First off, the Dorman's design has to come w/regulators. "Dorman 741-886"

The other you need to google " 17-40060AN "

There's always the Lup C4 window motor mods, but that needs fabrication....I am grateful for any advice, experience or input you guys have on any of these.

 

I Ordered the Dorman 741-886 with regulator. I'll include the link.......Complete GARBAGE. Wow, did it sound AWFUL!!!!! It was so bad, that I honestly thought I installed it incorrectly. Then I removed it (I was so unhappy going through all that headache again) and tested it out outside the door. It sounded the same. Thinking this was a defective one, I ordered a replacement from Amazon.....same exact thing. I was sick of not being able to use the car so I just installed it. The motor sounds like it's binding/skipping teeth on the gears. It works....and is fast..... sometimes it freezes and I have to give it a few seconds.

You may have better luck than I did. From what I gather talking with various people with our issue, the Dorman went through variations with some of the motors build being very high quality vs other variations where it was junky. It all depended on the time you bought it. Someone who bought a Dorman motor 6 months earlier might have had much better luck than I did.


Pros: Works.....for the most part.
Cons: Sounds like %@T%^&####$%^^, hesitates, skips, and freezes once in a while.

This is the first time I've heard about the Lup C4 window motor mods. I will have to look into it. If it doesn't need much or difficult fabrication, I may attempt it.

P.S. Don't be as stupid as I am. Test the motor BEFORE installing it to see if it appears to be working correctly. Of course, you will only know 100% for sure if it works correctly upon complete installation, but it should give you a good idea prior.

 

For the record, the Dorman motor/regulator combos (741-886 and 741-887) is NOT the "new Dorman" design that we've all been searching for over the past several years. That motor is still a dead unicorn.

These units are something different, entirely. It looks to me that the motor and regulator for these units is not interchangeable with the OEM parts. As such, replacement motors cannot be had and the shbox fix will not work out. (One would need to keep replacing regulators as these go out, which is a recipe for pernamently tearing up the door panel.) I tried a similar experiement 15 years ago with an Electic-Life motor/regulator combo, which is no longer available and it was a total disaster. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-over-old.html

Dorman does make motor-only parts. (742-101) While this is not the "new" design, it does appear that the motors contain new parts. So, this (as best as anyone on this site can tell) is probably the best motor option. Using this part and the shbox method of replacement will give the best logevity for the mechansim and the door.

The key is the shbox method. Once the shbox holes are dirlled, swapping out the motor isn't such a big deal. Preserving the composite door panel and NOT replacing the regulator is key.

 

Can't stress this enough. This is the least invasive, least disastrous method of replacing (and continuing to replace) motors over the years.

Sil-Glyde on lubrication points is another great idea any time that motor replacement is being done.

 

I replaced the driver's side with a Cardone unit when the car was 4-5 years old and it's still working perfectly 16-17 years later.

Finally got off my lazy *** last summer and replaced the slow passenger side with another Cardone unit and so far, so good. Shbox method all the way!