I have an intermittent grinding noise from the right wheel well area when turning left at slow speeds, or in parking maneuvers when that wheel is cocked to that position. It does not occur during normal cruising speeds.

It started when I had all the bushings and ball joints replaced a couple of years ago. We recently replaced the right upper ball joint, thinking it may have been the culprit. It seemed to help for a while, but now it's back to the same old grinding.

Appreciate any help!

 

My first thought would be the wheel hubs/bearings. Swapping them side-to-side should confirm if they are in play.

 

I would check the brake pads and the retaining clips. If they are really close, when you turn it loads the bearing differently and will move allowing it to touch and make noise.

 

Thanks for the leads, guys. The wheel hubs are fairly new (Timkens probably 3-5 years old, I couldn't find the receipt). I do notice a little rotational noise when around curves at speed, but not nearly as much as what led me to replace the hubs at that time. Plus back then I didn't have the grinding noise. It started right after having the bushings and ball joints replaced two years ago.

 

When i first bought my 99 SS a year ago it was doing something similar on right turns only at first. Then it did it at slow speeds no matter if it was left or right. I changed the diff fluid and all the awful noise went away.

 

Bringing this one back up for guys who may have an understanding of how rack & pinions work. Over the winter, the noise was mostly dormant. But as soon as the weather warmed up, the grinding noise returned. Based on that, it seems like fluid heating/viscosity plays a role.

This occurs when cranking to the left only. My buddy who owns four shops and his techs have no idea. And otherwise the front end is completely tight. Still poking around for ideas ...?

 

To clarify,
is this a noise as the steering wheel is being turned?
Or is it a noise that occurs while turning, even if the steering wheel is stationary?
Ball joints, steering components are not going to cause a rotational noise. A ball joint with no grease can cause a squawk as the knuckle turns or as the suspension articulates. It can also cause a knock over bumps. A steering rack could cause a noise as the wheel is turned, but not common.
If I am understanding you correctly that this is a rotational type scraping/grinding noise that occurs in motion, while turning, and is more audible at slow speeds I would do the following:

1. Recreate the noise in a parking lot while someone is listening from outside of the vehicle. Sometimes noises like this can kind of echo and you can be tricked about which corner the noise is coming from. Identify the corner positively first.
2. Jack up the vehicle or place it on a lift.
3. Not necessarily going to locate the source of your noise, but every time I lift or jack up a vehicle, I do the following:4. If you have not identified the source, the next thing to do is rotate the wheel while putting pressure on the backing plate/dust shield toward the brake disc. Do this in several locations around the dust shield while spinning the wheel. If light pressure produces the noise you are hearing, you have found the source of your noise. Since this started after you had suspension work done, this is a likely cause as they are easy to bend accidentally. Normally it would clearance itself, but oxidation can cause a buildup that just keeps making noise. This is even more likely if it gets worse when the brakes are warmed up/higher ambient temps and parts expand. Bend to clearance.
5. If you still have not found the noise, pull the wheel. Look very closely at the brake rotor. The friction surfaces AND the edges at the outer diameter. You are looking for any shiny spots where something may have been rubbing. This could be a piece of brake hardware that is out of place in the bracket, a wear sensor/squeeler that is bent further inward than it should be, a place where the backing place is rubbing. If you don't see anything on the rotor, still look at the clearance of your caliper braket and such to the rotor. Keep in mind that the rotor may not be sitting square with the hub without the wheel on
6. I have heard many things described as a "grinding". Another thing to check would be for any obvious rub marks on the tire or vehicle where the tire could hit it.
7. Not pertinent to your vehicle, but if this was a front wheel drive application, I would look closely at the axle shaft for something like a broken sway bar link that is rubbing against it.

I hope this helps! If this is not the type of noise you were describing, please clarify and I will give the best advice I can.

 

^^Thanks for the above. We have done most of those tests. There is no evidence of rubbing or anything, It's not a scraping noise like a backing plate would cause; it's a deep grinding noise. It can be heard outside the car.

The noise occurs when turning the steering wheel to the left at slow speeds, like when turning to pull out of a parking space. There is no play in the steering, wobbliness, noise, or vibration going down the road. The front end is tight.

 

So, is it just asthe wheel is turned? Or only during forward movement and with the wheel turned? Like does the steering wheel have to be in motion for the noise to occur? Or can it be in a set position as the car rolls? If during steering wheel movement, possibly something rubbing the steering/intermediate shaft? Or like you said, the rack itself. One thing that might be worth the investment is a set of the cheap, wired chassis ears. Or if you know someone with an oscilloscope and any sort of NVH leads. That's assuming it can't be duplicated on a lift. Those are always the hardest noises to find.

 

Yes, the steering wheel has to be actively rotated to the left for it to grind. Fixed in any position it is fine. And it has to be rotating significantly, like when one is turning after backing out of a parking space. At speed going down the road one doesn't crank the steering wheel hard enough to the left to induce it, or it doesn't occur because there's less resistance to turning from rolling wheels.

 

This would make me doubly suspect the bearings in the hubs.