On April 14th I swapped out my Pacesetter LT's and LS6 intake (EGR). I put in brand new QTP LT headers and my LS6 intake from my 02 Z28. I got rid of the AIR/EGR on my car and during this install I broke the wire that plugs in to the alternator. I rewired it and soldered the wire together. Well, this is where my problems started!

I fired up my car and drove it around for a while, but I noticed my temperature gauge wasn't working. I checked the sensor on the drivers side head and checked the connection. Everything appeared to be fine, but problems still occurred. Keep in mind that this sensor was 1.5 months old prior to doing this swap and it worked perfectly fine AND I replaced this sensor again a few weeks after this install. That makes it 2 new sensors, but still the same problems. So the next day I drove it around and the temperature gauge started to work again.

After my car is warm and driving a bit my temperature gauge will fluctuate erratically and while this happens my car starts to bog really bad and sometimes when this happens my temperature gauge will go all the way to 0 and the car stops bogging. Sometimes the gauge even goes past normal operating temps. I have no idea what it could be and I even took it to Nick at Newtech to check my tune, but everything was good. He said deleting my AIR/EGR wouldn't cause these problems.

I kinda think that MAYBE it's my alarm and the wiring, but I've had my Viper alarm installed last summer so why would these malfunctions happen now? I checked the grounds for the alternator and starter, but still can't figure out the problem.

So, yesterday I decide to start my car since it has been sitting for about 3 weeks. My car was dead and while trying to fire it up it just clicked repeatedly. I installed a new alternator yesterday and today, same problem. My battery was purchased in March too so I doubt that could be my starting problem. Do you think it could be my starter? When trying to start my car my security light comes on and it won't turn over at all unless my security light turns off. So I basically have 2 major problems that's really annoying me.

My friend said my coolant temperature gauge problem could be due to having air bubbles in my coolant system. I was going to bleed it today, but my car wouldn't start so I was pissed and just left it alone. What are my options here? What would you guys do? So I take it to Synergy to see if they can find the culprit? My last option for the temperature gauge is to bleed the system, but if that doesn't work then I don't know...

 

Could be a faulty sensor even though it has been replaced. It's highly unlikely air in the system would cause the gauge to read that way. I would replace the sensor with a new or known working sensor just to eliminate that.

 

1.the sensor being fucked up is y the car runs bad. your coolant sensor controls timing afr's all kinds of stuff even open and closed loop.
2.the prob sounds like you pinched your wire to the coolant sensor just like your aletenator wire find the pin in the ecu and put a new wire in place for now to the sensor see if it fixes it.
3. aftermarket alarm systems are garbage dont matter the brand. they will **** up and will give you problems at some point maybe 1 day maybe 10 years. unless you put it in your self and spent the days of doing it truely correct the electical tape will fall off and ground **** out
4. any electornic car that you leave sitting for 3 weeks at a time wont start cause the ecu draws power when the car is off

 

My engine in my 1998 (1998 PCM) will not run with a bad temp sensor. If I start it with a bad sensor....massive amounts of fuel gets dumped into my engine and it spits, sputters and back fires....its hilarious...... Put a new one in....and BAM, perfect.

Your bogging issue could be from fuel getting dumped in.

I have seen people get 2 bad sensors in a row. Check the wiring and plug ends very good......if all looks good....try a new sensor.

.

 

I would like to bump this to the top. In July I ended up fixing this problem by installing a brand new battery and brand new alternator. Now, I'm starting to have a new problem. Just 2 weeks ago I noticed that my battery would be dead when letting the car sit for a week. I mostly drive the car on weekends only. Since I've noticed the battery dying I've been starting it every day and I noticed that the trip odometer is always reset to 0. Anyone know what could be causing this?

 

Do the gauges sweep across when the trip odometer resets? Mine does that, but only when it is cold out, under 45-50 degrees. From what I've read it means a problem with the battery/alternator. Seeing as you already replaced those however I wouldn't think that would be the cause. Check for a bad ground next, that has also been shown as the cause of this issue for some people.

Other threads on this issue including one you started a couple years ago.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...start-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-start-up.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...resetting.html

 

Look for a current draw from you battery when your car is off. You said it has an aftermarket alarm so if it does have a high current draw then start by unplugging the power source to your alarm. If that doesn't work then you can start pulling individual fuses and relays until the draw goes away then just figure what that fuse powers.

 

I got my battery tested yesterday at AutoZone and it was at 50%! A brand new battery that I bought in July is bad AGAIN? I also have a new alternator and the battery is a Diehard Gold. I came back to pick up the battery and they said it looks like my alternator is over charging my battery causing it to go bad. They gave me a new battery and it seems to be ok, but I noticed that when I come to a stop sign it still takes a while for my RPMs to come down.

 

When an alt in my Jeep went bad last year, I bought a store brand one and got TWO MORE bad alternators in a row when swapping them out (three total). The manager wouldnt even swap out parts anymore saying something was wrong with my Jeep. I switched to a better quality part, literally did nothing else, and it was perfect from that point on. Showed him what happened, and he couldnt believe it. Alts can even test good but be bad.

You can get bad batches of parts. Theres a very good chance your alt is bad and you may want to use the warranty on it and swap it out or upgrade. Sometimes a higher amp one is available or one with a lifetime warranty for a small upgrade cost (I went that route..though I sold the Jeep a month later haha...)

 

I also have an aftermarket alarm, and went through a security light problem a while ago, could not start the car sometimes and then not at all! So, pulled the spare key out of the sock drawer and tried it - car starts and now more security lights. I was associating the problem with some stereo work I was doing, among other things and it was the damm worn key pellet!