Poly Motor Mounts
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 178
Likes: 26
From: Kentucky
Poly Motor Mounts So 17 year old me was stupid and did headers without putting new motor mounts in as well. 5 years later and I regret that decision, the mounts are sagging pretty bad now and my headers are rubbing my k-member. From what I researched on here, all the posts from 2006 say it's a pain to replace the mounts. From crawling under the car and looking around, it doesn't seem all that bad to do even with the headers on. Simple as removing the alternator and A/C Compressor. Is it that bad to do with the headers still on?
Depends how lucky you get.. I didn't have much trouble at all. You'll have a jack under the engine to maneuver it around. Grab a couple pry bars and a friend. I suggest the Prothane mounts, personally. But BMR actually has a newer intriguing design you may want to check out.
I also highly suggest keeping the trans mount OEM rubber.
I also highly suggest keeping the trans mount OEM rubber.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 178
Likes: 26
From: Kentucky
Yeah my trans mount is fresh from when I had my Performabuilt one installed. I will probably just attempt it myself. I'm sure after a few choice words it'll get done. Still gonna call a local shop for a quote and weigh my options.
It was the OEM bolts that began to sag due to the weight of the iron block and I had lots of fun getting them replaced. What I did was use a 1/4" thick piece of 2" X 2" square tubing to lay accross the shock towers and I used rachet straps on a header primary for each side to support the engine while using a hydraulic jack to aid in lifting engine up and to free up tension on the through bolts to lower the k-member down some. I used an air hammer to drive the bolts through but ended up stopping at the driver side header so I had to cut the damn thing into sections in order to get it out. BMR stated that the through bolts need to come in from the back side on their k-memeber and that's okay for the passenger side but no way was I doing that again for the driver side. "Lesson learned" The passenger side wasn't too bad at all but I will advise you to do one side at a time. If it is your motor mounts that are shot you can rebuild them with the Energy Suspension poly mount kit and it's way better than the stock mounts. I went with Grade 10 hardware for the through bolts when I put it back together and so far so good.
It was the OEM bolts that began to sag due to the weight of the iron block and I had lots of fun getting them replaced. What I did was use a 1/4" thick piece of 2" X 2" square tubing to lay accross the shock towers and I used rachet straps on a header primary for each side to support the engine while using a hydraulic jack to aid in lifting engine up and to free up tension on the through bolts to lower the k-member down some. I used an air hammer to drive the bolts through but ended up stopping at the driver side header so I had to cut the damn thing into sections in order to get it out. BMR stated that the through bolts need to come in from the back side on their k-memeber and that's okay for the passenger side but no way was I doing that again for the driver side. "Lesson learned" The passenger side wasn't too bad at all but I will advise you to do one side at a time. If it is your motor mounts that are shot you can rebuild them with the Energy Suspension poly mount kit and it's way better than the stock mounts. I went with Grade 10 hardware for the through bolts when I put it back together and so far so good.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 686
Likes: 76
From: Thibodaux LA
I did mine when I did my headers. I do remember I removed the whole mouth and pedestal that bolts to the k member. Jacked up the motor with a block of wood under the oil pan. It seemed alot easier taking out the whole thing as an assembly.
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Yeah you can do it that way with the stock k-member.
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