what oil to run.
Launching!
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From: Richmond, VA
In the end, I personally still use it - but more for added insurance when I (forget to change my oil on time, want to save the planet by using non-petroleum lubricants, keep up with the Jones', impress the auto parts store clerk, regurgitate what I hear in commercials, <insert reason here>).
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
In fact, even certain conventionals are superior to other conventionals in some regards (for example, high ZDDP content oil vs. normal GF-4 rating and beyond oils), but again this may or may not matter depending on the application.
It is wrong to assume that all oils of a given grade are exactly equal/the same. Some are better for certain purposes/applications, and some are just plain superior at being lubricants (again, whether or not this actually equals longer engine life will depend on the application/usage).
I know I sound like a broken record with this, but there is a ton of factual oil info on sites like BITOG.com. Countless VOAs and UOAs have show differences between various oil compositions, as well as how these oils have performed back-to-back in the same engines.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Richmond, VA
Sure some synthetics protect BETTER. Sure there's plenty of threads on other sites with data proving it. Hell, there are even kits you can buy to test the oil out yourself. But being that none of these engines ever fail because of which oil you run, I have to ask myself if I'm actually prolonging the life of this engine with synthetic oil or just wasting roughly $20 extra dollars each oil change. Like is this synthetic oil gonna get me 10k more miles than conventional would? My answer would be maybe but you'd never be able to prove it one way or the other. There's too many variables. But what I DO KNOW is a synthetic oil change with a reputable brand is at least $35. Conventional shouldn't be more than $25. $10 ain't much today but hell $10 is gas that can be used for highway passes and other hoodrat stuff.
Last edited by BWZ_2k2Z28; Dec 5, 2013 at 12:46 AM.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
In general I agree, however you *can* do UOAs on different brands and types of oil, in your same engine, back to back, under the same general conditions, and see which ones show best results for your application in said UOA. Again, it's not 100% proof that the engine will last longer, since there are things that could still fail no matter what oil is used, but it does give you an idea of how different oils perform in your application.
12 Second Club
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
This site will "open your eyes", and show you just how little all of the 'old timers' (and their 'old wives' tales') actually know about oils/lubricants.
They may be able to build a 900 HP NA LSx in their sleep, with one hand tied behind their back, but that does NOT guarantee they know anything about actual oil.
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From what I understand, most synthetics are nothing more than a higher grade of conventional oil in that it is composed of a higher percentage of stable molecules. So they are all dyno oils. If you change a synthetic every 3000 miles, I would think you are throwing money away. Now there are synthetics, such as the M1 0w40, which are mineral-based oils and IMO are a better class of oil.
12 Second Club
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
M1 0W-40 is actually Visom based, which is Exxon Mobil's own proprietary base stock which supposedly rivals most "real" or "true" synthetic group 4 and 5 (PAO/POE) base stocks.
This oil (their 0W-40), used to be a high percentage group 4 (PAO) base stock more than 3-4 years ago.
M1 0W-40 is actually Visom based, which is Exxon Mobil's own proprietary base stock which supposedly rivals most "real" or "true" synthetic group 4 and 5 (PAO/POE) base stocks.
This oil (their 0W-40), used to be a high percentage group 4 (PAO) base stock more than 3-4 years ago.
This oil (their 0W-40), used to be a high percentage group 4 (PAO) base stock more than 3-4 years ago.
12 Second Club
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
I change my oil every 3k in my cars and never have any issues. I just use m1 in my camaro because thats what Ive always used. When I pulled the original motor with 225k it was extremely clean and ran great.
As long as u change your oil & filter every 3,000 miles, u should be ok with whatever...I have run rotella or mobil one in my vehicles and have no problems....running a good filter is more important than anything, run a ac delco or wix filter they are great........DO NOT run a basic fram or off brand filter...good way to ruin a motor over years and years of use...just my 2 cents
12 Second Club
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
Based on what Ive been told and read, the 0W40 is better because the oil flows a lot better at cold start up and that is the hardest part on any motor and also the 5w30 tends to break down to almost a 20 weight when its warm, not to mention the 0w40 is a european blend so it has more additives in it.
The EP versions of M1 are the only other ones in their lineup which have a very good starting TBN, so that they can be rated as 15K mile oils.
As long as you live somewhere that does not see ridiculously low ambient temps when you are starting/using your LS1, it is one of the best oils to put into these cars.
I picked up 6 quarts of European blend Castrol Edge with Syntec (SAE 0W-40) today and a Wix 51522 long filter. Hoping to see good results. I live in a warm climate except for like 2.5 months out of the year. No snow, just temps down to around 20.
Start with a quality oil and have it analyzed regularly. The engine will tell you what it likes and dislikes. Anything else is based on tradition, someone else's engine, marketing, or habit.
For example, in my boosted LS1, the oil analysis suggested Mobil 1 was totally inadequate. I've wound up with a 0W-30 Castrol and run it to 7,000ish miles. The chemical analysis shows no reason to change it sooner. In fact it suggests I run the oil longer but I get nervous.
Another example: In my (now sold) Silverado with the 8100, the analysis showed the conventional 5W-30s were breaking down from heat and showing a bit of bearing wear. The suggestion was made, based on what Blackstone has seen in the past on these engines, that I try a synthetic 5W-40 diesel oil. The results were much better, the oil tested well, and was good for 8,000-9,000 miles consistently.
In both these cases it was vehicles I beat on pretty hard (or towed with quite heavily). The analysis suggested I could have run the oils longer.
On the other hand, in a POS 96 Civic with 160K that I use as a commuter (150 miles per day for work), the analysis shows regular old Napa 5W-30 is still protecting it very well at 15,000 miles.
I say again, start with a quality oil, get it analyzed, and let your engine tell you what it wants.
For example, in my boosted LS1, the oil analysis suggested Mobil 1 was totally inadequate. I've wound up with a 0W-30 Castrol and run it to 7,000ish miles. The chemical analysis shows no reason to change it sooner. In fact it suggests I run the oil longer but I get nervous.
Another example: In my (now sold) Silverado with the 8100, the analysis showed the conventional 5W-30s were breaking down from heat and showing a bit of bearing wear. The suggestion was made, based on what Blackstone has seen in the past on these engines, that I try a synthetic 5W-40 diesel oil. The results were much better, the oil tested well, and was good for 8,000-9,000 miles consistently.
In both these cases it was vehicles I beat on pretty hard (or towed with quite heavily). The analysis suggested I could have run the oils longer.
On the other hand, in a POS 96 Civic with 160K that I use as a commuter (150 miles per day for work), the analysis shows regular old Napa 5W-30 is still protecting it very well at 15,000 miles.
I say again, start with a quality oil, get it analyzed, and let your engine tell you what it wants.
You can talk to engine builders, race car teams, regular old Billy-Bob who has run STP additives since Richard Petty was racing the Charger, or the internet warrior who reads bobistheoilguy.com forums while on their **** break at work, and they will all have a different response on the oil they run and why.
Who cares why they say? What actually matters is how your engine responds to the oil that is in it. The only way to know how well it is or isn't working is by doing an oil analysis. Let the engine tell the story, not an engine shop who is in bed with a specific brand, or some guy who blames a Fram filter and Mobil 1 for blowing up their engine.
With that said, I have over 200K miles on an LT1 that has had damn near every oil ran in it with every different filter since 97.
You'll be fine with that.