Power Steering Pump leak [apparently]
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 126
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Power Steering Pump leak [apparently] Hi,
I have apparently got a leak from the Power Steering Pump in my 01 WS6 TA. My friend who is a mechanic looked at it the other day and said that's what's happening because he saw gunk all over the top of the alternator. The car had been eating alternators for awhile and we were trying to figure out why.
Anyhow, I guess I should get the PS pump replaced, but, tbh, it doesn't seem to be losing hardly any fluid, if any at all. My buddy said that Lucas makes some Stop Leak for power steering pumps and that it works great, so get some and use it.
So I got some, but I haven't used it because I thought I would check in here to see what the reaction is. Not really doubting my friend, because I believe he's a good mechanic, has his own shop in 'West Palm and has been nothing but a very good guy as far as giving helpful advice. I hear Lucas makes good products, I'm just curious to see if anyone on this Forum has any comments on this.
Thanks,
fastertransam
I have apparently got a leak from the Power Steering Pump in my 01 WS6 TA. My friend who is a mechanic looked at it the other day and said that's what's happening because he saw gunk all over the top of the alternator. The car had been eating alternators for awhile and we were trying to figure out why.
Anyhow, I guess I should get the PS pump replaced, but, tbh, it doesn't seem to be losing hardly any fluid, if any at all. My buddy said that Lucas makes some Stop Leak for power steering pumps and that it works great, so get some and use it.
So I got some, but I haven't used it because I thought I would check in here to see what the reaction is. Not really doubting my friend, because I believe he's a good mechanic, has his own shop in 'West Palm and has been nothing but a very good guy as far as giving helpful advice. I hear Lucas makes good products, I'm just curious to see if anyone on this Forum has any comments on this.
Thanks,
fastertransam
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,643
Likes: 2,571
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I'm not a fan of any "stop leak" products for any fluid system. I'm a bit surprised that a mechanic would recommend this rather than a proper repair. With these products you are introducing a compound into the system which it wasn't designed to receive, so this is far from an ideal solution (and then, if it doesn't work and you have to fix the leak properly anyway, you still have this gunk in the system).
But, it doesn't sound like there is any significant loss of PS fluid in the first place. If the PS pump doesn't appear to be noticeably losing any fluid over short periods, then the build-up on the alternator is migrating from somewhere else or is just general engine grime (of which the PS pump/lines might be a partial, slow growth contributor). I don't think this has anything to do with your repeated alternator failures, that's more likely the result of cheap parts store rebuilds (few of them last very long). OEM and Powermaster are the only brands of alternator I would ever suggest.
FWIW, when I had my '02 Z28 as a daily driver it used to have general engine grime covering the alternator as well, and that never led to any premature nor frequent failures.
But, it doesn't sound like there is any significant loss of PS fluid in the first place. If the PS pump doesn't appear to be noticeably losing any fluid over short periods, then the build-up on the alternator is migrating from somewhere else or is just general engine grime (of which the PS pump/lines might be a partial, slow growth contributor). I don't think this has anything to do with your repeated alternator failures, that's more likely the result of cheap parts store rebuilds (few of them last very long). OEM and Powermaster are the only brands of alternator I would ever suggest.
FWIW, when I had my '02 Z28 as a daily driver it used to have general engine grime covering the alternator as well, and that never led to any premature nor frequent failures.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
I'm not a fan of any "stop leak" products for any fluid system. I'm a bit surprised that a mechanic would recommend this rather than a proper repair. With these products you are introducing a compound into the system which it wasn't designed to receive, so this is far from an ideal solution (and then, if it doesn't work and you have to fix the leak properly anyway, you still have this gunk in the system).
But, it doesn't sound like there is any significant loss of PS fluid in the first place. If the PS pump doesn't appear to be noticeably losing any fluid over short periods, then the build-up on the alternator is migrating from somewhere else or is just general engine grime (of which the PS pump/lines might be a partial, slow growth contributor). I don't think this has anything to do with your repeated alternator failures, that's more likely the result of cheap parts store rebuilds (few of them last very long). OEM and Powermaster are the only brands of alternator I would ever suggest.
FWIW, when I had my '02 Z28 as a daily driver it used to have general engine grime covering the alternator as well, and that never led to any premature nor frequent failures.
But, it doesn't sound like there is any significant loss of PS fluid in the first place. If the PS pump doesn't appear to be noticeably losing any fluid over short periods, then the build-up on the alternator is migrating from somewhere else or is just general engine grime (of which the PS pump/lines might be a partial, slow growth contributor). I don't think this has anything to do with your repeated alternator failures, that's more likely the result of cheap parts store rebuilds (few of them last very long). OEM and Powermaster are the only brands of alternator I would ever suggest.
FWIW, when I had my '02 Z28 as a daily driver it used to have general engine grime covering the alternator as well, and that never led to any premature nor frequent failures.
+1 - The stuff about P/S fluid causing failed alternators is urban myth. The electronics inside are fully sealed from water (kicked up from the road, etc.) and aren't bothered by any oils.
If you have problems with "new" alternators going out, they are probably bad remans or low quality units. This is a common issue for the F-body cars. You'll also find additional myths about needing to upgrade the alternator to a new model or truck alternator in order to combat the problem - that's not true, either. It's just solved with a good quality unit.
The P/S overflow is a common problem with the F-body; one which we have many threads on. Over the years, a number of us have experimented with things and found that the problem occurs only with old/dirty P/S fluid. So, if you do a complete flush of the fluid, your boil-overs should stop.
Not a take-it-to-a-mechanic for a "machine flush", but a real flush. Drain the reservoir. Disconnect the return line and run it into a bucket. Plug the return nipple on the reservoir or hook up another hose and put a U-bend in it so fluid doesn't get out. Get a few quarts of P/S fluid. Then have a friend turn on the car and move the steering lock-to-lock while you pour fluid in and make sure the pump doesn't run dry. When you've cycled clean fluid through the system, then you are all set.
If you have problems with "new" alternators going out, they are probably bad remans or low quality units. This is a common issue for the F-body cars. You'll also find additional myths about needing to upgrade the alternator to a new model or truck alternator in order to combat the problem - that's not true, either. It's just solved with a good quality unit.
The P/S overflow is a common problem with the F-body; one which we have many threads on. Over the years, a number of us have experimented with things and found that the problem occurs only with old/dirty P/S fluid. So, if you do a complete flush of the fluid, your boil-overs should stop.
Not a take-it-to-a-mechanic for a "machine flush", but a real flush. Drain the reservoir. Disconnect the return line and run it into a bucket. Plug the return nipple on the reservoir or hook up another hose and put a U-bend in it so fluid doesn't get out. Get a few quarts of P/S fluid. Then have a friend turn on the car and move the steering lock-to-lock while you pour fluid in and make sure the pump doesn't run dry. When you've cycled clean fluid through the system, then you are all set.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
+1 - The stuff about P/S fluid causing failed alternators is urban myth. The electronics inside are fully sealed from water (kicked up from the road, etc.) and aren't bothered by any oils.
If you have problems with "new" alternators going out, they are probably bad remans or low quality units. This is a common issue for the F-body cars. You'll also find additional myths about needing to upgrade the alternator to a new model or truck alternator in order to combat the problem - that's not true, either. It's just solved with a good quality unit.
The P/S overflow is a common problem with the F-body; one which we have many threads on. Over the years, a number of us have experimented with things and found that the problem occurs only with old/dirty P/S fluid. So, if you do a complete flush of the fluid, your boil-overs should stop.
Not a take-it-to-a-mechanic for a "machine flush", but a real flush. Drain the reservoir. Disconnect the return line and run it into a bucket. Plug the return nipple on the reservoir or hook up another hose and put a U-bend in it so fluid doesn't get out. Get a few quarts of P/S fluid. Then have a friend turn on the car and move the steering lock-to-lock while you pour fluid in and make sure the pump doesn't run dry. When you've cycled clean fluid through the system, then you are all set.
If you have problems with "new" alternators going out, they are probably bad remans or low quality units. This is a common issue for the F-body cars. You'll also find additional myths about needing to upgrade the alternator to a new model or truck alternator in order to combat the problem - that's not true, either. It's just solved with a good quality unit.
The P/S overflow is a common problem with the F-body; one which we have many threads on. Over the years, a number of us have experimented with things and found that the problem occurs only with old/dirty P/S fluid. So, if you do a complete flush of the fluid, your boil-overs should stop.
Not a take-it-to-a-mechanic for a "machine flush", but a real flush. Drain the reservoir. Disconnect the return line and run it into a bucket. Plug the return nipple on the reservoir or hook up another hose and put a U-bend in it so fluid doesn't get out. Get a few quarts of P/S fluid. Then have a friend turn on the car and move the steering lock-to-lock while you pour fluid in and make sure the pump doesn't run dry. When you've cycled clean fluid through the system, then you are all set.
Thanks for the info. Lots to learn here. I'm not in a position to do this myself and have no one to help me. Is there a suggestion as to what exactly I should ask of a shop to get it done right as you as recommending?
Thanks,
fastertransam
I would just tell a shop that you want a complete P/S fluid change and ask them if they can give you a price to completely drain and then flush the system instead of using a machine. (Many shops will have a machine that will circulate the fluid and do all the exchange at the reservoir and don't completely remove all the bad stuff.)
The price to do it like we would in our driveway may be outrageous and your mechanic may not want to spend the time or mess on it. If so, you can try a machine flush and see if it does the job. If so, you would probably just need to do it more often than a complete drain and re-fill.
The price to do it like we would in our driveway may be outrageous and your mechanic may not want to spend the time or mess on it. If so, you can try a machine flush and see if it does the job. If so, you would probably just need to do it more often than a complete drain and re-fill.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,643
Likes: 2,571
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
You can get by with something that's less than a complete flush as long as you do it somewhat frequently, but I definitely agree with the idea of a thorough fluid change initially.
FWIW, I've never done a "complete" flush on my '98, but I've been doing partial changes every 1-2 years for the last 15 years. At nearly 22 years old, and with the original cap, I get zero boil-over or any other PS operational issues of any kind. So if you can get the system clean and then maintain it with regular, partial fluid changes, then you probably don't need to go through the hassle of a major system flush on a regular basis. The exception to this might be if you use the car in RR/Auto-X type competition, where regular flushes are probably the best practice.
As a side note, I'd take this opportunity to delete the factory PS cooler if you haven't already. They are a very common failure point and, being a fluid-to-fluid cooler type, when the failure does happen it will contaminate both the cooling and the PS system - and this requires a major clean-up of both systems.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
As a side note, I'd take this opportunity to delete the factory PS cooler if you haven't already. They are a very common failure point and, being a fluid-to-fluid cooler type, when the failure does happen it will contaminate both the cooling and the PS system - and this requires a major clean-up of both systems.
Hmmm. Well the PS cooler did fail sometime ago and I had to replace it with a used one I bought from Hawks Third Gen. It seemed to work great, but Hmmmmm.
Best,
fastertransam
Last edited by fastertransam; Dec 7, 2019 at 11:38 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo We have a "Power Steering Cooling Success" thread in the stickies that shows how to add an aftermarket cooler that can not contaminate the coolant. There's a lot of aimless rambling in the thread and it is long, but there are also years of experience relayed. The two conclusions in there (other than the instructive parts) are:
- The cooler isn't needed for daily driving
- Keeping clean fluid in the system and doing regular flushes is more beneficial than cooling
- The cooler isn't needed for daily driving
- Keeping clean fluid in the system and doing regular flushes is more beneficial than cooling