Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

I picked up an Improved Racing oil pan baffle to help combat some of the oil starvation issues these motors experience on the track (road courses).

I looked into removing the pan to install the baffle and it far surpasses my comfort level of something I would be willing to try myself (for a myriad of different reasons). In view of this, I'm definitely going to have a shop handle this and have a few questions:

1. Any idea what the flat book time is to drop the pan and reinstall? Would guess it's in the ballpark of 5 hours. Anyone else paid a shop to drop the pan? Curious to see what that set them back.

2. Since we're in there, are there other maintenance items I need to be looking at as well? The car is a 2002 with 67k miles and I can confirm I have the stock motor mounts.

Thanks for your help with this.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I keep getting quoted around $700 to do the job, I've got a oil pan gasket leak on my DD 3.8 v6

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I am not sure what book time is but I would expect a shop to charge anywhere from 5-7 hours of labor for dropping an oil pan and reinstalling. While I was in there I would do the obvious and replace the oil pan gasket but I would also do a set of polyurethane motor mounts because the factory motor mounts are inadequate at best.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Yuck -- and we're in the same general area so I guess that's right around what I would find as well.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Kyle -- the gasket is a definite and I was also thinking now would be the ideal time to go with either the Prothane or Energy Suspension poly motor mounts.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

You got it! Either the Prothane or Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts will work well for you, I have used both and they are pretty much equal to one another.

To bad you are not a little closer to Tampa because I could definitely help you out with the work for quite a bit less $$$.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I don't get why they charge so much for it, it shouldn't be that much work, from what I've read of guys on here doing it, i'm thinking about seeing what it would cost to have it done while the trans is out of the car (when it comes time to rebuild it here soon).

It made me consider getting a tubular K and having it all changed at once, atleast with a tubular K it would be super easy to do down the road.

knight_rider

Had to do mine last year to replace my leaking oil pan gasket. Mine cost $600 to do at an Aamco shop.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

It's honestly not that bad of a job to do yourself. Took me less than 5 hours including changing the motor mounts.

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

Good time to reverse those steering rack bolts too, they are almost impossible to get out as installed by GM with the bolt head against the oil pan.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

This is definitely something that needs to be done that way you can pull the steering rack out easily if you ever need to down the road.

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

I just replaced my oil pan gasket and I can tell you its a pain in the ***. Im not sure what the book rate is, but 5 hours sounds about right. If you have the drive its not really that hard to do yourself, it just takes a while. I would definitely do the motor mounts while its out and swap the r&p bolts. Actually, if you have the money and the desire, swapping a new tubular k member is only a couple extra bolts.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Anthony -- great recommendation. That's precisely the type of thing I would've missed!

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for all the help -- car's in the shop and I have the following on the hit list:

1. Install oil pan baffle. New oil pan gasket. Fresh oil change 10W-40 for upcoming track day.

2. Remove stock PS cooler and install auxiliary power steering cooler (Derale Frame Rail Cooler). Fresh Redline fluid.

3. Turn bolts on the steering rack.

4. Prothane poly motor mounts.

5. Little exhaust work to help with ground clearance.

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

Just use a good metallic locking nut.