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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 10:08 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by fastertransam
So I had the MAF sensor replaced and that code is gone. I also had the starter replaced, and the car starts now. HOWEVER, it still runs like crap and gets about 7-10 mpg. So I had a couple of people say that there is a vacuum leak in connection with the intake manifold gasket. One guy sprayed brake cleaner on in and, although he said it was idling up when he did it before, it did nothing when he tried to show it to me. Another guy [the guy who replaced the starter] sprayed it at various places around the manifold and it was causing the car to miss. I actually saw that happen.

Could it be the Intake Manifold gasket causing all this stuff? I already bought an O2 sensor so I guess I will just have that installed along with whatever else gets done. Or should I wait, or what? Any advice on the gasket replacement job? I've been told a few different things by different mechanics, as usual. I thought the gasket set was just one pre-cut piece, but one guy says there are actually an upper and a lower piece and that I need to do both. He also says I need to have the coils replaced or something to that effect. I'm in an area where its tough to find a reliable, honest shop for some reason. Another problem seems to be that they see a guy coming with what they consider a "special" car, and they figure I'll do anything, at any price, to get it fixed.
There are individual gaskets for each runner, and no "upper and lower" like on many other engines. This points up why it's important to have someone who knows LS motors and operating systems advising you (basically anyone competent enough to work on 99 & up Chevy pickups).

Originally Posted by wssix99
Please put your area in your profile.
If we know where you live, we can possibly direct you to somebody who can give you reliable advice - maybe even for free. You may also want to search the regional forums.
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 12:42 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by RevGTO
There are individual gaskets for each runner, and no "upper and lower" like on many other engines. This points up why it's important to have someone who knows LS motors and operating systems advising you (basically anyone competent enough to work on 99 & up Chevy pickups).
Thanks. Do I want the “valley pan” set or the other one?

If we know where you live, we can possibly direct you to somebody who can give you reliable advice - maybe even for free. You may also want to search the regional forums.
Florida. Melbourne / Palm Bay Area.


Best,

fastertransam

Last edited by fastertransam; Feb 2, 2020 at 01:13 AM.
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 01:12 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Yes, air entering the system from behind the MAF sensor would lean out the mix and could throw the code. (The Oxygen sensor could be sensing a condition different than the other sensors, including the MAF, would expect.)

If you are low on funds, I would hold back on the new O2 sensor. Change one thing at a time.
Well it’s not actually running lean, that’s for sure. I already bought the O2 sensor a while ago, and the P1133 has something to do with O2 sensor weirdness. Its my understanding that its a minimal labor job so I may go ahead and get that done. I’m also wondering if it’s the purge valve, because it’s way worse when the gas tank is full..

Best,

fastertransam

Last edited by fastertransam; Feb 2, 2020 at 03:08 AM.
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 07:50 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by fastertransam
Its my understanding that its a minimal labor job so I may go ahead and get that done.
It is a minimal labor job, but if you can get your money back for the part, it's worth saving your $150-$250. 99% of the time, it's a simple swap, but it is NOT without risk. The O2 sensor is under high heat and the threads have a special anti-seize compound to make sure they don't weld themselves to the headers and pipes. I had one where that didn't work... (Still not sure if a dealer doing a warranty repair took it off and didn't re-compound it or if it came from the factory with the defect.) The threads stripped when the old one came out and the 10 minute job turned into 6 hour job that required a $200 thread repair kit. (Which a mechanic would charge us back $400 for.)


Originally Posted by fastertransam
Well it’s not actually running lean, that’s for sure. I already bought the O2 sensor a while ago, and the P1133 has something to do with O2 sensor weirdness.
The code doesn't tell you how things ARE. It tells you how things WERE. Your code means that at one point in time, the O2 sensor measured a lean condition in the exhaust. The car may be going into open loop or dumping more gas into the engine to compensate for that condition it found.

One thing at a time.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:37 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by wssix99
It is a minimal labor job, but if you can get your money back for the part, it's worth saving your $150-$250. 99% of the time, it's a simple swap, but it is NOT without risk. The O2 sensor is under high heat and the threads have a special anti-seize compound to make sure they don't weld themselves to the headers and pipes. I had one where that didn't work... (Still not sure if a dealer doing a warranty repair took it off and didn't re-compound it or if it came from the factory with the defect.) The threads stripped when the old one came out and the 10 minute job turned into 6 hour job that required a $200 thread repair kit. (Which a mechanic would charge us back $400 for.)




The code doesn't tell you how things ARE. It tells you how things WERE. Your code means that at one point in time, the O2 sensor measured a lean condition in the exhaust. The car may be going into open loop or dumping more gas into the engine to compensate for that condition it found.

One thing at a time.
I don’t know if I can get my money back on the O2 sensor or not. Bought from Rock auto and not expensive.

It is been throwing codes related to the O2 sensor forever, and before the running rough weirdness. I’ve cleared the codes a zillion times and it keeps coming back with them, so its probably reasonable to think the O2 sensor is backed. I dunno. I think I could probably get it done along with the other work. But I hear you about the "one thing at a time" strategy. That’s good trouble shooting practice to figure out exactly what the problem really was. Maybe I’ll have them do the intake manifold, then check the car, and if it’s not running perfectly then do the O2 sensor. Or I guess it could go the other way around. But when the guy sprayed brake cleaner on the manifold it definitely made it miss, so there is something going on there.

The saga continues ha ha.

Best,

fastertransam

Last edited by fastertransam; Feb 3, 2020 at 03:04 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2020 | 11:28 PM
  #46  
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I've been told to stick with Bosch or NTK O2 sensors on these cars. The cheap ones tend to not be as reliable.
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