Box clicking under the dash


[I[Imgur](https://imgur.com/L9JpoJR)mgur](http...ur.com/L9JpoJR)
Last edited by Hawk588; May 5, 2021 at 10:52 AM.
The box in question is clearly a GM accessory alarm system which some previous owner had installed. As such, simply removing it would probably prevent your car from starting (note the 2-pin connector labeled "Starter"). It can be removed but you will have to restore the original wiring where it has been spliced in. You might be able to simply connect the two wires in the Starter connector together to bypass the alarm but I would test that thoroughly before relying on it.
I doubt you would be able to find a replacement module these days although anything is possible with sites like ebay. GM switched to selling rebranded DEI Hornet 700T modules as their add-on alarm system in the late '90s and even that isn't available anymore.
The box in question is clearly a GM accessory alarm system which some previous owner had installed. As such, simply removing it would probably prevent your car from starting (note the 2-pin connector labeled "Starter"). It can be removed but you will have to restore the original wiring where it has been spliced in. You might be able to simply connect the two wires in the Starter connector together to bypass the alarm but I would test that thoroughly before relying on it.
I doubt you would be able to find a replacement module these days although anything is possible with sites like ebay. GM switched to selling rebranded DEI Hornet 700T modules as their add-on alarm system in the late '90s and even that isn't available anymore.
In this case, the module in question is an alarm system mounted under the dash with only a single ground wire which is, presumably, connected to either an existing ground wire such as the radio or an existing chassis ground such as the stud behind the kick panel. It is always a good idea to check the device's ground since, as you say, it's half of the electrical circuit. But there's no way the ground connection between the engine block and the battery would affect this module (you could disconnect that ground and all the non-engine related circuits would still work). There is a very remote possibility that a bad chassis ground connection could cause the problem but then you'd be experiencing numerous other failures related to that ground and none were mentioned.
Devices like this usually click because of internal relays... there really aren't many other components that are mechanical and could cause such a noise. It's safe to assume that the module is getting power - you wouldn't be hearing clicking (or any noise) from it if there was no power to cause internal relays to trip. The same logic would seem to indicate that the ground is okay as well - without ground, the current wouldn't flow and you wouldn't get clicking relays. That's why I surmised that the module itself is faulty. Of course, checking these assumptions with a multimeter or test light is always a good idea.
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I also had removed a fuse from my 2001 TA, the rear view mirror courtesy light fuse, and for years had a "click-clock sound" whenever I'd open or close the doors. I didn't connect the fuse with the sound for 18 months, as it was over the winter when I took it out at first and didn't hear it often.
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I also had removed a fuse from my 2001 TA, the rear view mirror courtesy light fuse, and for years had a "click-clock sound" whenever I'd open or close the doors. I didn't connect the fuse with the sound for 18 months, as it was over the winter when I took it out at first and didn't hear it often.
Your fuse situation is easily explained - the COURTESY fuse does more than just the mirror lights... it is one of the primary power sources for the Body Control Module (BCM) which has several relays related to the keyless entry system, power door locks, hatch release, and retained accessory power (RAP) system. That's probably the noise you heard and why that particular fuse would be involved.








