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Hello, I know that there’s a ton of window threads but please hear me out. I just opened the T-top for the first time on my 2002 ws6, I cleaned it up and installed it back without any issues. Right after that the passenger side window stopped responding, it was slow at first then suddenly it just got stuck midway. I had to wait for a few moments before trying to slowly raise it up again, after a few tries it finally went up all the way.
Earlier that day I had the car cleaned and I thought it might be just moisture or from the water, because I noticed that in the last few days whenever I washed the car the passenger side window would get more water inside not just a few drops from the side, then now when I wanted to move the window up from the driver’s side switch it doesn’t go all the way up it leaves just a tiny bit of space which explains why the water would enter more.I had to use the passenger side switch to raise it all the way up again before calling it a night. I just tried it again for the last time and it just stops midway going up. It went down fine at first.
does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do? Do I wait till tomorrow before trying it again as it might be from the water and moisture?
thank you all
Stops midway going up The tiny space left after using the driver’s side switch to put the passenger side window up. The space is gone after using the passenger side window switch to turn it up.
Sounds the the typical failing window motor on these cars.
thank you for your reply, what’s boggling me is that the window goes all the way up when using the passenger side switch, not the driver’s side. And the window stops midway going up now, I thought it might be due to the fact that there’s water or moisture I guess🤷
I have noticed that both the driver’s side and passenger side windows go up and down slower than any other car I’ve owned, since I had it shipped from USA .
what do you think is the solution ? and if there’s a part I need to buy please inform me.
I live overseas in UAE and there’s not much I could do in regards to spare parts unless I buy online and have it installed at home.
Guys, how do I know if this issue is caused by the window motor or regulator?
Guys, how do I know if this issue is caused by the window motor or regulator?
This is a classic and textbook failure of the window motor. Specifically it is the thermal cutoff switch inside the motor failing. This is why the motor works after letting it sit for a while. The switch cools down for a while and will work for short bit. The switch is designed to shut off the motor when the window finishes its normal travel. When the window is all the way up or down, the glass stops heating, the circuit heats up, and the switch cuts off power to the motor. When this switch goes bad, it heats up prematurely and cuts off power prematurely.
This problem will get progressively worse (quickly) until the motor doesn't work at all. Your best course of action is to NOT use the window once you get it all the way back up, until you can replace the motor.
You can also open the door and pull up on the glass while you try to raise the window and that might help you get it to the full-up position before the motor cuts out on you again.
There are many many threads on this site about these issues, but the best method (we won't cover them here again) for you and the car is to replace the motor using the shbox method: http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
There are many many threads on this site about these issues, but the best method (we won't cover them here again) for you and the car is to replace the motor using the shbox method: http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
Forget regulator replacement in a case like this. All you need to do is listed in the link above; motor only (so you don't need to touch the regulator rivets).
This is a classic and textbook failure of the window motor. Specifically it is the thermal cutoff switch inside the motor failing. This is why the motor works after letting it sit for a while. The switch cools down for a while and will work for short bit. The switch is designed to shut off the motor when the window finishes its normal travel. When the window is all the way up or down, the glass stops heating, the circuit heats up, and the switch cuts off power to the motor. When this switch goes bad, it heats up prematurely and cuts off power prematurely.
This problem will get progressively worse (quickly) until the motor doesn't work at all. Your best course of action is to NOT use the window once you get it all the way back up, until you can replace the motor.
You can also open the door and pull up on the glass while you try to raise the window and that might help you get it to the full-up position before the motor cuts out on you again.
There are many many threads on this site about these issues, but the best method (we won't cover them here again) for you and the car is to replace the motor using the shbox method: http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
thank you for explaining it in detail for me. I appreciate it. I was thinking of changing the switch on the driver’s side that controls the passenger side window to solve the issue of it not closing all the way up so I can get rid of the tiny space left. It only closes all the way up when using the switch on the passenger side though.
now regarding the above link and changing the window motor, is there a way to change the motor without having to drill holes? Please excuse my ignorance.
i Was thinking of changing both the motor and the regulator at the same time as I don’t know which one is failing. I’m afraid to change the motor but then the regulator is causing the problem. or is it just the motor in my case? I thought that changing the motor and regulator both at the same time would be easier.
I’m having difficulty finding a garage where I live in UAE that is capable of doing such a job, I’m not mechanically inclined nor skilled to do such a job alone. Maybe I would be if I had someone that knows what they’re doing assisting me. For example a buddy of mine and myself changed the gears on both headlight motors to brass gears instead of the plastic ones. But to tackle a job like changing the window motor is out of my expertise.
Forget regulator replacement in a case like this. All you need to do is listed in the link above; motor only (so you don't need to touch the regulator rivets).
thank you for your reply, I was thinking about getting both changed to be honest with you, but now I’m not sure if it will be such an easy job changing both, plus I really don’t want to drill holes, I don’t know if there’s another way, please forgive my ignorance in this f body platform, I’m really new to this car and I’m just starting to understand how everything works, even with all the problems I need to deal with I still like it.
now regarding the above link and changing the window motor, is there a way to change the motor without having to drill holes?
No. No matter how you change the motor, drilling is going to be involved. If you have a good mechanic, you can take them the instructions (even translated) from the shbox site we linked above and they should be able to understand what is going on.
Per the comments in your other thread about your window switches, you might try the switches first. Replacing the switch is a simple operation and just prying things with a flat screw driver.
Not to completely derail this thread, but do people still do a wiring mod for the passenger window to get full battery power?
I remember back in the day it was popular, I think a relay was added or something on the passenger side.
We've pretty much debunked that and the mode is on the shelf next to the snake oil. The new motors on the market these days (along with the shbox guides on proper adjustment) are fine and typically solve people's problems.
We've pretty much debunked that and the mode is on the shelf next to the snake oil. The new motors on the market these days (along with the shbox guides on proper adjustment) are fine and typically solve people's problems.
no, doing the wire mod is a must and you might as well do it while you are replacing the motor. GM cheaped out on the wiring from the factory and the wire mod kit is an easy install and corrects this.
No. No matter how you change the motor, drilling is going to be involved. If you have a good mechanic, you can take them the instructions (even translated) from the shbox site we linked above and they should be able to understand what is going on.
Per the comments in your other thread about your window switches, you might try the switches first. Replacing the switch is a simple operation and just prying things with a flat screw driver.
much appreciated 👍 thank you for sharing, I won’t be touching the window regulator, just change the window motor in the future. And also change the window switches on the driver’s side to solve the issue of the tiny bit of space always left. The space goes away after using the passenger side switch on the passenger door panel.
no, doing the wire mod is a must and you might as well do it while you are replacing the motor. GM cheaped out on the wiring from the factory and the wire mod kit is an easy install and corrects this.
The window motors on my '98 are 25 years old (original) and still work great, no wire mod. The various reasons why these motors fail (and there are several) has nothing to do with the wiring. That mod might make an already weak motor seem a little bit better, but it's not a magic cure or a "must" to prevent failure in the first place.
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Weird passenger window issue 
