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Hey everyone, I've searched for this topic and found some things; but it all seems to be rather scattered. Is there a procedure or write up somewhere about testing the Window Motor; to see if its gone bad or if something else can be fixed BEFORE I replace the whole window motor?
THE PROBLEM:
My passenger side window is down. When I push the Drivers Side OR Passengers Side window button, I hear a "Click" from inside the Passenger Side door with the problematic window.
Can someone point me to a good write up on how to possibly trouble shoot this? And if I have to replace the motor.... then a good write up for that?
Thanks everyone, I'm not too mechanically gifted, but if theres a good write up I can give it a shot.
I've used this method myself, it is BY FAR the best way to do it - and makes future replacements easier. Also, while you are in there, consider lubricating the window tracks, etc, with this product:
^ I don't recommend that method above. That method involves removing the regulator, thus removing the special aluminum jacketed rivets. Every time you do that, you're risking a potential enlargement of the mounting hole (especially if the drill slips or penetrates too far) which will eventually become a huge problem. And you MUST use the correct replacement rivet (not just size, but composition, otherwise it will enlarge the hole over time).
The method I posted above (here it is again: http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html ) is by far the least risky and most serviceable option. You're just making a few minor access holes that won't in any way hurt the integrity of the door nor will anybody ever see them (even less invasive than the trap door method for fuel pump replacement). The newer motors likely won't last as long as the original, and using this method makes future replacements very simple without the need for repeatedly removing the regulator or risking enlargement of those regulator mounting holes.
FYI the Dorman window regulator does come with the replacement rivets.
Are they the correct ones now? There was a time that you had to get the proper ones from GM, otherwise the standard rivets provided with other assemblies didn't have the proper jacket material and would enlarge the hole over time.
Not sure, I purchased one last year for the drivers side door from the local parts store and it came with a bag of rivets. I haven't installed it to see how it all works out yet and what sucks is that I paid a paint and body shop to install new window motors and within a years time the driver side doesn't work anymore and the passnger side seems slower than it should be.
They may have drilled holes through the door panel and installed them on the window regulator too and just used cheap parts IDK. I've seen videos of people doing it that way and I'm not opposed of doing it that way either but it looks simple enough from the video posted but if it could lead to the mounting holes becoming enlarged over time that would be a concern.
I've used this method myself, it is BY FAR the best way to do it
My two sons and I have had 9 4th gen Firebirds. I've done this job more times than I can remember, and this is definitely the easy way to do it. I saw a tech in my buddy's shop doing it once with the regulator out and all that - what a mess. I told him "Dude, you don't have to do all that. Costs the shop too much time and the customer too much money.".
My two sons and I have had 9 4th gen Firebirds. I've done this job more times than I can remember, and this is definitely the easy way to do it. I saw a tech in my buddy's shop doing it once with the regulator out and all that - what a mess. I told him "Dude, you don't have to do all that. Costs the shop too much time and the customer too much money.".
Yeah, that's why I'm having to have it done all over again only this time I'll take the bull by the horns. You want something done right you have to do it yourself. They either used crap motors or the bolts are getting loosened because they didn’t use the blue thread locker.
While it's open replace with better motors. I don't know if LUP makes them anymore but I went with his brackets awhile back and corvette motors and my windows go up and down quick.
I hear a "Click" from inside the Passenger Side door with the problematic window.
A click or a grind? How long have you had the car? Are you the original owner???
All good stuff above. +1 on the shbox method and there can't be enough said about this being the way to go and the most durable solution for the door/car. However, there are situations where people have replaced the motor (keeping the regulator in place) and attached the two with bolts instead of rivets and NOT used locking nuts. In these situations, the motor can become loose and not engage the regulator properly.
I would start by removing the door panel and seeing what is there. If someone has done a shbox replacement before, (and the extra holes are drilled) I would start by checking out their bolt job.
However, there are situations where people have replaced the motor (keeping the regulator in place) and attached the two with bolts instead of rivets and NOT used locking nuts. In these situations, the motor can become loose and not engage the regulator properly.
Yep, made that mistake on one of my first jobs and learned the hard way.
I replaced the driver side on my DD with a Cardone unit 20 years ago and it still works great. I was lazy about the passenger side until about 2 years ago and so far same result.
Hearing a click on the passenger side tells you the power is making it over there, your window motor is locked up and it is not difficult to change the motor, drill the rivets and use the nuts and bolts that come with the new motor, then lube the tracks you will be pleased with the results
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Window Motor Failure Help 
