superduper

I don't usually join forums, unless I have a problem I can't solve (that the internet isn't much help with either).

My 2001 Camaro is having an electrical/vats problem. I am still paying off a blown head gasket repair, so I'm trying to not take it to a dealer.

Once in a while (as i'm leaving for work, or something else important) my car won't start. With the door open, all electrical systems are fine. Key in ignition, turned to acc/on, everything still fine. All dash lights work properly, security light blinking normally. Once I turn the key to start, all power to the car dies. Sometimes disconnecting the battey terminals and reconnecting will help it start, sometimes it wont do a thing. Also, the gauges might flicker all the way up and then back down randomly while im sitting in my car despairing.

I had to take it in to get the oil sender replaced, and when I got in the car at the shop to take it home, it did the same thing. We tried to jump it from my dad's trans am, to no avail. The mechanic brought out a beefy battery charger, hooked it up to the secondary posts by the fuses, and it started fine.
On the way back home, I parked the car at a gas station (kept it running in an attempt to not get stuck) to check the oil pan, make sure it wasn't still leaking/running fine; as I started reversing out of the parking space, it died while running. That was an isolated incident, but i'm always worried it will happen again.

I thought it might be the key/vats, but the resistors in the key are fine. Same results with the secondary key that is never used.


So: either vats is going out somehow, ignition switch is bad, starter isn't getting power due to bad connections. Too many possible problems that I don't have the cash or the mechanical/electrical know-how to fix. I hope i've given enough to go on, and not to much. Thank you for any responses.

jaxcam02

iTrader: (1)

Time for the Vats bypass, can be done easy under $10 is you already have supplies and volt meter.

superduper

Thank you for the reply, I have a volt meter, just need to pick up some resistors for it. I think I'll replace the ignition switch while I'm at it, just in case.

CamaroWhoopAss

iTrader: (1)

Also a symptom of dead battery, or loose battery connection. Seen both instances on our cars over the years. Power to everything when I get in, turn the key and everything goes black. 2 things have caused that exact problem for me over the years: Loose battery connection on a Dodge neon; did this over and over till I realized the cable was loose on the terminal, then it was fine once adressed. The other was with a MR2 I just sold; sat for over 6 months but when I got in all the lights and guages worked. Tried to start and everything went black. Jumped it and it started right up; did this multiple times for a couple weeks until sold. The battery had enough juice to light up the dash, but when taxed with trying to turn the engine over, it crapped out an everything went black like you describe. If your battery isn't holding charge, it could be bad, or have a loose connection including corrosion, or the alternator isn't performing properly and charging it. Of course other things could cause the issues you are having including the vats, but I would start with the battery possibilities. Advance or autozone will test the battery for free. You already said when the mechanic jumped it, it started. Start with the battery...

Also you said sometimes diconnecting the cables then reconnecting helps, and that the gauges sometimes flicker up and down. Those specific issues sound like a loose connection.

big_g

This is what my car did when my battery was on its way out. Not sure it will solve all your problems, but battery tests are fast and free.

CamaroWhoopAss

iTrader: (1)

Exactly, always check what you can before buying **** that don't fix the problem in the end...

Nathan C

If the security light goes off a few seconds after starting the car up, then the problem isn't vats related.
Have you had the alternator tested?

LS1MONSTER

iTrader: (1)

Triple check that the battery cables are tight and secure to the battery. Triple check the battery posts are not leaking or loose.

If you ever replaced the battery because of the battery posts leaking, normally the acid will leak down into the cables and cause problems you can't see.

I had pretty much the same problem as you described. I replaced my battery cables and it solved the problem. The A/C Delco battery had leaked from the positive side prior to the issue.

HappySalesman

iTrader: (3)

This doesn't sound anything like a vats issue... What's the voltage of the batt at rest? At Idle? At 2k RPM?

Take the battery out and get it tested. When you try to start it, does the radio stay on?

CamaroWhoopAss

iTrader: (1)

12 days later and this guy aint back on here?