bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

My car came with a Yellow top when I bought it in 2009, it had been in there at least 2 years at that time and my daily driver at the time. FF to November 2011 @5am about to meet up with a group of cars to caravan to an airfield rental day. Car was sloppy to start up but didn't think much of it, got out onto the highway and notice the headlights starting to dim to the point they are almost useless. Get to the parking lot and the car dies as I come to a stop... Battery was totally dead, and noone was open to go buy another one before the racing started.. Tried push starting the car and it worked. Car made it to the airfield. I go to start the car again to stage for round 1. Oddly enough the car struggled but indeed started, and it did so 5 more times during the day. I was expecting to need a rolling start each time. Got the car home that night and parked it, tried to start the car one more time and got Nothing. Battery was completely dead. Went and bought a $195 yellow top the next day and still say it was worth every penny. My car is a Texas car btw and has to deal with temps ranging from 112F-18F so if it only lasts 3 years next time around so be it, I'd still recommend this battery to all my friends. Even as ****ed as it was i still was able to get another day out of it.

My car was Procharged with 2 high speed fans, a return style fuel system with 2 fuel pumps and a meth system and full sound system. Hopefully this feedback can help offset some of the other negative experiences.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Never a complaint with my yellow top 8 years of abuse....... Just bought a replacement about a year ago.

Fazz73jr

iTrader: (3)

After about 6.5 years and 2 cars my yellow top optima is finally dying. I'd definitely recommend one to a friend and will be buying another one.

First car was a 2000 Toyota celica with a 3k watt rms sound system that had a amp that stood on and drained it dead 3 or 4 times before I figured it out. Motor blew then sat on the self waiting about a year for my 383 to be finished. Now it's in the Camaro Turning Over A 12.5:1 383 Daily With A 1.5k Watt System And Finally Dying After 2.5 years In The Camaro.

dailydriver

My first, U.S. built Red Top lasted ~8 years through all kinds of abuse/discharge, without being charged (outside of the alternator) ONCE, or even trickle/maint. charged. But, like my username says, this car is used EVERY DAY; rain, shine, snow sleet, mud, heat, cold, short trip, long expedition, etc. (165K on it now).

That first RT still had life left in it, I just did not want to chance it for that winter, so off to Costco (when they were still sold there) to get a new one for ~$115.00.

At that time (battery born date of 9/09) I did not realize that Johnson Controls had taken them over (in an of itself, not necessarily a bad thing) and switched ALL production to a Mexican factory (possibly/potentially a VERY bad thing).

This one has lasted until now (I guess I should not complain at 4 years+, and the price I paid for it??), and even with the proper charging procedures, AND not as hard a life as the original, it seems to be not savable.

Maybe the Optima reps on this thread should come back on and at least try to explain/assure us of the quality control measures in place at their Mexican plant, and tell of any shortcuts/cheaper procedures concerning components/materials/construction/etc. which were put in place by JCI at this plant???

In any case, I am trying an Odyssey next (Sears Die Hard Platinum), as I still believe in non-lead acid batteries, and REFUSE to put a wet lead acid power source on top of my coolant overflow tank, and DO NOT want to deal with the whole relocation mess of much added weight (even though it is in the RIGHT place), current drop, and 0/1 gauge wires running through the interior.

OptimaJim

dailydriver, I hear concerns similar to your own on a regular basis and totally understand them. Johnson Controls acquired Optima back in 2000 and while the quality of our products has always been excellent, they have continued to improve under JCI's ownership. Our new production facility has increased consistency and quality in our products, because of the level of automation we now use to produce batteries.

So what is the voltage of your battery right now and what are the circumstances surrounding the issues you are having with it?

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

dailydriver

Is there ANY CHANCE AT ALL for production coming back to the U.S. at this point??

Yes, the EnerSys AGMs are slightly more pricey than your products, BUT, they have that 100% Made In The USA thing going for them, for the very few of us left who still give two ***** about that.

My red Top is currently sitting at ~11.7V, with NO LOAD/NOTHING ON except the Kiwi wifi OBD2 plug in which gives me said system voltage.
This drops to < 10.2V during cranking.

The car will crank and start and run for ~25 seconds, then slowly die out.
Could a catastrophic internal short/extreme sulfation in the RT prevent enough alternator current from flowing through it to even sustain the ignition/fuel system operations??

OptimaJim

I'm not privy to any information on when or where JCI will be locating facilities, but they do have a fairly substantial presence here, so it's not like it would be unheard of to add to that list.

If your RedTop is resting at 11.7 volts, it is more than 75% discharged. Fully-charged, it should measure about 12.6-12.8 volts. If it can reach that level of voltage and maintain close to that level for 12-24 hours while disconnected from your car (including your Kiwi wifi OBD2 plug), it should be ok. If it can't reach that voltage range or can't hold voltage when disconnected from everything, the battery needs to be replaced. If it holds voltage when disconnected, but drops voltage when connected to your car, there may be something discharging it.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

dailydriver

THANKS!

IF there were an internal short IN this Red Top, could it possibly block the current from the alternator from keeping the engine 'lit' for more than 20-25 seconds, even with a perfectly functioning alternator, and good grounds/wires everywhere else??

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

In a very general sense, all the battery does is power the starter. Once the engine is running, all the needed electricity should come from the alternator. Likewise, seeing a voltage drop while cranking (and the starter is sucking power) is normal.

For your situation, watching the voltage at the battery with the engine running (an indicator of the overall system voltage and how well the alternator is serving the system) would be interesting.

dailydriver

Yes, but my question was basically does the power from the alternator have to take a path through the battery, to get to the engine wiring harnesses/PCM/coils/fuel pump/etc., which would be stopped/broken by an internal short of the battery (or does all of this power DIRECTLY from the alternator's output post, without ever having to travel through the battery)???

OptimaJim

Each cell in a battery should measure at least about 2.1 volts, so subtracting 2.1 volts from 12.6 takes you down to about 10.5 volts. If you are seeing voltage of 11.7, you probably do not have an internal short. wssix99 is correct about batteries generally supplying the energy to get the vehicle (and alternator) started. It sounds like someone from an alternator company might be better-versed to answer questions about how your alternator functions once the engine is running.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

dailydriver

The dealer load tested this Red Top, and it is DONE, as it now drops below 10 volts and does not come back even with the patented 'parallel charge' technique.

Once they replace the fuel pump, and jump start it for me, I am driving to the nearest Sears and buying the biggest Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey) that will fit on top of the coolant reservoir (34/78??), extra weight on the nose BE DAMNED!!!

Then I am going to get a 145 amp Escalade alternator to keep the thing charged (they like LOTS of current to keep them de-sulfated, especially if you deep discharge them by listening to the stereo with the engine off).

I will also get the best combination maintenance/float/full charger I can find for AGMs, and charge it overnight once a week.

95LSX454

iTrader: (1)

Yellow Top is a great battery....no issues

cdoublejj

This is one of the VERY top results on google for "optima red top vs yellow top" so here i go,

I'm looking for an overkill bad axe battery, that i can listen to the radio with the heated seats and or fan on for an hour or 2 and still start with no issues. i also want something that can sit for 6 weeks with no issue.

it sounds like if you are gonna store it with no tender you need a desulfator?

OptimaJim

cdoublejj, given your intended use, it would be a good idea to measure your parasitic draw, to make sure you won't have any issues with your vehicle discharging your battery if it sits for six weeks or longer. Either way maintaining the battery's voltage while in storage or at least fully-recharging it when you bring it out of storage (and before you start your car) are very good ideas.

It's also good to understand that your battery will need to be fully-recharged with a battery charger (and not your alternator) if you run your stereo for several hours with your engine off.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

After my initial reluctance and past poor performance with optima I did go ahead and purchase a yellow top for my camaro. I did notice immediately the car had more peak power and the starter would fire quicker. Also of note the flickering of the dash lights went away when I put in the yellow top.

Premium product and worth the extra price for my weekend car

cdoublejj

I do want to note i have bone stock stereo grant it is a bose. Can no battery handle a stereo for 1 and half hours and still start and charge it's self? is it possible with an upgraded alternator?

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for butting into your thread, but I have been using the C-tech tender for my yellow top. Is that an issue?

Robert Cantu

iTrader: (2)

Red top.

cdoublejj

So indeed at least some of them are made in mexico. i got mine for about $170 shipped at street side, Optima wants almost $300. idk if mine is cheaper cause it's made in mexico or if it's just luck of the draw. idk if it has any bearing in quality. It is something i noted. As far as i know J.C. is pretty decent, had family members who work there so i know some or most of the batteries are still made in the states.



gonna see how this works out. I could get alteast 20-30 minutes of stereo time with head lights on 80% with my old damaged battery and still be able to start the car.
My only worries right not are the cold Missouri winters which can dip to temps of -2 plus wind shield.