what oil to run.
12-17-2013, 08:23 PM
#83
Google "Blackstone oil analysis"...they have a free test kit that you can order. They ship you a small bottle, you grab a sample in said bottle as the oil is draining, send it in with $25, and they give you a report. That's about it. I'm sure there are other companies that do it as well...Blackstone is who I've used in the past.
I thought I read somewhere once upon a time that the LS1s in the Vettes came with Mobil 1 from the factory since they ran a bit hotter than an f-body due to the oil pan design and lack of airflow around it...who knows.
Maybe so, but I also think part of the motivation was that they wanted to make it seem like the Vette was more 'upscale' and exclusive by using M1 as the factory fill.
We are lucky that they even decided to put the same LS1 in our rides (albeit lower rated on paper only), since many y body owners were probably more than upset over that, despite it being almost 'tradition' at this point going back to the 1st and 2nd gen f bodies.
It seems that the General is even unwilling to do this nowadays since the ZL1 only gets the LSA, and NOT the ZR1's LS9 (although the base SS gets the C6's base LS3), and ONLY now that there is a new C7 y body, and engine name/design for it LT1), have they decided to put an LS7 into an f body (Z28).
We are lucky that they even decided to put the same LS1 in our rides (albeit lower rated on paper only), since many y body owners were probably more than upset over that, despite it being almost 'tradition' at this point going back to the 1st and 2nd gen f bodies.
It seems that the General is even unwilling to do this nowadays since the ZL1 only gets the LSA, and NOT the ZR1's LS9 (although the base SS gets the C6's base LS3), and ONLY now that there is a new C7 y body, and engine name/design for it LT1), have they decided to put an LS7 into an f body (Z28).
12-17-2013, 11:50 PM
#84
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12-18-2013, 01:04 PM
#87
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I remember reading a C4 tech article, probably over a decade ago, that mentioned the 1992 LT1 as being the first example of a factory synthetic fill for the Corvette. I don't remember the source though.
12-18-2013, 01:52 PM
#88
It'd be interesting to know the actual reasoning for the difference between M1 in Y-body and conventional in F-body. On the other hand, it may be just the same as how many licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie pop -- the world may never know. 
12-18-2013, 05:36 PM
#89
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I quoted this because it is the BEST response I have seen in this thread and it was barely, if at all acknowledged.
You can talk to engine builders, race car teams, regular old Billy-Bob who has run STP additives since Richard Petty was racing the Charger, or the internet warrior who reads bobistheoilguy.com forums while on their **** break at work, and they will all have a different response on the oil they run and why.
Who cares why they say? What actually matters is how your engine responds to the oil that is in it. The only way to know how well it is or isn't working is by doing an oil analysis. Let the engine tell the story, not an engine shop who is in bed with a specific brand, or some guy who blames a Fram filter and Mobil 1 for blowing up their engine.
With that said, I have over 200K miles on an LT1 that has had damn near every oil ran in it with every different filter since 97.
You can talk to engine builders, race car teams, regular old Billy-Bob who has run STP additives since Richard Petty was racing the Charger, or the internet warrior who reads bobistheoilguy.com forums while on their **** break at work, and they will all have a different response on the oil they run and why.
Who cares why they say? What actually matters is how your engine responds to the oil that is in it. The only way to know how well it is or isn't working is by doing an oil analysis. Let the engine tell the story, not an engine shop who is in bed with a specific brand, or some guy who blames a Fram filter and Mobil 1 for blowing up their engine.
With that said, I have over 200K miles on an LT1 that has had damn near every oil ran in it with every different filter since 97.
12-18-2013, 07:41 PM
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Let's face it, it takes A LOT of (NA) abuse to blow up these engines, yes, regardless of what oil is in the sump.
I know someone who was putting a built crate LS3 into a C5, so they wanted to see just what their old, tired, very high mileage, LS1 could 'take'.
He went out onto the highway with the rev limiter raised to 7.5 grand and held the thing for about an hour just below the limiter-NOTHING.
Finally DETERMINED to blow it up, he downshifted while at those revs and zinged the crank up to almost 9 grand, and it FINALLY sent a rod into orbit.
So YES, they will last FOREVER with ANY SAE/PQIA/manufacturer approved oil out there, conventional or synthetic.
Will some top drawer synthetics; make for less start-up wear, make our LSxes quieter during start-up and once warm, make barely measurable more power due to reduced friction from better add packs, run slightly smoother and cooler?
The answer is YES, but each owner has to decide for themselves IF the added cost is worth the (even) slight benefits.
I know someone who was putting a built crate LS3 into a C5, so they wanted to see just what their old, tired, very high mileage, LS1 could 'take'.
He went out onto the highway with the rev limiter raised to 7.5 grand and held the thing for about an hour just below the limiter-NOTHING.
Finally DETERMINED to blow it up, he downshifted while at those revs and zinged the crank up to almost 9 grand, and it FINALLY sent a rod into orbit.
So YES, they will last FOREVER with ANY SAE/PQIA/manufacturer approved oil out there, conventional or synthetic.
Will some top drawer synthetics; make for less start-up wear, make our LSxes quieter during start-up and once warm, make barely measurable more power due to reduced friction from better add packs, run slightly smoother and cooler?
The answer is YES, but each owner has to decide for themselves IF the added cost is worth the (even) slight benefits.
12-18-2013, 07:47 PM
#91
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Let's face it, it takes A LOT of (NA) abuse to blow up these engines, yes, regardless of what oil is in the sump.
I know someone who was putting a built crate LS3 into a C5, so they wanted to see just what their old, tired, very high mileage, LS1 could 'take'.
He went out onto the highway with the rev limiter raised to 7.5 grand and held the thing for about an hour just below the limiter-NOTHING.
Finally DETERMINED to blow it up, he downshifted while at those revs and zinged the crank up to almost 9 grand, and it FINALLY sent a rod into orbit.
I know someone who was putting a built crate LS3 into a C5, so they wanted to see just what their old, tired, very high mileage, LS1 could 'take'.
He went out onto the highway with the rev limiter raised to 7.5 grand and held the thing for about an hour just below the limiter-NOTHING.
Finally DETERMINED to blow it up, he downshifted while at those revs and zinged the crank up to almost 9 grand, and it FINALLY sent a rod into orbit.
12-18-2013, 08:01 PM
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12-18-2013, 10:35 PM
#93
This guy has ranked over 100 oils by wear protection test results he's done.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013...-test-ranking/
That link has been posted on here a time or two but I skimmed through and didn't see it in this thread. It's long but worth the read. Here are the high lights I made note of.
being synthetic alone doesn't make an oil any better than conventional as far as wear protection is concerned.
Diesel and break in oils are ranked low.
More ZDDP is not necessarily better and too much is bad
Zinc additives ruin oil
“Oil extreme concentrate” is an additive that improves oil wear protection and doesn’t contain zinc, but for the cost you probably better off choosing a high ranked oil.
oil viscosity plays no particular role in an oil’s wear protection capability.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013...-test-ranking/
That link has been posted on here a time or two but I skimmed through and didn't see it in this thread. It's long but worth the read. Here are the high lights I made note of.
being synthetic alone doesn't make an oil any better than conventional as far as wear protection is concerned.
Diesel and break in oils are ranked low.
More ZDDP is not necessarily better and too much is bad
Zinc additives ruin oil
“Oil extreme concentrate” is an additive that improves oil wear protection and doesn’t contain zinc, but for the cost you probably better off choosing a high ranked oil.
oil viscosity plays no particular role in an oil’s wear protection capability.
12-19-2013, 11:50 PM
#94
Just ordered my blackstone oil analysis kit. I run Mobil 1 0w-40 on my car because I like the idea of it being thinner on cold startups, while a little thicker when hot. I also read that mobil 1 5w-30 is more like a 5w-25 so the 40 is the next step up so that's another reason. I also have like 6 cases in my garage that I got for free lol.
Thinking about a 5w-40 next change, but that's diesel oil so I'm unsure what the differences are and if it's safe.
Chris,
Thinking about a 5w-40 next change, but that's diesel oil so I'm unsure what the differences are and if it's safe.
Chris,
12-20-2013, 05:24 PM
#95
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Just ordered my blackstone oil analysis kit. I run Mobil 1 0w-40 on my car because I like the idea of it being thinner on cold startups, while a little thicker when hot. I also read that mobil 1 5w-30 is more like a 5w-25 so the 40 is the next step up so that's another reason. I also have like 6 cases in my garage that I got for free lol.
Thinking about a 5w-40 next change, but that's diesel oil so I'm unsure what the differences are and if it's safe.
Chris,
Thinking about a 5w-40 next change, but that's diesel oil so I'm unsure what the differences are and if it's safe.
Chris,
Some 5W-40s made for late model (2009 and up?) diesels are called "low SAPS" oils, which are designed to not clog up their particulate filters and other emissions equipment.
These are "safe" for gasoline engines, BUT, they do have reduced levels of ZDDP, and even TBN building calcium and boron, as well as other reduced additives in their add pack.
So I would stick with the M1 0W-40 over these.
A NON-low SAPS, older style, 5W-40 is the one you want to use, but VERY few are as great an oil as the M1 0W-40 you are already using, and some might actually be too thick for a standard clearance built/factory stock LS1, except for maybe the extreme southern tier states in the summer.
12-20-2013, 06:30 PM
#96
IF you live where the winter ambient temps do not get too low (IF you even drive it in the winter??), this is FINE, and one of the best 'on the shelf' oils you can put into an LS1.
Some 5W-40s made for late model (2009 and up?) diesels are called "low SAPS" oils, which are designed to not clog up their particulate filters and other emissions equipment.
These are "safe" for gasoline engines, BUT, they do have reduced levels of ZDDP, and even TBN building calcium and boron, as well as other reduced additives in their add pack.
So I would stick with the M1 0W-40 over these.
A NON-low SAPS, older style, 5W-40 is the one you want to use, but VERY few are as great an oil as the M1 0W-40 you are already using, and some might actually be too thick for a standard clearance built/factory stock LS1, except for maybe the extreme southern tier states in the summer.
Some 5W-40s made for late model (2009 and up?) diesels are called "low SAPS" oils, which are designed to not clog up their particulate filters and other emissions equipment.
These are "safe" for gasoline engines, BUT, they do have reduced levels of ZDDP, and even TBN building calcium and boron, as well as other reduced additives in their add pack.
So I would stick with the M1 0W-40 over these.
A NON-low SAPS, older style, 5W-40 is the one you want to use, but VERY few are as great an oil as the M1 0W-40 you are already using, and some might actually be too thick for a standard clearance built/factory stock LS1, except for maybe the extreme southern tier states in the summer.
I think I'll stray away from 5w-40 like you mentioned. Either mobil 1 0w-40 or german castrol 0w-30 will be going in my car. And both will be getting oil analyses from blackstone labs.
What are you all running for filters? I have the extended length K&N which I think I'll stick with.
Chris,
12-20-2013, 07:52 PM
#97
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I currently use either Amsoil EaO 64s, which is their truck LSx size filter, or Wix/NAPA Platinums in that truck size.
The Amsoil filters use long lasting/OCI Donaldson synthetic media filtering technology, which is why I like them, despite many on here blasting them for their cost.
But the Bosch Distance Plus, M1 EPs, and the K&N GOLDs you are using are very good as well.
Some even say the <$8.50 at Wal Mart Fram Ultras are an excellent filter (but NOT their "Orange Can Of Death", bottom line deals!).
The Amsoil filters use long lasting/OCI Donaldson synthetic media filtering technology, which is why I like them, despite many on here blasting them for their cost.
But the Bosch Distance Plus, M1 EPs, and the K&N GOLDs you are using are very good as well.
Some even say the <$8.50 at Wal Mart Fram Ultras are an excellent filter (but NOT their "Orange Can Of Death", bottom line deals!).
Last edited by dailydriver; 12-20-2013 at 08:02 PM.
06-23-2014, 09:37 AM
#98
I understand that Amsoil Signatures Series is their high end oil, but how does their XL line compare to Mobile 1 EP and Royal Purple high end line under normal driving conditions? (If it makes any difference, I'm only considering 5W-30 weight.)
I switched to the XL series and I want to make sure that the extra money I'm paying is worth it. I would like to get the Signature Series, but my Fast Lube shop doesn't carry.
Also, I read that Royal Purple contains "moly." Is this good or bad for the valves/engine?
I switched to the XL series and I want to make sure that the extra money I'm paying is worth it. I would like to get the Signature Series, but my Fast Lube shop doesn't carry.
Also, I read that Royal Purple contains "moly." Is this good or bad for the valves/engine?
06-23-2014, 05:26 PM
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IF you are not road racing/open tracking the car, the XL line is fine (some would say even if you WERE!).
BUT, I for none think that you could save some coin by using the Mobil 1 EP line, or even their top notch 0W-40 (if it gets hot enough where you live), from Wal Mart, and doing it yourself.
Of course, this is IF you are allowed to work on your car where you live, without having cops or guards called on you.
'Moly', especially the organic, soluble types, is VERY VERY good for engines of ALL types and vintages, and it will NOT become corrosive/caustic, and will NOT 'poison' catcons (IF you are one of the VERY few on here who still has them as I do) the way that sky high levels of ZDDP absolutely will.
I sometimes even add extra soluble type moly to even already high moly level oil, especially near the end of an oil change interval (OCI), since it is a 'sacrificial' type of additive and IS used up as the oil ages in use.
I am not sure WHAT is in Royal Purple's "Synerlec" additive they put in their upper line oils, or even IF it has ANY organic moly in it at all.
They may use an ester type anti-wear/anti-friction compound instead of the 'usual' suspects (moly, ZDDP, titanium, boron, etc.), and no one knows for sure since it is deemed a 'proprietary' additive by them.
BUT, I for none think that you could save some coin by using the Mobil 1 EP line, or even their top notch 0W-40 (if it gets hot enough where you live), from Wal Mart, and doing it yourself.
Of course, this is IF you are allowed to work on your car where you live, without having cops or guards called on you.
'Moly', especially the organic, soluble types, is VERY VERY good for engines of ALL types and vintages, and it will NOT become corrosive/caustic, and will NOT 'poison' catcons (IF you are one of the VERY few on here who still has them as I do) the way that sky high levels of ZDDP absolutely will.
I sometimes even add extra soluble type moly to even already high moly level oil, especially near the end of an oil change interval (OCI), since it is a 'sacrificial' type of additive and IS used up as the oil ages in use.
I am not sure WHAT is in Royal Purple's "Synerlec" additive they put in their upper line oils, or even IF it has ANY organic moly in it at all.
They may use an ester type anti-wear/anti-friction compound instead of the 'usual' suspects (moly, ZDDP, titanium, boron, etc.), and no one knows for sure since it is deemed a 'proprietary' additive by them.
