GreenBlood55

iTrader: (1)

Need some help here guys. A/C hasnt worked since I bought the car a few months ago, and its starting to get hot out..

The Air blowing out of the vents is strong enough to fly a kite.

Neighbor had a cheap gauge from auto zone and we put it on. It read in the green safe zone the entire time.

The AC clutch ONLY engages on/off when I turn the AC on and off at the switch.

Air coming out of vent is no more then room temp/warm. Not hot, and by no means cool let alone cold.

So, wtf is going on here. By all means I would think the AC should be working and blowing cold but its not.

nomasterase

iTrader: (4)

Gauge readings are only accurate when the compressor is running so in the green means nothing in your case except that you are low on 134a

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

need a recharge no big deal. I wouldnt keep running the compressor tho until you get it fixed because it could possibly be low on oil and when the ac gets recharged they put oil in the compressor.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

If there's no difference between hot & cold, but the
line from evap to condenser ices up (or sweats, at
least) then the vacuum control of the diverters is
probably the problem.

You need to see the high side - low side difference
to know whether the compressor is doing its job,
and see both individually to know whether you're
undercharged or perhaps restricted at the orifice
tube.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

i don't know what a cheap gauge from autozone really is, but you really need a high/low gauge set like this to know what's going on

what jimmy was eluding to can also help diagnose things- the output line from the compressor before it goes into the condenser should be hot, and the line from the condenser before it hits where the orifice tube is should be cooler but slightly warm. then after the orifice tube to where it goes through the firewall into the evaporator and the output line from the evap should be cold. the accumulator will also be cold and wet. so just by feeling lines you can somewhat tell if the system is working, if the accumulator isn't cold and wet then the system may be low on r134a. if the output line from the compressor is not hot then your compressor might be shot. if you feel a temperature change anywhere in the line before the orifice tube then you have a blockage.

GreenBlood55

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses. You will have to forgive my ignorance on what the parts are and what they are called. When I turn the AC on and the clutch on the compressor engages and starts spinning, i can put my hand on the metal canister thats just behind the battery and it doesnt get hot or cold. just kind of stays the same. the lines going into and out of it also stay pretty much the same temp.

I bled some 134 out of the large valve next to that canister and whatever was coming out of it was pretty much just warm air. I would have thought any refridgerant that came out would be cold?

Homeless2bNY

iTrader: (2)

so the compressor clutch does NOT stay on?
just comes on then goes off?

if thats the case i would check the pressure sensor in
the line on the pass fender.

GreenBlood55

iTrader: (1)

No, it only turns on AND stays on if i turn the **** on. it doesnt cycle on and off, it just stays spinning until i turn the **** to the off position, then the clutch stops spinning

Homeless2bNY

iTrader: (2)

the go to a shop to have the system evacuated and recharged.

GreenBlood55

iTrader: (1)

Can an AC system simply lose a charge from sitting for 2 years, even if it doesnt have a leak?

skeeterboy

It can have a small leak that the ear and eye can not see so yes it can leak out.