If the car sits overnight/several hrs, it won't crank!!
06-18-2016, 05:57 PM
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06-19-2016, 05:39 AM
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You also mentioned a reading of "12.4" volts previously. This was not the draw, so I'm wondering if you were just reading battery voltage. If so, that's a very low reading for a battery that was connected to a recently running engine. Definitely a problem, or a bad multi-meter.
06-19-2016, 09:58 AM
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You stated previously that this was not the case. With both the old and new battery.
You also mentioned a reading of "12.4" volts previously. This was not the draw, so I'm wondering if you were just reading battery voltage. If so, that's a very low reading for a battery that was connected to a recently running engine. Definitely a problem, or a bad multi-meter.
You also mentioned a reading of "12.4" volts previously. This was not the draw, so I'm wondering if you were just reading battery voltage. If so, that's a very low reading for a battery that was connected to a recently running engine. Definitely a problem, or a bad multi-meter.
I tried testing for parasitic draw today with a non-LED test light & it now looks like I do not have a draw at all. The test light lights initially & then quickly goes out. I did verify the light is working properly as well.
06-19-2016, 01:32 PM
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If voltage is well above 14 with the engine running then you're getting a charge. And if the draw test shows no significant draw, but your battery voltage is still only 12.4 immediately after engine shutdown then you either have a bad multi-meter or a bad battery.
I can't stress enough how that voltage is not acceptable if the battery was just being charged by a running engine. Mine has to sit for at least 3 weeks with the battery connected to drop into the 12.4x volt range. If that's happening to yours in a matter of minutes, and there is no big draw, and the alternator is charging properly, then you have a battery issue.
06-19-2016, 03:13 PM
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Had to fight w/the guy at Autozone, but I got a new battery. Got home & tested it (Drove the car to there & back) & it's reading 12.6 now. It has to be a draw somewhere, no? But then why would the test light not stay lit?
12.4 is too low if the engine was just recently running. It should be over 12.6 unless there is a significant draw happening immediately after engine shutdown (it would have to be pretty big to knock voltage down to 12.4 on a healthy battery that was just being charged by a running engine.)
If voltage is well above 14 with the engine running then you're getting a charge. And if the draw test shows no significant draw, but your battery voltage is still only 12.4 immediately after engine shutdown then you either have a bad multi-meter or a bad battery.
I can't stress enough how that voltage is not acceptable if the battery was just being charged by a running engine. Mine has to sit for at least 3 weeks with the battery connected to drop into the 12.4x volt range. If that's happening to yours in a matter of minutes, and there is no big draw, and the alternator is charging properly, then you have a battery issue.
If voltage is well above 14 with the engine running then you're getting a charge. And if the draw test shows no significant draw, but your battery voltage is still only 12.4 immediately after engine shutdown then you either have a bad multi-meter or a bad battery.
I can't stress enough how that voltage is not acceptable if the battery was just being charged by a running engine. Mine has to sit for at least 3 weeks with the battery connected to drop into the 12.4x volt range. If that's happening to yours in a matter of minutes, and there is no big draw, and the alternator is charging properly, then you have a battery issue.
06-19-2016, 06:05 PM
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Test light not staying lit means either it was not done correctly or there is no drain, I'm going for the latter. But as RPM WS6 stated your battery did not have good voltage to start with so in all likelihood you had a bad one from the word go. You'll have to leave it hooked up and see what happens in the morning.
06-21-2016, 05:56 PM
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Looks like the VATS was screwing with me & causing my issues, I guess. 2 days so far with the battery hooked up 24/7 & she starts every day after I messed with the resistor I put in for the VATS bypass. However, I now have a Baker bypass box on the way just to be safe. Anyone hook one of these up? What 12v power wire & what ground is best near the BCM? Also, I noticed 2 dark blue wires in a diagram I looked at so which one of them am I supposed to hook the bypass box to? Pics of everything would be awesome, thanks!