I followed, although not exactly, the well written instructions on how to replace the passenger window motor. I mistakenly drilled out the rivets that hold the regulator to the door, the "how to" was very good and I should have re-read it before getting my drill out. I was able to find the correct 3 rivets to disconnect the motor from the regulator and get the motor and regulator separated and that's where things fell apart for me. I can relocate the regulator rivets and I could even find some screws to hold it in place, my issue now is that the torsion spring came off and now I can't figure out how to get the regulator in place and get the spring in place at the same time while they are in the door.

The help I could use( I did use the search and found a lot of threads on the motor):

1) A write up on how to get the spring on while the regulator is in the door. I could find some very vague instructions that only said to remove from the big hole in the back of the door and then to install through the same hole.

2) A suggestion on what to use to secure the regulator to the door once the spring and regulator are all in place....

3) Am I better off removing the entire regulator assembly from the door to get the spring back on and then try and snake it all back in?

 

You are in big trouble, particularly if you need to get this resolved quickly.

GM warns to lock the regulator in place before drilling out the motor so it doesn't throw the spring. (You can easily also loose a hand from this. Hopefully you didn't get hurt?) There was one member here who successfully re-wound the thing on to the regulator, but the Factory Service Manual implies that it can't really be done safely. The path of least resistance may be to get a new regulator.

If you put the regulator back on the door with bolts, it will destroy the door panel/skin. You need to use special steel mandrel/aluminum jacket rivets for the regulator, available only from the dealer. You will also need an oversize door riveter to install them. (They are 1/4" rivets.)

1) There is no write up, but there is a member out there, who talks about doing the spring install.

2) The regulator has a hook on it, which hangs in one of the holes in the door, while you position it with the new rivets.

3) Yes, the regulator needs to come out, no matter what you do at this point. Take out the door speaker, which will make this a lot easier. You'll also want to have a helper hold the glass for you so it doesn't drop and break in the process. You may also loose some of the track grease as you do this. You can get some Syl-Glyde grease from NAPA, which is the original stuff in there. (If you use an incompatible grease, it could gum things up.)

 

I was able to remove the regulator from the door and get the new motor installed and cleaned and greased the wheels. I also got the torsion spring back on. It seems that it's going to be hit and miss to get it all back in the door. Does anyone have suggestions on where to position the regulator to make it easier to get back in? All the way up, all the way down? Half way?

 

About half way-ish. The arms should still make an "X" when they go in the door, but not one that's too spread out.

Do take the rivet issue straight on and look to get the proper rivets, from the dealer, in the door ASAP. This is the problem associated with bolting the regulator in place or using the wrong rivets and IT is a real pain: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html

 

You can get the correct type rivets from Fastenal: (non-sponsor link deleted)


You will also need a riveter that can do 1/4" rivets. Harbor Freight has one, but you can find the exact same design sold under many different names including Dorman. http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...tle-66422.html

I just replaced both of my regulators and I found it easiest to do with the window in the full down position, that way there was no way for it to fall and I could move it around as needed. Once you have 2 of the 3 rollers out (the ones closest to the rear of the door), the last one is easy to get out by simply lifting up the regulator and pushing the arm towards the front of the door. This will cause the roller in the window track to be pushed towards the rear of the door and you can then pull it out of the window track.

 

The link you posted was not for the correct rivet. They are not peel rivets.

 

I saw a thread a while back where someone was in the same situation and they ended up just cutting out a metal plate to bolt on the door. They drilled new holes through the door to mount the plate then just mounted the regulator in the same location.

But I may go with option three and pull the whole thing out. It's probably your safest route. I did the mistake of pulling the whole thing out a couple years ago and it was a real struggle loading that spring back up. Maybe have someone help you or use a vice. I didn't put the rivets back in, I just got some washers that had a rubber seat to lock it in place. There are bolts that have a rough base. I would also use the locking bolts so it doesn't vibrate itself loose over time.

 

This will stress out the door panel and cause it to rip. The special aluminum jacket, steel mandrel rivets are for the composite door skin and keep this from happening.


This is the fix for situations where the door skin is destroyed due to rivet damage or using the wrong hardware on the regulator. It's a real PITA and not something anyone wants to choose to do.