LS6 valley cover install on f-body, how hard is it?
#1
LS6 valley cover install on f-body, how hard is it?
I found this good write-up http://www.ls1howto.com/?article=18
It doesn't look too complicated, but it looks like a lot can go wrong lol. How long should this project take? I'm comfortable with using all sorts of tools (dremel to cut the block), etc, and I've done plenty of other work on my cars, but never had to take an engine apart to such an extent. I know that accessing the back of these engines is a PITA. Is this definitely one of those job you can DYI on a Saturday morning? I'd like some input from people who've done this previously, and any difficulties or "events" they encountered and how they got around them!
It doesn't look too complicated, but it looks like a lot can go wrong lol. How long should this project take? I'm comfortable with using all sorts of tools (dremel to cut the block), etc, and I've done plenty of other work on my cars, but never had to take an engine apart to such an extent. I know that accessing the back of these engines is a PITA. Is this definitely one of those job you can DYI on a Saturday morning? I'd like some input from people who've done this previously, and any difficulties or "events" they encountered and how they got around them!
#4
-the ls6 valley cover, comes with vacuum cap
-will need a valve cover plug,
-I read that I can just get the proper size/length rubber fuel line from an auto store instead of ordering a specific pcv hose?
-And is that it?
P.S I can't/don't know how to find your thread demonspeed! lol
Last edited by giosoccer20; 12-04-2013 at 11:44 AM.
#6
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You probably can just get that line from a parts store, but I'm OCD and like to keep things as "GM" as possible. Further, I got all of the parts (sans the gaskets) for less than $100 shipped from GM Parts Direct. Just something to keep in mind if you don't want to be running around and just "plug and play."
What last call said -- it's in my sig
What last call said -- it's in my sig
#7
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Make sure you order a valley cover gasket, and knock sensor grommets/seals as well IF the LS6 cover you get does not come with it.
I have done the gasket, and KS grommets on my stock valley cover, not hard at all.
Just follow the torque specs/sequence in the Helms manual for EVERyTHING.
The only 'tricky' part I can see is being OCD about NOT getting any shavings/filings/bits of the corner of the ground/trimmed block into the lifter valley.
I have done the gasket, and KS grommets on my stock valley cover, not hard at all.
Just follow the torque specs/sequence in the Helms manual for EVERyTHING.
The only 'tricky' part I can see is being OCD about NOT getting any shavings/filings/bits of the corner of the ground/trimmed block into the lifter valley.
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#8
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Just an FYI......my valley cover that is on my new 390ci and it was on my old 427ci........definitely sucked a lot of oil mist out of the crankcase through that front vacuum port on the valley cover. My oil was being burned like crazy and I had no idea why. Everyone said that I should get a LS6 valley cover with my 427ci. So I had the builder add one in. Later when my oil was burning like crazy someone told me to get a clear piece of tubing to put on that valley cover port to see if oil is getting sucked through. It was ridiculous how much was going through it.
I capped that valley cover port off and my oil burning 100% stopped. Hooking the vacuum port to that valley cover port is way too much suction at idle, that's when all the oil mist gets pulled out.
Just sayin......
.
I capped that valley cover port off and my oil burning 100% stopped. Hooking the vacuum port to that valley cover port is way too much suction at idle, that's when all the oil mist gets pulled out.
Just sayin......
.
#9
You probably can just get that line from a parts store, but I'm OCD and like to keep things as "GM" as possible. Further, I got all of the parts (sans the gaskets) for less than $100 shipped from GM Parts Direct. Just something to keep in mind if you don't want to be running around and just "plug and play."
What last call said -- it's in my sig
What last call said -- it's in my sig
#10
Make sure you order a valley cover gasket, and knock sensor grommets/seals as well IF the LS6 cover you get does not come with it.
I have done the gasket, and KS grommets on my stock valley cover, not hard at all.
Just follow the torque specs/sequence in the Helms manual for EVERyTHING.
The only 'tricky' part I can see is being OCD about NOT getting any shavings/filings/bits of the corner of the ground/trimmed block into the lifter valley.
I have done the gasket, and KS grommets on my stock valley cover, not hard at all.
Just follow the torque specs/sequence in the Helms manual for EVERyTHING.
The only 'tricky' part I can see is being OCD about NOT getting any shavings/filings/bits of the corner of the ground/trimmed block into the lifter valley.
I'm asking because the writeup I posted didn't mention the need for any replacement gaskets, not even the manifold gasket.
#11
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Are replacing those gaskets absolutely necessary? I mean I know it's ideal, but I just wanted to get everything together by this saturday so I could do this job, but if I have to get those things I won't be able to.
I'm asking because the writeup I posted didn't mention the need for any replacement gaskets, not even the manifold gasket.
I'm asking because the writeup I posted didn't mention the need for any replacement gaskets, not even the manifold gasket.
#12
The new valley cover will come with everything you need. Replacing the other gaskets would only be necessary if there was a problem with them during removal. For instance, I did not anticipate needing manifold gaskets since I never seem to have any issues with those rubber gaskets no matter the mileage/age; however, they were so "squished" that I did not feel comfortable reusing them. Keep in mind, though, that the gaskets for the knock sensors and what not aren't gaskets in the sense that they are under pressure -- they're purpose is to keep debris from getting past them.
and on a side note, what would be the obvious symptoms of a bad intake manifold gasket, if, after re-installing the manifold, the gasket proves to be bad? loss of power? idle problems? overall decrease in engine performance?
#14
Chevy dealership is charging 85 bucks...sooo I guess I won't be doing this job this weekend! Damn
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Almost every/any parts store has the intake manifold gaskets in stock, due to them being used in all of the millions of LSx based, V-8 GM trucks made since '99 to what 2005?
Usually it is the Fel Pro brand which is fine, but some actually have the AC Delco ones for less than the dealers.
Usually it is the Fel Pro brand which is fine, but some actually have the AC Delco ones for less than the dealers.
#17
Best way to diagnose that will be to spray the intake with brake cleaner and listen for a raised idle... imo of course
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have pulled several lsx intakes and reuse same gaskets with no problem,
did the ls6 cover with no problems, as to grinding the block just go slow and do not over do it, I used duck tape to seal all openings AND lay the intake to the shop vac very close to the point of grinding, then re vac every thing then go over every thing with the stickey side of a price of duck tape,used auto parts house rubber hose( good injector hose ) to change up the PVC hookup
just my .02 Johnny
did the ls6 cover with no problems, as to grinding the block just go slow and do not over do it, I used duck tape to seal all openings AND lay the intake to the shop vac very close to the point of grinding, then re vac every thing then go over every thing with the stickey side of a price of duck tape,used auto parts house rubber hose( good injector hose ) to change up the PVC hookup
just my .02 Johnny