Master_TA

Hello, first off I want to say, I have done research and have found answers about this topic, but wanted to get a little more.

I have an 02 Ws.6 and live in Texas and so we have HOT summers and semi cold winters. So would I be better off using 10w30 instead of the rec. 5w30?
Or would 0w30 work even better?
Also I know everyone has there own choice on the brand of oil they use but which one "seems" to be the most used brand and that doesn't consume a lot of oil between oil changes the best?

I've heard all these are the top brands, Mobile1,Penzoil,Castol,and the oh so "famous" royal purple.

BrianSF-GA

Daily driver, weekend car, occasional street car or drag car? Stock or modded?

Hers is a thread I started a while back for my specific application ... https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...te-engine.html

I decided on Valvoline VR1 Racing Conventional Oil, straight 30w (higher levels of ZDDP) with a very good filter .... I run Wix. Much larger flow holes than the others.

Master_TA

DD and has KN intake and magnaflow exhaust. I drive normal and wot just like everyone. so would 5w30,10w30 or 0w30 work best in Texas

BrianSF-GA

Since it is mostly stock and a DD, stick with the manufacturer's recommendation (see your owner's manual) ... 5w30 for above 0 degrees F.

Master_TA

ok thanks brother

BrianSF-GA

no problem.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

I recommend you research lubrication topics regarding viscosity and applications at places such as machinerylubrication and lubes&greases magazine. there is also the book fundamentals of machinery lubrication, which states the most important and fundamental characteristic of a lubricating fluid is its viscosity. And viscosity is dependent on temperature. You need to have a lube having viscosity within a certain range, there is an ideal range and an acceptable range for every lubrication application, this has not changed and will never change unless the laws of physics and chemistry change. And you can also debate what ideal is- ideal frictional/pumping/parasitic losses or ideal wear protection. Fact is higher temperatures causes viscosity to lower (oil thins) and lower temps = higher viscosity (thicker oil) and either of those can push you away from an ideal lubrication condition. So if you know what temperature range your lube will operate in, and you understand what ideal conditions you want, then you would know what viscosity oil to choose. This is all independent of additives in the oil, specifically ZDDP which is an anti-wear additive; the definition of which is to prevent metal to metal contact which happens under boundary lubrication: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/states-of-lubrication/. Point of this is, if you are relying on zddp for protection then you have a lubrication problem and that cause can be a few things- two of them being (a) lower than acceptable viscosity due to high oil temperature and the oil film does not stay between contacting surfaces, or (b) higher than acceptable viscosity and the oil is too thick to either be pumped into contacting surfaces or it will not flow into them by splash lubrication or drainage.
That should lead you to ask, knowing what my oil temperature will be what is the minimum and maximum viscosity for my application that will keep everything in the state of hydrodynamic lubrication as much of the time as possible.

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

bobistheoilguy is an interesting place to visit to read about oil, that is a good suggestion.

ZDDP is by all means not the only antiwear additive out there though, and in most street formulations is limited since it is toxic to catalytic converters. Only mentioning this if you decided to try comparing ZDDP content in oils. Molybdenum and boron compounds are used pretty frequently.

Travu25

the 5w 10w and 0w is the point where the oil freezes see I run 10w-30 because there is no way in hell it's going to get 10 degrees here.