Agent 98

Hello:

Problem #1 was a jammed window motor got the Dorman replacement luckily PO apparently did the shbox mod so it was easy to swap the new one in.

Problem #2 !!!!! rear window roller /rivet pulled out of the metal shoe that holds the glass AND broke off the corner of the shoe/metal bracket. So now there's nothing to redrill, fix,it was gone. Thought about JB welding or riveting in a patch, but then you can't get the roller by itself anymore, so as a fix til I can find a better solution. Original urethane roller wheel diameter was 1.06"

I used a 1 inch diameter head, go to Home depot or Lowe's, 1/2" shank - zinc plated, 2" long carriage bolt, enlarged what was left of the rivet hole with 1/2 drill bit, slid the head of the carriage bolt into the window track threaded the carriage bolt into the shoe, then tightened up a bolt on each side. The rounded nature of the carraige bolt allows it to move in the track without binding, then I greased it up and put the door back together.

A little bit of chattering/noise but the window is in there solid and moves smoothly, no worry about it cracking until I can get a better fix.

Mike

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Did you look in the bottom of your door for the old roller?

This "fix" is going to end up doing more damage:
- Since you are now metal on metal for the bolt and the window track, one or the other (probably the more expensive track) is going to get torn up. Why not just have a machinist make you a sliding block or roller out of nylon?
- The old roller was on a post, which was riveted in to the plate that attaches to the glass. Stress cracks form around that rivet hole and the old post falls out. If you put that bolt through the same cracked plate without welding it, (the cracks could get small) the cracks will get wider, the new post will rip out, and you'll end up doing worse damage.

Most people have had a better time of this by finding the old post/roller in the bottom of the door and welding it and the plate back together. BTW - Your old roller can't be gone as there's now where for it to go. (Unless you have a gaping hole in the bottom of your door.)

Agent 98

Details:

1.The roller was inside the door. looked OK but the roller was a little soft/starting to get small cracks.

2.I thought about tapping it out for a bolt and use a fender washer which I tack to the window bracket, that is still a weaker set up than what I did

3.The ultimate lifespan of my set up is a function of

a.Wear per actuation
b.number of actuations
c.max/ultimate/failure strength of the mounting arrangement versus peak stress experienced per actuation.
d.metal fatigue characteristics of the parts.

These are steel , well lubricated, how many parts on a car are steel-on-steel with grease? 50% of the moving parts use a bushing not roller bearings.

4.I said this is a temp fix til I can get something better, but I think it will last as long as I want it to. The worst thing to do to a window is to vibrate it and let it move around loose, that arrangement won't last long especially on a cold day, so for now I'm OK with it

Thanks for the weigh-ins.