces of the keys, including the chips on both sets of keys. Nada.

So...which is it...the switch or the cylinder? Part of me thinks its a bad connection in the cylinder, since it has attempted to start twice. If the switch were bad, I figured it would NEVER attempt to start again. However, if its just a bad connection in the wiring within the cylinder that reads the chips on the keys, why is my security light not lit or flashing?

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

First check for the signal at the starter relay, If you have it there then your ignition switch is fine, If the signal is there and relay is good, its the starter. If you dont have the signal, at the relay, check your wires, The ignition switch is gonna be the culprit, the cylinder is a mechanical actuator and is really not prone to fail as far as not engaging the switch.
HOWEVER,, You are a six speed car, You really need to have a look at your clutch switch, and make sure it is working, If it is not, you will not get the signal to the starter relay, as it goes thru the clutch switch. Hope this helps.

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

Forgot to mention I've fumbled with the three switches at the pedals. I put wire into both pins for the clutch switch to bypass it. Still got nothing happening there. I'll call some friends to try to get a voltmeter. I'm usually by myself, so I don't have anyone who can start the car while I'm at the fusebox checking voltage (or at the starter for that matter). If I hook a voltmeter to the pins for the clutch safety switch, I should get 12V correct? And if I get a voltage there then the ignition switch is functioning, right? Or does the ignition switch send signals to other areas that must be checked too?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like a dead battery or bad battery connection. How old is yours?

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

About three weeks, but I had it replaced when some electrical problems were starting, so maybe it wasn't bad after all.

I've almost completed an install of a new ignition switch. I'm not sure HOW some people are able to do this without removing the steering column per shbox's instructional page. It's been pretty smooth so far... hopefully this solves the problem!

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

No dice on the switch replacement... gahhh. I'll take the starter to get tested. If its not that then I guess I'll try the cylinder lock next....

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

You really need to take RaRon's advice here. I see so many times people wasting money on parts they don't need. A simple $5 test light from Harbor Freight or somewhere would have shown you have power at the starter relay. Just because you tapped on the starter and it didn't start doesn't mean the starter isn't bad. Like he said, test for power at the starter relay. If no power there you have an issue with the clutch safety switch more than likely. If you have it there you can narrow it down to either wiring to the starter or the starter itself. But more than likely you just have a bad starter.

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

Starter is good, took it to the parts store today to test. I'll be examining the wiring for the starter tomorrow...I saw that people with long tube headers sometimes have heat melt the wiring to the starter, which may be what has happened...

I8AGT

iTrader: (7)

It will be your lock cylinder. I had to have it replaced on my Trans Am. There are two little wires on it that will break and you can either solder them or get a new one. A new one is around 120.00 through GM

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

Are these the same symptoms your TA had when you replaced it? Was your security light on? I figured if those wires were not reading the resistance, it would trip the security light. My light is not on, so I figured the cylinder was fine. Did you solder the wires or get a new one? (I would assume you'd need new keys with it...)

Also, just put the starter back in, and was reconnecting the battery. The engine cranks for about a half second and then the ground lead came loose because I jumped (not expecting that!!)... Reconnected battery and never had it do it again. Still same symptoms...

So, ruled out the starter, and ruled out the ignition switch. Lock cylinder is looking more and more like the problem...anybody agree? When I get some folks over here I'll have them try to start it while I test the power at the relay. If the lock cylinder were bad though, would the relay even GET power?? I feel like I hear it clicking when I try to start the car.

aaron564

ok it sounds just like my Firebird did and turns out the wiring into the relay switch was not working properly it was grounding out some where so what we did was re run the wiring and added a pushbutton start

aaron564

If you would like a video on how i fixed what sounds like the same issue on my firebird pm me ill send a video

jmmullin

iTrader: (2)

For the sake of continuity, I'll summarize the end of my problems. My brother came over and I was finally able to test voltage at the starter wires. The constant 12V wire directly from the battery read 12V, and when cranked (or when the relay was jumped and the ignition turned to ON), the other power wire read 12V as well. So, the starter was getting 12V and 12V all along. Took the starter to a DIFFERENT advance auto, and it failed all the tests.

Purchased a new starter, and problem was solved. Just don't know why the first auto store said the starter was good...I even saw it run on their machine, so there were no indications the starter was bad. Just a strange situation! Thanks for all the guidance everyone!