Steering Rack Upgrade?
Steering Rack Upgrade? Does anyone know of an upgraded steering rack I can buy for my 95 trans am? I replaced all steering components (rag joint eliminator, steering rack [ac delco reman], moog tie rods and ball joints) but I have some slop in the steering still. It seems to be coming from the steering rack - if I have someone wiggle the steering wheel ~10 degrees or so, I can watch the input to the rack move but the tie rods stay still. you can put one finger on the wheel with the engine off/key on and easily push the steering wheel bak and forth about 5-10 degrees before it gives any resistance. From there on it's perfect, just that first little bit of motion that doesn't do anything.
Is this typical with a reman rack? I'm not sure if I have just gotten spoiled by my BMW M5, but every time I drive the trans am it feels like I'm going to drive off the road until I get used to the slop. Any help would be much appreciated!
Is this typical with a reman rack? I'm not sure if I have just gotten spoiled by my BMW M5, but every time I drive the trans am it feels like I'm going to drive off the road until I get used to the slop. Any help would be much appreciated!
You may find this thread helpful/interesting: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-steering.html
Are you sure that you don't have any looseness in your rag joint eliminator or that connection of the shaft to the rack?
On these older cars, we commonly have problems with all sorts of reman components. Power Steering parts are a common problem. If you give up on this rack, I highly recommend calling TurnOne for your solution. Many of us have had phenomenal experiences with them supplying and rebuilding our pumps. (I recall that they recently got in to racks.) When I am ready for a new rack, my original one will definitely be shipped to them for the work. They really know this stuff and seem to take much more care in the work vs. whatever sweatshop rebuilds the parts that come from the local parts store.
Are you sure that you don't have any looseness in your rag joint eliminator or that connection of the shaft to the rack?
On these older cars, we commonly have problems with all sorts of reman components. Power Steering parts are a common problem. If you give up on this rack, I highly recommend calling TurnOne for your solution. Many of us have had phenomenal experiences with them supplying and rebuilding our pumps. (I recall that they recently got in to racks.) When I am ready for a new rack, my original one will definitely be shipped to them for the work. They really know this stuff and seem to take much more care in the work vs. whatever sweatshop rebuilds the parts that come from the local parts store.
thanks wssix99, I was looking for a thread like this but couldn't find one.
I will double check all bolts just to make sure, but I tightened them down really well when I re-assembled everything. But it sounds like this is a common problem so I will double check before I buy anything else.
If everything is tight and it is the rack, maybe I'll send my old rack to TurnOne and have them rebuild it-my only concern was whether they would actually do anything if the pinion gear itself is worn. I know they replace all the seals and what not, but if the steering gear is worn I'll end up in the same spot I am in now with the reman rack I just got from AC Delco. I wish I could buy a new OEM one of these.
I will double check all bolts just to make sure, but I tightened them down really well when I re-assembled everything. But it sounds like this is a common problem so I will double check before I buy anything else.
If everything is tight and it is the rack, maybe I'll send my old rack to TurnOne and have them rebuild it-my only concern was whether they would actually do anything if the pinion gear itself is worn. I know they replace all the seals and what not, but if the steering gear is worn I'll end up in the same spot I am in now with the reman rack I just got from AC Delco. I wish I could buy a new OEM one of these.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Jun 23, 2016 at 08:13 AM. Reason: spelling
If everything is tight and it is the rack, maybe I'll send my old rack to TurnOne and have them rebuild it-my only concern was whether they would actually do anything if the pinion gear itself is worn. I know they replace all the seals and what not, but if the steering gear is worn I'll end up in the same spot I am in now with the reman rack I just got from AC Delco. I wish I could buy a new OEM one of these.
Thanks again, that's great to hear.
I'll double check the various bolts and linkages tonight, if it still looks like the rack that's the problem I'll give them a call.
Greatly appreciate your help, saved me a ton of head scratching!
I'll double check the various bolts and linkages tonight, if it still looks like the rack that's the problem I'll give them a call.
Greatly appreciate your help, saved me a ton of head scratching!
Good to know. I am ok with the steering ratio as is, I am just after play/slop. Sounds like they will be able to make one of these as good as new in that case.
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I double checked all the bolts on the steering linkages and I torqued them to spec (35ft pounds both top and bottom bolts on intermediate shaft) but I still have the play. I had a friend turn the wheel again while I was watching and after looking at it closely, the play is all coming from the intermediate shaft. A little bit is in the upper universal joint and a little bit is from the lower universal shaft, so between the two of them it becomes quite a bit of play, the issue is just with the intermediate shaft.
So i need to get a new intermediate shaft. Only problem is I can only seem to fine used ones and they will probably be just as beat up as mine. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a new one anywhere?
I did see that some people switch to the LS1 knuckle, but that requires the LS1 rack and since the new rack I just put it looks good I'd rather not change it. Anyone know of any options to replace the LT1 intermediate shaft?
So i need to get a new intermediate shaft. Only problem is I can only seem to fine used ones and they will probably be just as beat up as mine. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a new one anywhere?
I did see that some people switch to the LS1 knuckle, but that requires the LS1 rack and since the new rack I just put it looks good I'd rather not change it. Anyone know of any options to replace the LT1 intermediate shaft?
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Verdad Gallardo Try Flaming River. We've had some people use their high end (expensive) stuff and get some great results. I'm not sure I've seen anyone go for the lower end stuff, but I would think that it would be just as solid for a daily driver.
Thanks guys-I don't mind spending a few hundred to get something that will be good quality. I just don't want to spend 50 or 100 and be right back where I started.
I'm looking at the flaming river stuff now. I'm thinking about getting two universal joints and some DD shaft and just making my own setup. Does anyone know the differenced between the traditional block and pin u joints and the needle bearing setup? I'm assuming needle bearing = no need to lube, and I could see how it would last longer.
Also, does anyone know the size of the splined input to the steering rack? I think it is 5/8-36 but I am having a hard time confirming. I'm assuming flaming river's joints will hook up to the steering rack as long as I get the right size/spline count-I can't exactly tell how they lock in compared to stock.
I'm looking at the flaming river stuff now. I'm thinking about getting two universal joints and some DD shaft and just making my own setup. Does anyone know the differenced between the traditional block and pin u joints and the needle bearing setup? I'm assuming needle bearing = no need to lube, and I could see how it would last longer.
Also, does anyone know the size of the splined input to the steering rack? I think it is 5/8-36 but I am having a hard time confirming. I'm assuming flaming river's joints will hook up to the steering rack as long as I get the right size/spline count-I can't exactly tell how they lock in compared to stock.
Thanks guys-I don't mind spending a few hundred to get something that will be good quality. I just don't want to spend 50 or 100 and be right back where I started.
I'm looking at the flaming river stuff now. I'm thinking about getting two universal joints and some DD shaft and just making my own setup. Does anyone know the differenced between the traditional block and pin u joints and the needle bearing setup? I'm assuming needle bearing = no need to lube, and I could see how it would last longer.
Also, does anyone know the size of the splined input to the steering rack? I think it is 5/8-36 but I am having a hard time confirming. I'm assuming flaming river's joints will hook up to the steering rack as long as I get the right size/spline count-I can't exactly tell how they lock in compared to stock.
I'm looking at the flaming river stuff now. I'm thinking about getting two universal joints and some DD shaft and just making my own setup. Does anyone know the differenced between the traditional block and pin u joints and the needle bearing setup? I'm assuming needle bearing = no need to lube, and I could see how it would last longer.
Also, does anyone know the size of the splined input to the steering rack? I think it is 5/8-36 but I am having a hard time confirming. I'm assuming flaming river's joints will hook up to the steering rack as long as I get the right size/spline count-I can't exactly tell how they lock in compared to stock.
Update: I took the intermediate shaft off, and it turns out the universal joints were fine, but there was some play in the collapsible center portion of the shaft. one of the DD shafts slides into the other one, and it looks like there is a plastic core that pins the two together. That had come apart to the point that I was able to easily just pull the shaft apart. So I lined it up where it was supposed to be, drilled through the shaft where the pins used to be and put a couple grade 8 bolts and nuts through it and torqued them down. Reinstalled the shaft and the steering is much better.
However, there is still some play in the steering. Instead of the 1" or so of play I was getting in the wheel, now it is more like 1/2". I had my buddy move the wheel back and forth and I could see that the input shaft to the rack was moving exactly as much as the wheel, but the tie rods don't budge until you move the wheel a couple degrees. So I am back to where I started, albeit with less play then before. I'm going to call up TurnOne and talk to them about rebuilding my rack and replacing the rack and pinion gears with new ones if they can.
Thanks for all your help as I work through this!
However, there is still some play in the steering. Instead of the 1" or so of play I was getting in the wheel, now it is more like 1/2". I had my buddy move the wheel back and forth and I could see that the input shaft to the rack was moving exactly as much as the wheel, but the tie rods don't budge until you move the wheel a couple degrees. So I am back to where I started, albeit with less play then before. I'm going to call up TurnOne and talk to them about rebuilding my rack and replacing the rack and pinion gears with new ones if they can.
Thanks for all your help as I work through this!
my 2002 ss with ~75k miles, jack one front wheel off the ground have other side on the ground, can wiggle wheel holding it at 9 and 3 o'clock positions and watch the shaft in the rack (where the inner tie rod screws in to) move in and out about 1/16" to 1/8".
if yours does that, don't waste your time with anything else, you need a new rack.
Trying to adjust the preload on the rack via adjustment nut was zero help for me, you might try it but don't get your hopes up.
if yours does that, don't waste your time with anything else, you need a new rack.
Trying to adjust the preload on the rack via adjustment nut was zero help for me, you might try it but don't get your hopes up.