What Engine oil do you use???????
just sharing my personal experience brother. my trans am runs great running it.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2022
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From: Alaska
It's an OIL thread Geek, just throwin dirt clods at ya 
.
. The REAL answer is that clean, frquently changed name brand modern spec motor oils are ALL pretty damn good.
I am in Alaska, so I run Synthetic 5W-30 in EVERYTHING.
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. The REAL answer is that clean, frquently changed name brand modern spec motor oils are ALL pretty damn good.
I am in Alaska, so I run Synthetic 5W-30 in EVERYTHING.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
This is a really broad question. I have long been a proponent of outlawing this question on this site. ...Much like outlawing playing Stairway to Heaven in a guitar store. 
The heavy weight oils you mentioned would act like cement in your engine in cold weather, so @NC01TA 's post is instructive. If you want to get into technical stuff about oil, this is a great site: https://bobistheoilguy.com/
The truth of the world is that most F Bodies in circulation are destined for the crusher and only need (and deserve) the cheapest bottle of oil on the shelf that meets the specifications in the Owners Manual. If you have special features of your engine, or if you have oil problems, or are looking to get something special out of your oil, please share that. (Otherwise, you are likely to receive a lot of digested and regurgitated corporate marketing in our responses.)
If you are worried about your engine and your oil, I would recommend starting with an oil analysis first. (Otherwise, you are just shooting in the dark.) I use this company and have been happy with their output: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
The heavy weight oils you mentioned would act like cement in your engine in cold weather, so @NC01TA 's post is instructive. If you want to get into technical stuff about oil, this is a great site: https://bobistheoilguy.com/
The truth of the world is that most F Bodies in circulation are destined for the crusher and only need (and deserve) the cheapest bottle of oil on the shelf that meets the specifications in the Owners Manual. If you have special features of your engine, or if you have oil problems, or are looking to get something special out of your oil, please share that. (Otherwise, you are likely to receive a lot of digested and regurgitated corporate marketing in our responses.)
If you are worried about your engine and your oil, I would recommend starting with an oil analysis first. (Otherwise, you are just shooting in the dark.) I use this company and have been happy with their output: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Everything is a guess and/or anecdotal unless you've done some UOAs (Used Oil Analysis) to see the real results over time. This is how we discovered that M1 0W40 tended to show better results in LS1 engines than the recommended 5 or 10 w30 grades of the same brand (M1 0W40 is on the "thin" side of a w40, which is about ideal for an LS1 on average).
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 295
Likes: 102
From: Duluth, Minnesota
I run T5 in mine.
A majority of the boosted ls builds up in my neck of the woods runs Rotella. Our engine builders told us to and we have never questioned it. And no he isnt some backwoods joe schmoe who puts together our motors. Very reputable builder.
A majority of the boosted ls builds up in my neck of the woods runs Rotella. Our engine builders told us to and we have never questioned it. And no he isnt some backwoods joe schmoe who puts together our motors. Very reputable builder.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
High zinc/phos content isn't a huge concern with roller cammed engines such as an LS1 (this is more for the old flat tappet stuff like my dinosaur SBC and SBO), but for the folks who want zinc/phos and don't like Rotella for whatever reason, Valvoline VR1 is specifically a high zinc content oil offered in several different grades.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 95
Likes: 10
From: Toronto
This is pretty much the best answer that could possibly be posted, so I will quote it for additional attention!
Everything is a guess and/or anecdotal unless you've done some UOAs (Used Oil Analysis) to see the real results over time. This is how we discovered that M1 0W40 tended to show better results in LS1 engines than the recommended 5 or 10 w30 grades of the same brand (M1 0W40 is on the "thin" side of a w40, which is about ideal for an LS1 on average).
Everything is a guess and/or anecdotal unless you've done some UOAs (Used Oil Analysis) to see the real results over time. This is how we discovered that M1 0W40 tended to show better results in LS1 engines than the recommended 5 or 10 w30 grades of the same brand (M1 0W40 is on the "thin" side of a w40, which is about ideal for an LS1 on average).
Thanks
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Knappa, Oregon
I recommend using oil in your engine. Brands are just a matter of personal tastes.
Personally I use Moble 1, 5w-30, as recomended by the manufacturer for these LS1 engines. I even changed the oil filler cap to a Corvette one that states this right on the cap.
157k miles, daily driver, uses maybe 1/2 quart a year, no smoking, no blow-by. clean as a whistle last time I pulled off the valve covers. Change the oil in early spring, mid summer, and as late as I can in the fall. 3 times per year. Drive about 20k miles all year.
Change it, check it often, keep it clean. That is about all you need to do.
Personally I use Moble 1, 5w-30, as recomended by the manufacturer for these LS1 engines. I even changed the oil filler cap to a Corvette one that states this right on the cap.
157k miles, daily driver, uses maybe 1/2 quart a year, no smoking, no blow-by. clean as a whistle last time I pulled off the valve covers. Change the oil in early spring, mid summer, and as late as I can in the fall. 3 times per year. Drive about 20k miles all year.
Change it, check it often, keep it clean. That is about all you need to do.
while rotella T6 multi vehicle may meet the API SN.....there are still better choices....and diesel oils do not have the high zinc levels as they had in the past ....if you do have a car that requires high zinc ( flat tappet cams ) there are oils out there just for you
where is our oil guy when we need him !!
where is our oil guy when we need him !!
This doesn't change anything. Even if you were racing and doing something exotic, you would still pick a proper oil for your temperature range while sitting in storage. Emergencies also happen and the last thing you would want is to go move your car during a cold snap and have the oil not flowing through the engine...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 95
Likes: 10
From: Toronto
To be honest I didn't expect this many different options, I like it though.
Back in the day I was using Redline 20W-50 in my Z that I supercharged and had no issues with it, same as my brother Trans AM.
BUT always used a GM oil filter never aftermarket I seen to many cars come in the shop with lower oil pressure because of aftermarket oil filters.
Thanks
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Back in the day I was using Redline 20W-50 in my Z that I supercharged and had no issues with it, same as my brother Trans AM.
BUT always used a GM oil filter never aftermarket I seen to many cars come in the shop with lower oil pressure because of aftermarket oil filters.
Thanks
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If the engine is under warranty, then use what will keep it under warranty. Else base it upon the bearing clearances, oil operating temperatures and UOAs. I get nervous about having a CsT under 9 for abusive conditions. I was running Redline 5W30 on my 2019 engine rebuild with a K&N filter. Late last year I switched to a Fram Ultra filter & High Performance Lubricants No VII Euro 5W-30 at the recommendation of the board tribologist (@Polyalphaolefin).$0.02
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From: Poway, Ca. where GOD and the sun always shines
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I also use the M1 filters, but I use the smaller/stock size M1-107 version. No issues with pressure using this filter. I used to use the AC Delco UPF (ultra) series when they were still in production many, many years ago, but switched to M1 after those were no longer made.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 877
Likes: 55
From: Poway, Ca. where GOD and the sun always shines
I also use the M1 filters, but I use the smaller/stock size M1-107 version. No issues with pressure using this filter. I used to use the AC Delco UPF (ultra) series when they were still in production many, many years ago, but switched to M1 after those were no longer made.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2024
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Valvoline full synthetic 5w30 and NAPA Gold oil filter ( Wix) I may switch to 10w30 next time as it is stored all winter long.02 trans am . I have a 2011 HHR with 218k on it. It dont use oil between changes and zero motor problems ever. 2;2 engine. I run NAPA oil in that ( valvoline oil and gold filter) I change the oil by mileage, not by the oil reminder. 3500 to 4000. Buddy's wife has a 2016 equinox 125k and it takes a quart of oil every 10 days. She tells him months after the oil reminder light comes on. "oh it just came on last week" is her favorite line. 14k between changes. Now a junk engine. In my 78 406 SBC I run VR-1 Valvoline in a special weight 10w35. 3 quarts of 10w30 and 3 quarts of 10w40. In the past I tried Kendall Titanium oil and had oil analyses done after each oil change, 5.3 Silverado. It always came back with very good results. I may switch to Pennzoil Ultra next time. Heard good reviews on it and it costs the same as the Valvoline. When Mobil 1 first came out they claimed 15k between oil changes. Not gonna happen here. My 58 Ford tractor gets 15w40 Rotella and my lawn tractor gets 30w Rotella. Good filters and frequent oil changes are the way to go. Brand isnt as important anymore as long as its rated for your engine. Brands I've used over the years are Quaker State, Pennzoil, Shell, Amsoil, Kendall, Valvoline, Castro, Mobil One, Chevron and Brad Penn. Cant say anything bad about any of them. Filters used are Wix, Purolator Pure One, AC Delco, or Baldwin. (wix=napa)
Last edited by rocket dawg; Mar 21, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
Some very good posts on the subject but long story short the engine bearing clearances dictate what weight of oil to use. I would not recommend a 50W oil to be used in an engine with clearances for 30W oil yet people have done it and like that warm fuzzy feeling they get by seeing higher oil pressure on the oil pressure gauge. Hey it's your engine so put what you want in it but not all engine oils are the same and some do a better job of protecting parts than others. I take the spare no expense approach when it comes to what oil I use and how often it's changed in the hot rods..
