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Dirty Air Check Valves

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Old 03-20-2012, 03:09 AM
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Default Dirty Air Check Valves

Ok, so, for the past 9 months or so, every 3 months or so, I keep getting Check Engine light codes for my Air Check Valves. When I take them off they're hella dirty with residue. I replace them and the codes go away. Only to come back a few months later. Again, the valves are really dirty. This all started around last May (2011). For months before/after I had not made any mods to the engine/exhaust. What could be causing this? What can I do to find out the problem? Would a catch can help any?
Old 03-20-2012, 12:31 PM
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What codes exactly? The valves are exposed to exhaust on one side, they get dirty pretty quick regardless. And no a catch can would have no effect.
Old 03-20-2012, 06:31 PM
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One of the codes was P1416; Sensor 2 (Bank 2).
The other 2 were Sensor 1 (Bank 1) and Sensor 1 (Bank 2).

It's the Sensor 1 (Banks 1 and 2) that keep failing.

Is there something that I need to look into? I've have the car since 2001 and it wasn't until last May that these sensors started failing.
Old 03-20-2012, 06:55 PM
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Well I don't know how that code works exactly but my guess is it uses the O2 sensors to see if the AIR is working, so if it doesn't see a shot of O2 on startup it gives the code. So do you even hear the pump sound? It lasts like 30 seconds after cold start, pretty loud. You should check the relay on the driver's side (near the fuel rail), and the small vac lines from it to the back of the intake, and to the big vacuum switch (thing that looks like a ufo way in back).
Old 03-20-2012, 10:57 PM
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are you talking about the vaccum canister? i think you can buy filters for them
Old 03-20-2012, 11:21 PM
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what mods have you done?
How's your idle, is it smooth and steady?
Are you running any fuel additives?

for the air check valves to get dirty, it would be from the exhaust directly off the exhaust manifold. That's before the catalytic converter and O2 sensors. off the top of my head can the car be running overly rich at times causing extra hydrocarbon in the exhaust? Are you burning any oil? Are there any signs of oil burning, can you check the spark plugs? If the plugs are not a clean tan color then that would tend to indicate a non-ideal A/F. If the engine ran lean, I don't think that would cause the check valves to fail other than by overheating them and i would think you'd have other engine codes showing an overall lean condition.
I have a 2002 and last year i would have a slightt rotten egg smell when pulling in/out of my garage, never had a check engine light and engine ran great, replaced both front O2 sensors and that seems to have fixed that.
Old 03-21-2012, 03:10 AM
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I haven't done any mods to the engine fir the better part of 3 years. The car idles beautifully. Every 2 or 3 (3500-6500 miles) oil changes, I add fuel injector cleaner.

Check engine light turned off this afternoon. I'll be checking the air pump in the morning, and keeping an eye out for then next time the light goes on. Thanks guys!
Old 03-23-2012, 05:06 AM
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I've replaced both on my Silverado and one on the SS, they both run the same style of valve. Not sure what makes them go out but Autozone has them for about $13 so it's not too bad.
Old 03-23-2012, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by fspeedster
I've replaced both on my Silverado and one on the SS, they both run the same style of valve. Not sure what makes them go out but Autozone has them for about $13 so it's not too bad.
Do those fit in the hoses pretty well? I got mine somewhere else (not dealer), I think they cost a lot more and the hose end was too small.
Old 03-23-2012, 12:35 PM
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I got mine from autozone, $11 each, they fit no problem. I recommend using some antisieze on the threads of the new valve.

GP sorenson valve, duralast #E204, oem #779-2929
current autozone part number = 555050, "air pump check valve"
Old 03-23-2012, 04:04 PM
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^^^^^



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