Ok, so let me get this right, if i disconnect the PCM BAT and IGN fuses and then put them back in the car and start it up, it will reset the codes and the ses light. And if it is the sensors it will show then when i take it to auto zone and get a diagnostic check done?

 

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "on" position.

Pop the hood and find the 2 fuse boxes on the drivers side.

Look on the lid of the fuse box for the location of a PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses.

Pull both fuses out and set them in a safe spot.

Wait 10 minutes.

Turn the car off.

Install the fuses back in the spots where you pulled them from.

Turn the car back on and drive it around the block.

Post on this thread and tell us what happened and if the Service Engine Soon light came on.


If you need help you can IM me @ Big Hawgs

 

I know its expensive but just take it to a dealership, they have all the correct tools for fixing chevrolet vehicles. Instead of going to all these other part stores, get it done right the first time. I know its a lot more expensive but you've already spent $300 at pep boys, and they gave you the wrong part. Just my opinion.

 

I don't know how much techs in your fine state of Texas make but our aprentices make 30 grand a year.My whole point here is that pulling a pcm fuse is not going to fix this girls car.And the pcm does not "relearn" sensors after pulling a fuse.

 

I went through the whole converter thing just today. My car is a 02 with 54,000mi. and my SES light was on so I took it to the dealer, and GUESS WHAT? The converter was puttin out a low efficiency signal. The guy at the service desk said that there was a 8/year 80,000mi. warranty on it so it was replaced for FREE!!! It might be something worth checking out!

 

I have already said that resetting her PCM will not fix her car. From a previous post directed to you...


Your reading skills are lackluster at best.


Tell me why last year when I went to get my car inspected none of my sensors were "ready" after reseting the PCM to try and get rid of a DTC 2 miles before I got it inspected?

 

Yes but this is not "relearning" sensors.The pcm needs to set its OBD2 readiness.This is done by running onboard tests.My whole point is that if a vehicle sets a dtc in its pcm ,it does it for a reason.I understand that you are aware that pulling a fuse will not fix this girls car.My point is that you are not gonnna change any running parameters by as you say"reset"the pcm.The reason your car was not ready for emmisions testing after you triedreseting your pcm is because it sometimes takes a couple of days for the pcm to run all of its OBD2 tests.

 

Well havent gotten a chance to check the fuses yet, but called the ford dealership that we bought the camaro from and they said warranty was only till 36000 miles so calledChevy and they said that they will hook it ti the machine for 79.00 and it may be the catylitic converter and if so that is covered under warranty and thell fix for free but needless to say if i spend the 79, theyll tell me whats wrong with it.

 

are you going to do that? keep us updated.

 

Hmm, I just joined this site recently, so sorry I didn't throw my 2 cents in earlier. If you haven't taken it to the dealer yet, there's a couple things you may be able to try. I agree with some previous posts here that reference a possible failed cat. If I had to make an educated guess, that's definitely where I'd go. Other than an exhaust backpressure gauge (ideal), you can determine if a cat is restricted by checking engine vacuum. This can be done with a vacuum gauge (Duh!) or by referencing your MAP sensor values. I realize you are lacking a scan tool, but if you happen to have a DVOM, you can backprobe the the MAP signal wire at idle. If memory serves me, 5V reference is generally the gray and low reference is generally black, so backprobe the one that's not gray or black. If you really are able to try this, let me know and I can double check the wire colors on SI. A normal engine should have about 18 inches of vacuum at idle. This equates to about 1 to 1.5V on a MAP sensor. A restricted cat will lower your vacuum at idle (can't get the air out, so we can't get as much air in) As vacuum decreases, MAP voltage increases, so if you read near 2V or any higher, this is a pretty good indication that you have a restricted exhaust.

I know it's a pretty round about way to come to that conclusion, but lacking a backpressure gauge (you'd be amazed how many dealers don't have this "essential" tool) that's about the best method I can come up with.

If all this is way over your head, I understand, but I'd like to help if I can, and short of telling you to just take it to the dealer, that's about the best advice I can give.

Also, if you need to post for help again, it may not hurt to say you've got a V6 off the bat. I'm not trying to bust your *****, I just assumed it was an LS1 when the thread started, and was surprised when it finally came out that it was a V6. Same theory for V6 and V8 applies in this case, but it may waste a lot of time in a different scenario. Just a thought :-) Any other questions, I'd be glad to help.

 

I noticed that no one have said anything about the EGR, now I know that us with LS1s either don't have it or get rid of it.


An EGR system problem can cause both the lean codes being throws(and misdiaognosed by Pep Boys as O2s sensors) and the car running like its been neutered. This can also happen within the mileage this car has on it, not to mention the vacuum leak sound that goes away........


We had a Ford van at work that had 34,000 miles on it when it started showing those same codes and detonating so bad it made my skin crawl. No matter how high octane gas you put it in the detonation was still there and it got to the point where it would bearly pull it self. It was found to have a bad EGR and yes it did die ever once in a while.


So it just my .02 but I would have the EGR system checked .

 

Im with anthony M on this one. And for cryin out loud, lets not resort to money namecalling here.

Resetting the PCM will do absolutely nothing in this Case. Who cares about sensors now. OBDII computers are smart in some aspects and completely blind and stupid in other aspects.

Unplug the MAF, it will default into Speeddensity just fine and rule out that problem.

Sounds like a clogged cat to me. It doesnt take much when things to wrong to melt the brick in there.

Ive had a melted cat before and it just wont go. Its like a banana in the tailpipe

If you feel like driving to Lafayette this weekend, I will do my best to fix the problem.