2000 Camaro z28 - engine hesitates and stutters 2k-3k
#21
I'd stay on this a bit longer. Your symptoms are classic dirty MAF and by the looks of the bangles your P.O. installed under your snot, you must have a lot of build up.
Many of us have been through this before and a simple spray wasn't enough to get the MAF clean. If you disassemble the MAF, you can us a magnifier to see if any black streaks are still on the wires. IF you do this, you need to be super careful as the screens protect the wires. They are extremely fragile and if you break one, then you'll need a new MAF. I ended up having to clean mine with a Q-tip, but that is definitely recommended due to the risk - but others have done it successfully. (with a light touch) You'll want to clean until all the black deposits are off the sensor wires.
When this problem was first reported in the early 2000's, GM also claimed that the O2 sensors were getting fouled. I have never seen a technical explanation why this would happen, but I also changed mine under the advise of a dealer. (I took mine in for a warranty complaint and they gave me the finger since I put a K&N filter on the car - but they shared "advice" for free.) The combination of a deep MAF cleaning and new O2 sensors (and going back to a paper air filter) made the problem go away for good.
If you can really tell the difference between a paper filter and an oiled one, you are a better person than I am. Personally, I think the oil filters should be for sale on the shelf next to snake oil. The best compromise I've seen on this site is to run a paper air filter and then put a K&N sticker on the bumper so everyone thinks that you have an expensive air filter. (No fuss that way.)
Many of us have been through this before and a simple spray wasn't enough to get the MAF clean. If you disassemble the MAF, you can us a magnifier to see if any black streaks are still on the wires. IF you do this, you need to be super careful as the screens protect the wires. They are extremely fragile and if you break one, then you'll need a new MAF. I ended up having to clean mine with a Q-tip, but that is definitely recommended due to the risk - but others have done it successfully. (with a light touch) You'll want to clean until all the black deposits are off the sensor wires.
When this problem was first reported in the early 2000's, GM also claimed that the O2 sensors were getting fouled. I have never seen a technical explanation why this would happen, but I also changed mine under the advise of a dealer. (I took mine in for a warranty complaint and they gave me the finger since I put a K&N filter on the car - but they shared "advice" for free.) The combination of a deep MAF cleaning and new O2 sensors (and going back to a paper air filter) made the problem go away for good.
If you can really tell the difference between a paper filter and an oiled one, you are a better person than I am. Personally, I think the oil filters should be for sale on the shelf next to snake oil. The best compromise I've seen on this site is to run a paper air filter and then put a K&N sticker on the bumper so everyone thinks that you have an expensive air filter. (No fuss that way.)
I should take a photo of the MAF and then zoom in real good. Worst case I buy a new MAF from the Dealer and a couple O2 sensors. That would handle it.
As for the filter, what about a dry element?
#22
Don’t get a parts from the dealer. They’re going to give you the same the as Rockauto etc for two to three times as much $.
#24
I also think that getting an OEM sensor is a good idea if that is what you are running right now. (Assuming that your additional cleanings don't bear fruit.) However, that doesn't mean that you have to go to a dealer. If you find a sensor from a reputable company that looks exactly like the OEM sensor, odds are that it's made exactly to spec. MAF sensors aren't very complicated. They just have simple, thin wires that hang out in the intake air stream. The sensor heats them and as they are cooled by the intake air, the resistance of the wires is measured/compared for the computer to do its thing.
A dealer will definitely rip you off for a part like this for a car as old as this. You should be protected by going to a parts store and getting a sensor with a warranty.
But... I have faith that your next cleaning will give you some additional results. The camera thing should work, but you may need to remove the screens.
A dealer will definitely rip you off for a part like this for a car as old as this. You should be protected by going to a parts store and getting a sensor with a warranty.
But... I have faith that your next cleaning will give you some additional results. The camera thing should work, but you may need to remove the screens.
#28
Hate to say it but pretty much every hose could be suspect if they’re twenty years old.
I’ve kind of been looking at this $125 smoke machine but I don’t know if it’s worth a darn or not. I’m not sure how long a can of the liquid last but it looks like refills are $25 each. I bet Seafoam or the equivalent of would work in it too. If that tester worked ok it’d prob be cheaper than having a shop find the leak.
I’ve kind of been looking at this $125 smoke machine but I don’t know if it’s worth a darn or not. I’m not sure how long a can of the liquid last but it looks like refills are $25 each. I bet Seafoam or the equivalent of would work in it too. If that tester worked ok it’d prob be cheaper than having a shop find the leak.
#29
Mystery solved. It was the MAF.
bought an Remanufactured AC Delco MAF from RockAuto.
swapped it in and BAM. Brand new.
Drove it around for 30 min and no hesitation anywhere. No matter how heavy or light the throttle.
Perfect.
bought an Remanufactured AC Delco MAF from RockAuto.
swapped it in and BAM. Brand new.
Drove it around for 30 min and no hesitation anywhere. No matter how heavy or light the throttle.
Perfect.
The following 3 users liked this post by Tupp:
#30