Belt Tensioner Assembly Replacement?
Last edited by Mike1711; Sep 11, 2018 at 12:46 PM.
At the age of these cars, all the pulleys on the tensioners are also going to squeak. When one is replaced, the next one can be heard. Squeaks like this often take a while to nail all the way down and eliminate fully.
The tensioner has marks on it, which you can visually check:

There are two raised notches on the side of the spring mechanism that attaches to your engine (other end from the pulley) and one raised notch on the arm that holds the pulley. The single notch is supposed to be in the middle of the two notches for normal operation. If your single notch is between the double notches on your car and that situation doesn't change when the engine is revved - then your mechanic is peddling you a bunch of BS.
If the tensioner is loose (you can move it by hand, without a bar) or if the notches move around when the engine revs, then the tensioner is bad.
If the tensioner isn't bad and the single notch is outside of the doubles, then that typically means that the belt is stretched or the wrong size.
Noises that happen when the car starts (cold) and go away over time (warm) are typically due to temperature or expansion/contraction. You may have a bad tensioner pulley, but that's no reason to change the tensioner. (The pulley, like all the other pulleys, can be changed individually.)
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Get a tensioner with a metal vs plastic pulley
The separate "idler" pulley may also need replacing.
Best to just pop the belt off and spin the various pulleys and accessories to confirm all turn freely and do not bind or make noise. Replace any as needed.
These are all fairly simple "front of motor" things to replace with simple hand tools
Shop charging $250 to replace a $50 part that will take 10-15 minutes is a very high price to pay for a very simple job
replace the belt also
I would trust but verify on this one... Actually, I would probably just verify and not necessarily trust at all. This doesn't sound right and life (on a car like we have isn't so simple.)
At the age of these cars, all the pulleys on the tensioners are also going to squeak. When one is replaced, the next one can be heard. Squeaks like this often take a while to nail all the way down and eliminate fully.
The tensioner has marks on it, which you can visually check:

There are two raised notches on the side of the spring mechanism that attaches to your engine (other end from the pulley) and one raised notch on the arm that holds the pulley. The single notch is supposed to be in the middle of the two notches for normal operation. If your single notch is between the double notches on your car and that situation doesn't change when the engine is revved - then your mechanic is peddling you a bunch of BS.
If the tensioner is loose (you can move it by hand, without a bar) or if the notches move around when the engine revs, then the tensioner is bad.
If the tensioner isn't bad and the single notch is outside of the doubles, then that typically means that the belt is stretched or the wrong size.
hi hi so basically it can be a bad belt or bad tensioner? The belt is the correct size. The squeaks starts when you turn on the cold start but once the car gets warm the squeak goes away.
Noises that happen when the car starts (cold) and go away over time (warm) are typically due to temperature or expansion/contraction. You may have a bad tensioner pulley, but that's no reason to change the tensioner. (The pulley, like all the other pulleys, can be changed individually.)
My '01 Z28 has the original main tensioner with 110k on it and it's fine. The problem I had a while ago was with the a/c tensioner, the tensioner itself wears and causes the pulley to tilt and the belt runs across the pulley sideways making it squeak.
Doesn't matter if the a/c is on or not.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=960308&cc=1305436&jsn=381
belts stretch and get harder when they age so they can slip and also the belt tensioner "spring" wears so it des not keep the intended tension on te belt. Common to replace belt tensioner when replacing a belt
Looks like a belt, tensioner and idler pulley come as a kit also which may be the better path to take. $65 for all
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9118168&cc=1305436&jsn=386
IDK if you have AC but the above are for AC cars. Different part # for cars without AC











