The other day i changed air cleaner on my 2002 Trans Am to a K&N air filter. A gasket came with the new K&N filter and i put it on the lid (as the directions told me to) and it was hard to latch the lid shut. There was no gasket there with the factory air cleaner so is there suppose to be one on there???

 

Return the K&N garbage filter.....and go back to paper.

All you are doing with the K&N is allowing MORE small particles of dirt into your engine, which wears the rings out faster and you will get ZERO....yes, ZERO horsepower gain. The people at K&N are LIARS......they use dyno tricks and lies to sell their bullshit product.

PLUS......the oil that you spray onto the filter will reactivate and come off the filter mesh screen as soon as you drive in the rain, mist, fog or after it rains and you drive on wet roads. That oil flys back and directly onto the MAF sensor wires.....which instantly decreases the power that your engine can make because your MAF is doing a lot of the work when you go Wide Open Throttle to do a hard run. Then you need to remove the MAF to clean it or clean it with the MAF on the engine still and just remove the bellows/hoses. Either way......if you use the K&N filter and you spray that oil on there......you are actually DECREASING the power output of your engine......the second ANY moisture is in the air.

K&N filters are the biggest scam on the public......period. You will NEVER, EVER get better engine protection than you get from a paper filter. And there is absolutely no performance gains to be had from using any other filters.

You can do a dyno run with a paper filter......then totally remove the paper filter and have NOTHING in there......and you'll get the same dyno HP numbers on average. It's all BS....

Nobody has entered this thread to comment because this subject has been beaten to death.......



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Oh.....personally I like the Mann paper filter. I fits very tight and seals better than any other I've tried.

I get mine from www.rockauto.com.......when I have other stuff to order. Otherwise you can probably get them from local stores too.

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Thanks for beating this horse even more. lol



LS6427 is right on. An auto part cannot change the laws of physics and nothing is gained for free (or for the price of a K&N air filter) without consequences.




The gasket is supposed to be on there, but it will be harder to close. If you disconnect the hose going from the lid to the MAF, it will be easier to get the back tabs lined up and shut. You can then re-connect the hose.

(It was great when I figured out that my K&N filter was causing my engine to bog down and I got to take that gasket off!)

 

So how much do the paper filters cost and do those come with the gasket to because i believe the original one was in the car when i got it and there was not a gasket on there

 

No gasket needed with paper filter.

 

There is no gasket that comes with our air lid assemblies. It's a plastic tray that drops into the lid housing first, then the air filter drops into that tray. Then you clamp the top of the lid down. The filter itself has the rubber seal around its edge that the top of the lid clamps down onto.

The Mann filter has a very nice rubber seal built into it. Fits great.

Paper filters run between $3.00 each, all the way up to $11.00 for the AC Delco paper filter. They are all good and will function 100% the same. They will all seal too. Is just the Mann filter that I personally found to seal extremely tight.

Go to rockauto.com and pick one. Or the local auto parts store.

Mann MA 1060 is the part number for the Mann filter. But you can buy any of them. AC Delco is top notch too for $11.00.

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I know, I can't help myself. LOL

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On thanks guys you've been a great help. There's one more question many say k&n is a good way to get more airflow and the papers resist airflow. I don't drive my car all that much and never in ugly conditions, I've already bought the k&n and installed it do the k&n filters truly make better hp because some say they do others say not

 

Dude, get rid of the damn k&n!!!!! Nuff said!

 

This is 100% true but when you let in more air, you let in more dirt. Think of the filter as a window screen. If you put larger holes in the screen, air will flow more freely, but little bugs who couldn't get in before, will now be able to pass through.


If your car's power is constrained by air flow, it will help. If your car's power is constrained by fuel flow, it won't. Altitude and atmospheric pressure also play a part here. Regardless, if there is a gain, it will only be noticeable to a dyno rig or people who you show your auto parts receipts to. (It would be a small percentage of what you started out with.) ... and when (its only a matter of time) it fouls your MAF, you will definitely see a significant HP drop, which you'll be able to feel for sure.


Nothing is for free. Any HP that you might gain from a K&N air filter could be paid by earlier rebuild costs down the road. There are less risky and potentially less costly ways to gain HP.

 

thanks guys that has answered a lot of questions for me. i wish i would have known this before i spent the extra money for a K&N air filter.

One more question are the K&N oil filters good oil filters or do they do they do a crapy job like the air filters?

 

I you take your car and out it on a dyno and get a RWHP number, then wait til the coolant/engine temps cool down to the same temp as the first dyno run, then you make a second pull......its pretty much an impossibility to get the same exact number. it will always be a couple RWHP higher or lower. thats just the way it is. Here's what the scammers at K&N do......
They make a bunch of dyno pulls...and when they get a favorable spike in RWHP over a paper filter dyno run....they tell the world about it. It's total BULLSHIT......

I can pee in my gas tank and do a second dyno run and if it shows 5 RWHP more than the first dyno run....can I sell bottles of "Fuel Urine" to boost horsepower......NOPE.

The K&N CERTAINLY allows more air into the intake......but there is absolutely NO DAMN WAT it's enough to register on anyone's measurement equipment. Hell, years ago when my car was getting tuned they did a few runs without any air filter in there. It showed ZERO difference in RWHP from earlier runs with a filter. They took my filter out because it was disgustingly dirty. Did a few runs without it in there until I ran a new filter over to them to finish the tuning.

You will gain ZERO power from the K&N filter. It's impossible to attribute any gains in dyno runs from one to another from a filter change.

******and like we have said......the K&N actually REDUCES power and kills performance because the oil from the filter WILL shed off the mesh filter and land directly onto the MAF sensor wires coating them with a layer of oil. Then they cannot read the air stream accurately passing by them. When you go WOT the MAF comes into play along with the 02 sensors to provide maximum power and efficiency. Any oil, any at all, that gets onto the MAF sensor wires.....KILLS PERFORMANCE.

Return the damn thing and just tell them the car runs poorly with it in there.....they should give you your money back.

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You don't want to go there and engage on that kind of subject matter... . Check out this thread and look for facts instead of a brand name. There are some good links and points in this thread along with a good bit of inscessant rambling that accompanies oil, filter, and fluids questions.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ikes-what.html

 

Seriously listen to what your being told, Toss that POS in the trash.

I acquired my 98 ram air last fall from a buddy so I really have not put many miles on it yet but few weeks ago she started idling rough and would stumble in the 2500-3000 rmp area & was only getting worse, not to mention I only got 13mpg last tank. Guess what was causing the issues. Yep that nasty, oily K&n filter he put in shortly before I bought it. I changed the filter, cleaned the screen and MAF, and now she runs like a dream.
Oh he owes me a case of beer for being stupid