Rough running '01 WS6 TA
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On The Tree
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Rough running '01 WS6 TA Hi,
My 2001 WS6 Trans Am [manual trans.] is running rough again. It had been throwing a MAF sensor code, which seemed to be the reason, or one of them. My mechanic buddy told me to unplug the MAF sensor, and, sure enough, it started running smooth again. I have not replaced the sensor as yet. It seems to start the rough running / lousy gas mileage thing when it rains [if that means anything]. Anyhow, it started running rough again, even with the MAF sensor unplugged, so I cleared the code again and it started running smooth again. Then it started running rough again, and this time clearing the code is not fixing it.
The only code being set is the MAF sensor P0102 code. It still has quite a bit of power, but gets loagy easy in higher gears. The gas mileage is terrible and the exhaust smells. It doesn't stall out, or anything like that. I've tried plugging the MAF sensor back in and that doesn't help.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
fastertransam
My 2001 WS6 Trans Am [manual trans.] is running rough again. It had been throwing a MAF sensor code, which seemed to be the reason, or one of them. My mechanic buddy told me to unplug the MAF sensor, and, sure enough, it started running smooth again. I have not replaced the sensor as yet. It seems to start the rough running / lousy gas mileage thing when it rains [if that means anything]. Anyhow, it started running rough again, even with the MAF sensor unplugged, so I cleared the code again and it started running smooth again. Then it started running rough again, and this time clearing the code is not fixing it.
The only code being set is the MAF sensor P0102 code. It still has quite a bit of power, but gets loagy easy in higher gears. The gas mileage is terrible and the exhaust smells. It doesn't stall out, or anything like that. I've tried plugging the MAF sensor back in and that doesn't help.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
fastertransam
Sounds like you need a new MAF sensor. I believe un-plugging it will force the PCM to operate in some open-loop mode, which works only as long as the atmospheric conditions (temp, humidity, pressure) remain stable. Once that gets out of whack, the PCM can't compensate for the lack of information provided by the MAF sensor.
^ And it will run rich, so...
This is not surprising.
I would take care of one problem at a time. The MAF very well may be the fix for everything.
Are you running an oiled air filter? (ie: K&N - it does this to the MAF.) Also, have you tried getting some MAF cleaner and cleaning the MAF?
This is not surprising.
I would take care of one problem at a time. The MAF very well may be the fix for everything.
Are you running an oiled air filter? (ie: K&N - it does this to the MAF.) Also, have you tried getting some MAF cleaner and cleaning the MAF?
Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I have the cleaning stuff I’ve just been putting off doing it because it’s the only car I have got, and with a lot of crazy stuff going on in the family right now, I’m afraid I’ll screw something ands be without a car.
But I just help a sheet of paper in front of the exhaust pipes while the car was running, and it was flapping around pretty good. Then I looked at the sheet of paper and there was damp black soot all over it. What does that mean? Anybody?
The car is using a truly ridiculous amount of gas. Like half a check for 50 miles.
BTW, is it possible that it’s the fuel pump? I had it replaced not too long ago, but it turns out that the guy that did it is not exactlya the greatest mechanic.
Thanks, fastertransam
But I just help a sheet of paper in front of the exhaust pipes while the car was running, and it was flapping around pretty good. Then I looked at the sheet of paper and there was damp black soot all over it. What does that mean? Anybody?
The car is using a truly ridiculous amount of gas. Like half a check for 50 miles.
BTW, is it possible that it’s the fuel pump? I had it replaced not too long ago, but it turns out that the guy that did it is not exactlya the greatest mechanic.
Thanks, fastertransam
Last edited by fastertransam; Dec 25, 2019 at 02:12 AM.
2) If you are unplugging the MAF, anyway - what's the difference? Are you worried that you may not be able to get the car back together? It's a really easy thing to do with just a screw driver. The first time you take the bellows off and put the air cover back on - that's a little frustrating; but we can walk you through that if it's a concern.
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I'd replace both front o2s with some ntk,s . I've had very similar story as yours. And it ran like crap and used a ton ove fuel on/off . No codes ever came on!! Maf and o2s don't last forever.
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No surprise. When the car is running rich, you'll be rollin' coal.
What is your exact mileage and under what conditions? This car can "achieve" anything between 10-30 mpg easy and I regularly experience all of that. Without your MAF, your car will not be able to efficiently calculate the use of fuel and you'll always be towards the bottom end of this.
What is your exact mileage and under what conditions? This car can "achieve" anything between 10-30 mpg easy and I regularly experience all of that. Without your MAF, your car will not be able to efficiently calculate the use of fuel and you'll always be towards the bottom end of this.
1) If the cleaner says it's safe for a MAF, then you are all good. There are metal grates protecting the actual sensor, you can't do any real damage with the proper spray. The MAF cleaner (as opposed to other electrical cleaners) does not dissolve the plastic inside the part.
2) If you are unplugging the MAF, anyway - what's the difference? Are you worried that you may not be able to get the car back together? It's a really easy thing to do with just a screw driver. The first time you take the bellows off and put the air cover back on - that's a little frustrating; but we can walk you through that if it's a concern.
Thanks,
fastertransam
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Last edited by fastertransam; Dec 26, 2019 at 03:04 AM.
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On The Tree
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Quick story to explain why I am a little gun shy. The car was acting weird like this previously and it was actually throwing a misfire code. I took it to Gattos and they said there was "low compression on one of the cylinders" and I needed a new engine. So I went all over the place pricing replacement engines and was trying to get money together to have that done. I took it to another shop where the owner was retiring and they found out that it was just a bad spark plug. He was the guy who I saw hold a piece of paper behind the tailpipe and watch it. He did that and said he didn't think there was that much wrong. Nice guy and he saved me several thousand dollars I guess.
I am not really sure what I'm looking for with the "sheet of paper behind the tailpipe maneuver. But when I did it the other day, the exhaust was moving the paper a good bit.
I do appreciate you guys helping me with this stuff.
Best always,
fastertransam
I am not really sure what I'm looking for with the "sheet of paper behind the tailpipe maneuver. But when I did it the other day, the exhaust was moving the paper a good bit.
I do appreciate you guys helping me with this stuff.
Best always,
fastertransam
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From: Missouri
I should have been more specific, the front oxygen sensors right at exhaust manifold or headers. (Front most) ntk is the brand I prefer. These cars are getting older and components like maf ,o2 sensors, iac valve in throttle body (idle air control) arent getting any younger. If it was my car I'd start with good plugs/wires then new maf sensor and new front oxygen sensors (one on each side ) that would just make sense as likely those components are about 18yrs old by now if stock. Hope you get it figured out.
Without a log, or actual data from a decent scanner, you are just going to be wasting your money on replacing parts from a bunch of people on the internet that don't know how to work on cars.....
Thread Starter
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So I went to try and remove the MAF sensor to clean it, but clamps do not have flathead screws tightening them. Its some other thing that I don't believe I have ever seen, almost like a rivet. I have a a set with all kinds of "bits" [hex, torx, and so forth] and none of them fit. Anybody know what they are?
If anyone knows of a video showing how this is done, it would be appreciated. I could not find one.
Thanks,
fastertransam
If anyone knows of a video showing how this is done, it would be appreciated. I could not find one.
Thanks,
fastertransam
OP I would go back to your first post where you stated that the car threw a code for the MAF; the PCM is clearly telling you one of its problems. As for removing the MAF, I'm pretty sure my T/A has its MAF secured with worm clamps. Maybe post pictures of what you're talking about?
Last edited by myk; Dec 26, 2019 at 05:48 PM.
So I went to try and remove the MAF sensor to clean it, but clamps do not have flathead screws tightening them. Its some other thing that I don't believe I have ever seen, almost like a rivet. I have a a set with all kinds of "bits" [hex, torx, and so forth] and none of them fit. Anybody know what they are?
If anyone knows of a video showing how this is done, it would be appreciated. I could not find one.
Thanks,
fastertransam
If anyone knows of a video showing how this is done, it would be appreciated. I could not find one.
Thanks,
fastertransam
Here's a video on the air box replacement, which will show getting down to the MAF. It's all flat head worm drive clamps. If you have something different, please post a picture.
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Side note to this thread ... props to you OP for taking care of your 89 year old mother. Before mine passed a couple of years ago, it was quite a site seeing my 87 year old getting into my Trans Am, with it being lowered and just the nature of the beast. She loved the loud mufflers .... even though I couldn't hear a word she said when I was driving.
Good luck with it, there are a lot of knowledgeable and caring people here that are willing to help.
Good luck with it, there are a lot of knowledgeable and caring people here that are willing to help.
Just because YOU don't know how to work on cars doesn't mean the rest of us don't. The OP stated complaints involving MAF sensor codes and he was appropriately told to either clean or replace the MAF. Are you the guy at his shop that tried to tell the OP that he needed a new engine?
OP I would go back to your first post where you stated that the car threw a code for the MAF; the PCM is clearly telling you one of its problems. As for removing the MAF, I'm pretty sure my T/A has its MAF secured with worm clamps. Maybe post pictures of what you're talking about?
OP I would go back to your first post where you stated that the car threw a code for the MAF; the PCM is clearly telling you one of its problems. As for removing the MAF, I'm pretty sure my T/A has its MAF secured with worm clamps. Maybe post pictures of what you're talking about?
So I'm guessing if there was a DTC for bank 1 lean, you would just replace the 02 sensor right?
I'm guessing you took it personal when I said there were people that didn't know how to work on cars since you replied, or that you go to Auto Zone have your codes checked and replace parts off that.
Go back in your hole troll.
Last edited by LilJayV10; Dec 27, 2019 at 03:11 PM.
Agreed. This would be the easiest, cheapest way starting out. If you don't have a way to clear the codes, disconnected the battery while you are swapping out the new MAF to clear the codes.
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Here's a video on the air box replacement, which will show getting down to the MAF. It's all flat head worm drive clamps. If you have something different, please post a picture.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BaoSTuFiwo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BaoSTuFiwo
Last edited by fastertransam; Dec 27, 2019 at 06:36 PM.