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LS6 valley cover install on f-body, how hard is it?

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Old 12-04-2013, 09:11 AM
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Default LS6 valley cover install on f-body, how hard is it?

I found this good write-up http://www.ls1howto.com/?article=18

It doesn't look too complicated, but it looks like a lot can go wrong lol. How long should this project take? I'm comfortable with using all sorts of tools (dremel to cut the block), etc, and I've done plenty of other work on my cars, but never had to take an engine apart to such an extent. I know that accessing the back of these engines is a PITA. Is this definitely one of those job you can DYI on a Saturday morning? I'd like some input from people who've done this previously, and any difficulties or "events" they encountered and how they got around them!
Old 12-04-2013, 09:32 AM
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:35 AM
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Check out my build thread -- it's very easy

I'd suggest picking up a set of new manifold gaskets... and a bunch of degreaser!
Old 12-04-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by demonspeed
Check out my build thread -- it's very easy

I'd suggest picking up a set of new manifold gaskets... and a bunch of degreaser!
Is there anything else I need to order? I ordered:
-the ls6 valley cover, comes with vacuum cap
-will need a valve cover plug,
-I read that I can just get the proper size/length rubber fuel line from an auto store instead of ordering a specific pcv hose?
-And is that it?

P.S I can't/don't know how to find your thread demonspeed! lol

Last edited by giosoccer20; 12-04-2013 at 11:44 AM.
Old 12-04-2013, 12:05 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...ld-thread.html
Old 12-04-2013, 03:03 PM
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You probably can just get that line from a parts store, but I'm OCD and like to keep things as "GM" as possible. Further, I got all of the parts (sans the gaskets) for less than $100 shipped from GM Parts Direct. Just something to keep in mind if you don't want to be running around and just "plug and play."

Originally Posted by giosoccer20
P.S I can't/don't know how to find your thread demonspeed! lol
What last call said -- it's in my sig
Old 12-04-2013, 04:57 PM
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Make sure you order a valley cover gasket, and knock sensor grommets/seals as well IF the LS6 cover you get does not come with it.

I have done the gasket, and KS grommets on my stock valley cover, not hard at all.
Just follow the torque specs/sequence in the Helms manual for EVERyTHING.

The only 'tricky' part I can see is being OCD about NOT getting any shavings/filings/bits of the corner of the ground/trimmed block into the lifter valley.
Old 12-04-2013, 05:02 PM
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Just an FYI......my valley cover that is on my new 390ci and it was on my old 427ci........definitely sucked a lot of oil mist out of the crankcase through that front vacuum port on the valley cover. My oil was being burned like crazy and I had no idea why. Everyone said that I should get a LS6 valley cover with my 427ci. So I had the builder add one in. Later when my oil was burning like crazy someone told me to get a clear piece of tubing to put on that valley cover port to see if oil is getting sucked through. It was ridiculous how much was going through it.

I capped that valley cover port off and my oil burning 100% stopped. Hooking the vacuum port to that valley cover port is way too much suction at idle, that's when all the oil mist gets pulled out.

Just sayin......

.
Old 12-04-2013, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by demonspeed
You probably can just get that line from a parts store, but I'm OCD and like to keep things as "GM" as possible. Further, I got all of the parts (sans the gaskets) for less than $100 shipped from GM Parts Direct. Just something to keep in mind if you don't want to be running around and just "plug and play."

What last call said -- it's in my sig
Damn that's cheap! I'm 97 out of pocket for just the valley cover. Got it from an ebay seller. Will be buying the valve plug at chevy dealer tomorrow for 10 bucks. I expect to be 150 out of pocket by the end of this (including tools I may need, e.g. fuel line disconnect tool).
Old 12-04-2013, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Make sure you order a valley cover gasket, and knock sensor grommets/seals as well IF the LS6 cover you get does not come with it.

I have done the gasket, and KS grommets on my stock valley cover, not hard at all.
Just follow the torque specs/sequence in the Helms manual for EVERyTHING.

The only 'tricky' part I can see is being OCD about NOT getting any shavings/filings/bits of the corner of the ground/trimmed block into the lifter valley.
Are replacing those gaskets absolutely necessary? I mean I know it's ideal, but I just wanted to get everything together by this saturday so I could do this job, but if I have to get those things I won't be able to.

I'm asking because the writeup I posted didn't mention the need for any replacement gaskets, not even the manifold gasket.
Old 12-04-2013, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by giosoccer20
Are replacing those gaskets absolutely necessary? I mean I know it's ideal, but I just wanted to get everything together by this saturday so I could do this job, but if I have to get those things I won't be able to.

I'm asking because the writeup I posted didn't mention the need for any replacement gaskets, not even the manifold gasket.
The new valley cover will come with everything you need. Replacing the other gaskets would only be necessary if there was a problem with them during removal. For instance, I did not anticipate needing manifold gaskets since I never seem to have any issues with those rubber gaskets no matter the mileage/age; however, they were so "squished" that I did not feel comfortable reusing them. Keep in mind, though, that the gaskets for the knock sensors and what not aren't gaskets in the sense that they are under pressure -- they're purpose is to keep debris from getting past them.
Old 12-04-2013, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by demonspeed
The new valley cover will come with everything you need. Replacing the other gaskets would only be necessary if there was a problem with them during removal. For instance, I did not anticipate needing manifold gaskets since I never seem to have any issues with those rubber gaskets no matter the mileage/age; however, they were so "squished" that I did not feel comfortable reusing them. Keep in mind, though, that the gaskets for the knock sensors and what not aren't gaskets in the sense that they are under pressure -- they're purpose is to keep debris from getting past them.
ahh you're right. I didn't fully read what I bought..haha. The valley cover comes with it's own gasket, and grommets for the knock sensors. So I guess the only thing I won't have is an intake manifold gasket. hmmmmmm

and on a side note, what would be the obvious symptoms of a bad intake manifold gasket, if, after re-installing the manifold, the gasket proves to be bad? loss of power? idle problems? overall decrease in engine performance?
Old 12-04-2013, 09:47 PM
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There are actually eight manifold gaskets -- one for each runner. They likely won't show any signs of damage; rather, they'll be so compressed in their "tightened" position that you'd risk having an air/vacuum leak once you put it all back together.
Old 12-05-2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by demonspeed
There are actually eight manifold gaskets -- one for each runner. They likely won't show any signs of damage; rather, they'll be so compressed in their "tightened" position that you'd risk having an air/vacuum leak once you put it all back together.
Chevy dealership is charging 85 bucks...sooo I guess I won't be doing this job this weekend! Damn
Old 12-05-2013, 05:42 PM
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Almost every/any parts store has the intake manifold gaskets in stock, due to them being used in all of the millions of LSx based, V-8 GM trucks made since '99 to what 2005?

Usually it is the Fel Pro brand which is fine, but some actually have the AC Delco ones for less than the dealers.
Old 12-05-2013, 06:03 PM
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I did this recently and from start to finish it took me an afternoon (hand tools and dremel for cutting)

thats also spending time degreasing the junk underneath the manifold and the manifold itself.
Old 12-05-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by giosoccer20
and on a side note, what would be the obvious symptoms of a bad intake manifold gasket, if, after re-installing the manifold, the gasket proves to be bad? loss of power? idle problems? overall decrease in engine performance?
Bad intake gaskets will have a rough idle and a vacuum leak obviously....

Best way to diagnose that will be to spray the intake with brake cleaner and listen for a raised idle... imo of course
Old 12-05-2013, 06:51 PM
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have pulled several lsx intakes and reuse same gaskets with no problem,
did the ls6 cover with no problems, as to grinding the block just go slow and do not over do it, I used duck tape to seal all openings AND lay the intake to the shop vac very close to the point of grinding, then re vac every thing then go over every thing with the stickey side of a price of duck tape,used auto parts house rubber hose( good injector hose ) to change up the PVC hookup
just my .02 Johnny
Old 12-05-2013, 06:58 PM
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All this talk about manifold gaskets.......get new ones. They're available everywhere and they're like $20.00.

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Old 12-05-2013, 06:58 PM
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My build thread shows you the cutting. It's not too bad as long as you don't have a cordless dremel.


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