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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:38 AM
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Default Alternator/generator pulley

Just a quick question if the alternator/generator pulley dimensions for a Corvette 97-04 are the same dimensions as the LS1 98-02 camaro alternator/generator pulley.

I'm experiencing random belt jump, already noted that my belt tensioner probably needs replacing, but didn't have this issue until the swap to a 145amp truck alternator. The pulleys line up fine and no squeel. I'm thinking the extra rotating mass of the truck alternator is causing the belt jump under certain deceleration scenarios. I've done WOT runs with no jump, then drive normally and find it jumped on the tensioner. I was thinking of getting the Goodyear decoupler for the alternator as well since I'm getting a replacement belt tensioner too.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:49 AM
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The two mount/ bolt holes are farther apart on the corvette alternator, so it won't bolt to a 98-02 F-body. I'd just buy a billet manual belt tensionier, it'll always keep the same tension. I know some of the corvette alternators have the clutch pulley that you're talking about getting.

Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 16, 2012 at 01:02 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 01:10 AM
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I know about the bolt holes issue, I'm just thinking about the situation of the extra mass causing the belt jump. It's $100 for both the tool and the pulley, not cheap.

If I go billet, its $100 too... dammit.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by SladeX
I know about the bolt holes issue, I'm just thinking about the situation of the extra mass causing the belt jump. It's $100 for both the tool and the pulley, not cheap.

If I go billet, its $100 too... dammit.
Yeah, I just was look at the Goodyear#49908 and most places that I see are $90 on up.
I know that I've never thrown a belt after I put a manual tensioner on my engine, and that's counting the stock, slp 25% UD and current Fluidampr 10% UD crank pulley and I've been DD my car since September 1998 when I bought it.
Anyway I's say go with the billet manual tensioner first, along with a goodyear gatorback belt if you don't already have one on there.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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I'm using a UD pulley with 25% since building the L92/LS1 topend combo. It's got a high ridge on it which has saved the belt from being thrown completely off.

I'll start with replacing the belt tensioner as I noted the "gap" at the top of the tensioner is slightly "wider" then at the side meaning its tilted slightly forward and not in the same plane as the rest of the accessories.

I still think the inertia of the mass of the new alternator is really messing with the 14 year old system as I've done repeated WOT runs and not have it toss, but drive it to the grocery store and find it jumped a thread. It's under sudden deceleration scenarios which I think is causing the problem.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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Have you changed the alternator pulley for a ASP overdrive?
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html

read up..........
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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I've already got a March and ASP overdrive pulley for it. The ASP one never fit right, always felt like it was machined incorrectly, while the March one slipped on fine and haven't had an issue.

As far as charging goes, I have an 850 rpm idle which at 25% underdrive is like 612rpm which is still as much as the automatic cars see in terms of RPM and thus I don't have a charging issue. 13 V fine. Regardless, the march overdrive pulley is on it and I have a goodyear belt on it appropriate for the kit/size.

To the link giver, I have a 145 truck alternator on the car, it was mentioned in one of my posts. The problem is NOT a voltage issue, it is a "belt jumping" issue. The issue was occurring with the stock pulley as well which prompted me to try the March overdrive pulley.

Last edited by SladeX; Aug 17, 2012 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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If you spend much time with WOT(above 6300rpm) I'd put the stock Alt. pulley back on so your not spinning the alt above 18k, and also the smaller dia. OD alt.pulley isn't helping at all with your issue.
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 10:14 PM
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I got the belt tensioner and replaced it already. Seems fine but I will put on the stock truck pulley back on. The stock truck one was what I had on when it first belt jumped. I tried the OD pulley on the alt as I wanted to see if the high ridge on it would help. It didn't, but the belt only cost $25 to test with the alt pulley which I had lying around anyways.

I know the OD pulley isn't helping the situation, it was just a test which is why I was asking about the vette overrun pulley. Can anyone focus on that original question?

I thought the truck pulley on it was the truck pulley when I got it, turns out it was an f-body pulley as well. I took it back to the yard I got it from and checked another one and found a difference in the pulley height.

Last edited by SladeX; Aug 19, 2012 at 08:52 AM.
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 06:28 PM
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Is your belt rubbing the lower alternator mount bolt?
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