Ignition cylinder or ignition switch?
Ignition cylinder or ignition switch? My car (2000 Camaro Z28, M6) is not starting, although all dash lights illuminate and function correctly when key is turned to ON. When turned to START, lights go off as usual, but there is no hint of the starter kicking in or anything. No clicks, no grinds, nothing.
The security light is not staying on OR flashing. It comes on with other dash lights when key is first turned, but goes off shortly after.
The car has attempted to start twice in about 200 attempts. After one time, it ran fine. The second time, the engine immediately lost momentum and shut off as if it lost spark.
I've tapped the starter with a hammer while someone was trying to start it, with no luck. I do not have a voltmeter to check power at any point. I've switched fan relays with the ignition and starter relays. I've checked all fuses. I've cleaned surfaces of the keys, including the chips on both sets of keys. Nada.
So...which is it...the switch or the cylinder? Part of me thinks its a bad connection in the cylinder, since it has attempted to start twice. If the switch were bad, I figured it would NEVER attempt to start again. However, if its just a bad connection in the wiring within the cylinder that reads the chips on the keys, why is my security light not lit or flashing?
The security light is not staying on OR flashing. It comes on with other dash lights when key is first turned, but goes off shortly after.
The car has attempted to start twice in about 200 attempts. After one time, it ran fine. The second time, the engine immediately lost momentum and shut off as if it lost spark.
I've tapped the starter with a hammer while someone was trying to start it, with no luck. I do not have a voltmeter to check power at any point. I've switched fan relays with the ignition and starter relays. I've checked all fuses. I've cleaned surfaces of the keys, including the chips on both sets of keys. Nada.
So...which is it...the switch or the cylinder? Part of me thinks its a bad connection in the cylinder, since it has attempted to start twice. If the switch were bad, I figured it would NEVER attempt to start again. However, if its just a bad connection in the wiring within the cylinder that reads the chips on the keys, why is my security light not lit or flashing?
First check for the signal at the starter relay, If you have it there then your ignition switch is fine, If the signal is there and relay is good, its the starter. If you dont have the signal, at the relay, check your wires, The ignition switch is gonna be the culprit, the cylinder is a mechanical actuator and is really not prone to fail as far as not engaging the switch.
HOWEVER,, You are a six speed car, You really need to have a look at your clutch switch, and make sure it is working, If it is not, you will not get the signal to the starter relay, as it goes thru the clutch switch. Hope this helps.
HOWEVER,, You are a six speed car, You really need to have a look at your clutch switch, and make sure it is working, If it is not, you will not get the signal to the starter relay, as it goes thru the clutch switch. Hope this helps.
First check for the signal at the starter relay, If you have it there then your ignition switch is fine, If the signal is there and relay is good, its the starter. If you dont have the signal, at the relay, check your wires, The ignition switch is gonna be the culprit, the cylinder is a mechanical actuator and is really not prone to fail as far as not engaging the switch.
HOWEVER,, You are a six speed car, You really need to have a look at your clutch switch, and make sure it is working, If it is not, you will not get the signal to the starter relay, as it goes thru the clutch switch. Hope this helps.
HOWEVER,, You are a six speed car, You really need to have a look at your clutch switch, and make sure it is working, If it is not, you will not get the signal to the starter relay, as it goes thru the clutch switch. Hope this helps.
I've almost completed an install of a new ignition switch. I'm not sure HOW some people are able to do this without removing the steering column per shbox's instructional page. It's been pretty smooth so far... hopefully this solves the problem!
You really need to take RaRon's advice here. I see so many times people wasting money on parts they don't need. A simple $5 test light from Harbor Freight or somewhere would have shown you have power at the starter relay. Just because you tapped on the starter and it didn't start doesn't mean the starter isn't bad. Like he said, test for power at the starter relay. If no power there you have an issue with the clutch safety switch more than likely. If you have it there you can narrow it down to either wiring to the starter or the starter itself. But more than likely you just have a bad starter.
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Starter is good, took it to the parts store today to test. I'll be examining the wiring for the starter tomorrow...I saw that people with long tube headers sometimes have heat melt the wiring to the starter, which may be what has happened...
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It will be your lock cylinder. I had to have it replaced on my Trans Am. There are two little wires on it that will break and you can either solder them or get a new one. A new one is around 120.00 through GM
Also, just put the starter back in, and was reconnecting the battery. The engine cranks for about a half second and then the ground lead came loose because I jumped (not expecting that!!)... Reconnected battery and never had it do it again. Still same symptoms...
So, ruled out the starter, and ruled out the ignition switch. Lock cylinder is looking more and more like the problem...anybody agree? When I get some folks over here I'll have them try to start it while I test the power at the relay. If the lock cylinder were bad though, would the relay even GET power?? I feel like I hear it clicking when I try to start the car.
For the sake of continuity, I'll summarize the end of my problems. My brother came over and I was finally able to test voltage at the starter wires. The constant 12V wire directly from the battery read 12V, and when cranked (or when the relay was jumped and the ignition turned to ON), the other power wire read 12V as well. So, the starter was getting 12V and 12V all along. Took the starter to a DIFFERENT advance auto, and it failed all the tests.
Purchased a new starter, and problem was solved. Just don't know why the first auto store said the starter was good...I even saw it run on their machine, so there were no indications the starter was bad. Just a strange situation! Thanks for all the guidance everyone!
Purchased a new starter, and problem was solved. Just don't know why the first auto store said the starter was good...I even saw it run on their machine, so there were no indications the starter was bad. Just a strange situation! Thanks for all the guidance everyone!
