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20 years ago when I did my cam swap on my 99 TA I removed the AC lines at the condenser I didn't know to put tape over the hose connections. it took a few days for me to finish the cam due to rain. I believe this is how I ruined my AC moisture entering the sys. I believe the clught on the compressor still engages.(I'll confirm this )
after cam & reassemble of AC lines I recharged w/ one large can of refrigerant ( I never sucked out the remains)years ago I have been told this moisture in sys. turned to ice an wreaked the whole sys.is this true or false?
over the years car mainly sits an rarely used so I'm assuming all the refrigerant has leaked out leaving just moisture.
1.or has all these summers heat dryed up whatever moisture was in sys?
2. or should sys. be sucked out w/ the proper AC vacuum before swapping any AC part?
I'm planning on trying the die.
3.if compressor clutch doesn't engage even w/ a paper clip at the dryers wiring should the compressor be swapped?
4.must I get the special goggles or can I see the die w/ just the special flashlight?
5.or should I plan on replacing every part?
The oil that stays inside everything is hygroscopic, even if you taped the lines it would still probably draw moisture to it.
Oil contains a component that is a dehydrated acid. When it rehydrates it forms acid.
So after the first month of your system being open the oil was beginning to turn into acid.
You can't jump a transducer with a paperclip. Pull the compressor clutch relay, read the diagram on it and put a jumper wire between the two cavities in the fuse/relay box. (and hear the belt squeal because the compressor is locked up)
Jumping the relay bypasses the switch, it sends power directly to the compressor clutch.
no-no the cam swap was 20 years ago, the AC lines at condenser where left open only a couple days.
what I said is that moisture is probally still in there then I asked if all these hot summers dried the moisture?
plus all my other #ed questions.
basicely wondering where to start?thanks
So it was never put back into service?
It won't dry out, thats like putting water in a container with a lid. You could boil it and it's not coming out.
You could flush everything except the compressor, just drain it.
Replace the accumulator/drier, orifice tube, o-rings and sealing washers, put oil in it, pull a real good vacuum on it. Like let a good vacuum pump run on it for 24 hours.
Connect the refrigerant can and purge air from the line to the can before opening the valve.
Resealing the compressor is a good idea, it's the only part you can actually see any moisture damage in. A few special tools are needed for that. There are two different types of shaft seals if it's an OEM compressor. When you change the compressor o-rings the sealing surfaces need to be polished very well.
AND don't use the PAG 150 oil to lubricate anything. All o-rings and threads, etc need to be oiled with mineral oil.
So it was never put back into service?I did recharge/refill w/ the large can it worked for a few days then I assume the freeo leaked out
a few years later a friend who had the guages an the sucksion device helped w/ another recharge
I believe he didn't really know what he was doing, same old stuff differnt day worked a few days leaked out. so I just left it alone an didn't drive it during the summer.
It won't dry out, thats like putting water in a container with a lid. You could boil it yes I saw this boil out w/ the vacuum device on ytube and it's not coming out.
You could flush everything except the compressor, just drain it.how to drain the compressor
Replace the accumulator/drier, orifice tube, o-rings and sealing washers, put oil in it, pull a real good vacuum on it. Like let a good vacuum pump run on it for 24 hours.canI rent a vacuum pump?
Connect the refrigerant can and purge air from the line to the can before opening the valve.
Resealing the compressor is a good idea, it's the only part you can actually see any moisture damage in.are you saying to dissassemble the compressor to replace the large seals? it mite be easier for me to just swap in a new compressor. A few special tools are needed for that. There are two different types of shaft seals if it's an OEM compressor. When you change the compressor o-rings the sealing surfaces need to be polished very well.OK I can clean an lube the new O-rings
AND don't use the PAG 150 oil to lubricate anything. All o-rings and threads, etc need to be oiled with mineral oil.
been watching a few videos only a few on 4th gen. AC compressor /dryers & oroface swaps but am getting the idea.
tomorrow I will press a shrader valve an see if there's any freeon, I'll also confirm the compressors clugh engages and report back.
the Man next door just moved in last week (so I don't know he well yet. he doe's home AC/heating.couple days ago I had fuel leaking out of my fuel rails preasure sender due to worn out teflon tape. ordered a new fuel preasure relief valve (schrader) borrowed a tire schrader valve tool which was to short to screw schrader valve in fuel rail he just happened to have a schrader valve tool.
will ppl that do home AC/heat have the proper guages and vacuum pump to service the cars AC? thanks for advice
update : I depressed the connection at the dryer by sticking a screwdriver inside expecting there was a shrader valve,(if I remeber correctly this port at dryer is where I refilled w/ large can of freeon) didn't hear any freeon come out. moved to the other port in front of radiator I heard freeon come out at this port.
haven't checked the compressors clutch yet.
when you say "the compressor, just drain it." are you saying to remove compressor & drain it's oil?
update : I depressed the connection at the dryer by sticking a screwdriver inside expecting there was a shrader valve,(if I remeber correctly this port at dryer is where I refilled w/ large can of freeon) didn't hear any freeon come out. moved to the other port in front of radiator I heard freeon come out at this port.
haven't checked the compressors clutch yet.
when you say "the compressor, just drain it." are you saying to remove compressor & drain it's oil?
Yes, the compressor would need to come out to drain it.
Hard to say if it's 100% necessary without looking at it. The oil can turn waxy if it has moisture in it. But what you've said it might not be too bad but I would drain it.
should I be testing the compressors clutch before removing compressor & draining? like if the clutch won't engage I'd prefer to swap in a brand new compressor that already has oil. however I've owned this car since 2000 an never realy used the AC much at all so maybe the compressor hasn't worn?
if I remember correctly when I refilled the freeon I had to force the clutch to enguage w/ a paperclip crossconnecting the AC sensor then clutch enguaged and sucked up the freeon.
doe's car need to be elevated an me crawled underneth to observe if clutch engages when AC is turned on? or can it be observed from up top?thanks
At the very least you NEED to swap out the dryer any time the system is opened. They are cheap.
if it was converted from R12 to R134 toss everything, game over by now the hoses are rotten and will just leak freon.
You can do this right the first time or fight it indefinitely. If I was doing it,,, I'd order all new hoses, new compressor, new condenser new evaporator.
Once assembled BEFORE! any refrigerant goes in, the system needs to be pumped down with a vacuum pump with an isolation valve and gauge to check for leaks. Basically go buy the harbor freight gage set it works fine just don't drop the gauge cluster. The system should hold vacuum for at least 5 hours with no change. I used the hose off a "self fill kit can" to make an adapter to connect the small cans to the gage set.
Most compressors don't come with oil like the old days. You buy a lube charge can they are precharged with the starting oil load + a bit of R134. depending on your system specs you need 1 to 3 of them. If you over fill you'll ruin the compressor.
If you try and use the cans with the built in gauges to charge a brand new system you may as well set it all on fire.. R134 pressure levels are WAY more sensitive than the old R12 systems. A pro style gage set is really required to do it right. My BMW it was +/- like 2 oz of R134 and the pressures were in about a 10 lb range to get proper operation..
Once assembled BEFORE! any refrigerant goes in, the system needs to be pumped down with a vacuum pump with an isolation valve and gauge to check for leaks. Basically go buy the harbor freight gage set it works fine just don't drop the gauge cluster. The system should hold vacuum for at least 5 hours with no change.
I use a micron gauge to do vacuum hold tests. It is IMPOSSIBLE to do a vacuum hold test without one. UNLESS you have a giant leak.
Trust me, the microns can rise up showing a leak and a analog gauge won't even move.
If you want to add to doing it more properly nitrogen can be used to do a pressure drop test before you waste time evacuating and vacuum holding.
And to let people know something I never see anyone talk about... a used compressor shaft seal will never hold a good vacuum, but it will hold pressure. A new seal or new compressor will hold vacuum.
And care needs to be taken bolting the compressor up. I've seen at least one broken at the rear bolt boss.
Schrader valves should be replaced also.
In all reality it can be properly leak checked first and if it passes flush it all out replace o-rings, seals, orifice tube, accumulator/drier, etc and it'll be just as good as replacing everything.
If there is money to burn or your doing it for a living replace everything. I still can't make sense of replacing everything and doing the job with harbor freight tools.
It's hard to go back to harbor freight tools when you use quality stuff.
I have a hard time understanding how people can recommend using the wrong stuff to rebuild a transmission and certain members here flip out. Yet it's perfectly fine to suggest doing a/c the not so right way.
Come to think about my cars AC it was recharged 5 years ago but it was same old stuff different day like 2 previous attempts freon leaked out.
If I remember correctly I didn’t jump cross connect the wireing at the relay like gene cheeseman advices but at the preasure sensor now I can’t see these 2 wires I thought they where near the dryer.
I don’t mind replacing every part if need be. I’ve sean compressor/dryer/ seal replacement, oroface. Haven’t sean the evaporator swap yet, seam to be tucked inside the dash an proballey the hardest part to swap.
I found out the oroface tube is basically a screen filter upon when it’s inspected if there is metal particals will both the condenser & evaporated require replacing or can they be blown out w/ compressed air?
Here’s the stuff I topped off the sys. w/ both cans have Freon so I plan to get some die and pour a little into the connection fitting then pump it in or will the die just pour out an not enter the sys.? Like will I have to have the gauges w/ the yellow tube to get the die inside sys.? thanks
You can't put dye there.
Do you plan to evacuate it? (use a vacuum pump)
You know it takes 24 ounces of freon?
And it's supposed to get PAG 150 oil.
How well do you want it to work? And for how long?
I wouldn't replace the evaporator unless I confirmed a leak. Otherwise flush it out. It's not contaminated from normal operation since anything that goes in it has to get through the orifice tube.
If I have to add oil, (would work with dye) I'd disconnect the accumulator hose and pour it so it goes in the accumulator. This way it can't be sucked out with a vacuum pump.
You can't put dye there.
Do you plan to evacuate it? (use a vacuum pump)
You know it takes 24 ounces of freon?
And it's supposed to get PAG 150 oil.
How well do you want it to work? And for how long?
I wouldn't replace the evaporator unless I confirmed a leak. Otherwise flush it out. It's not contaminated from normal operation since anything that goes in it has to get through the orifice tube.
If I have to add oil, (would work with dye) I'd disconnect the accumulator hose and pour it so it goes in the accumulator. This way it can't be sucked out with a vacuum pump.
my plan was to find the leak w/ dye, replace needed parts then vacuum then recharge the freon.
I like for the AC to preform at 100% of it's capabilities.I want to use the car in hot Florida and last for a few years or longer.
good news on the orifice protecting the evaporator.
you suggest to pour dye into the dryer tube but won't the little bit of freon still in sys come shooting out?
I just saw this dye in the canI’m now thinking this dye will work w/ the dispenser I have?
With the dye it has to run for several hours before you look for a leak.
You might want to jack it up and look at the bottom of the compressor. Oil runs down, and those compressors have two big o-rings around the body.
I did my camaro last year, low miles, never drive it, sits in the garage. The compressor just started leaking, oil comes out with the freon, and like I said earlier the oil attracts moisture. So it was a huge mess of oil residue and corrosion.
Once the corrosion starts it gets between the o-rings and body and the leak just gets worse. I always leak check with nitrogen pressure and an electronic leak detector. But I have seen work vehicles with dye in them from a shop, you hardly need the dye because theres always an oil stain where it's leaking.
With pressure in the system you do need a pressurized can of dye. I have an oil and dye injector. I'm trying to not suggest you buy a bunch of stuff you don't really need or will never use again.
I have bought a few cars that needed freon added, I added some and a few never needed it again, so I'm thinking maybe try adding dye with a pressurized can, leak sealer sometimes works, and freon to specs. Then see if it works and if it does run it til it stops then look for the dye.
These cars have variable displacement compressors that don't cycle unless theres a high or low pressure problem. So they are good at keeping the pressure to where it cools good, unless you put too much freon in it, and until it runs low.
So maybe just add that stuff and see if it lasts. Seeing how it's always had pressure in it increases the chances of it working. Maybe I missed that at some point, open to air is a bad thing, but it hasn't been so you might be good.
ok I'll start off w/ the dye in can from ebay w/ my dispenser.
FJC 4921 Dye Charge (Fluorescent Dye & 2 oz R134a)
I have the 2 dispensers the large can is almost empty the small can of stop leak is full.
should I shot in the remainder of large can then dissconnect the dispensor then connect it to dye.
like I can't just unscrew the large can since there still some freon still in it or do these cans reseal themselves?
like the dispensers guage will let me know how much freon is already in sys so I don't over fill correct?
I'm assuming the sys. is low the large cans guage will mearsure the sys.s pressure if it's real low should I also shot in the full can of stop leak.
inspect the lines for oil leaks check the compressor then report back thanks for advice.
Should work.
The dispenser/hose should come off and reseal, I'm guessing.
Make sure you charge with the cans upside down and it would help to heat it up, like put it behind the fans to get it all out.
Good luck, I'm in FL too, more south. This weekend was the hottest day of the year so far and we didn't get rain down here today. We're gonna need the a/c.
Was able to turn clutch by hand,didn’t observe a big leak of oil around compressor maybe a tad inbetween clutch an compressor.
wasn’t able to jump it w/ paper clip at pressure sensor.
w/ engine off Connected freons near empty large can and needle moved in positive direction only a tad 1/8”.
Cranked engine w/ Freon connected as soon as I depressed dispensers button the clutch kicked on.
Depressed dispenser some more needle went all the way over to yellow let off button needle bounced back to green.
Sparyed soapie water into each Schrader valve, top condensers connection, at firewall
An top AC lines an rubber tube didn’t see any bubbleing.yet to spray out of condenser my trans cooler obstructed that area.
Ambient temp is 79*F. AC set to max #2 blower it wasn’t cold also wasn’t hot. (engine wasn't up to operating temp.
The large can was almost empty so I assume the ounces are low. After emptying large can
She was at just below 34 in green.
since sys. is almost empty maybe remove dryers tube at firewall pour in the dye. then recharge w/ 2 small 11OZ cans of leak stop, while fire wall connection is off inspect the orifice clean or replace. or should it be vacuumed before adding any freon?
when adding freon: since I know sys. is empty I should just disreguard when when needle goe's to yellow alerting me to not over fill? thanks for advice
I cleaned inbetween clutch an compressor so if she leaks I'll see the oil.
03-24-2023, 12:34 PM
need AC repair advice 
