window radio problem very weird
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Teching In
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window radio problem very weird Hi all.
sometimes when i'm driving my 98 camaro, the radio goes off. when this happens, the power windows on both driver and passenger side stops working. all other electrical things work. this happens on both smooth roads and bumpy roads so bumps are not the problem. anyone ever heard or had this happen?
any suggestions on a fix?
thanks
jason
sometimes when i'm driving my 98 camaro, the radio goes off. when this happens, the power windows on both driver and passenger side stops working. all other electrical things work. this happens on both smooth roads and bumpy roads so bumps are not the problem. anyone ever heard or had this happen?
any suggestions on a fix?
thanks
jason
Dude... That IS weird!! 
I've never heard of this happenning!
Can you turn the radio back on or do you have to restart the car?
I'm pretty sure that the windows and radio are on separate circuits which makes this even weirder. Maybe there's a problem with a wiring harness that houses both sets of wires. If for some reason there was a short in a harness to another wire or ground, it might cause them both to stop working. But if that was happenning... You should be blowing some fuses. Sorry I don't have more to offer you here. Good Luck!
I've never heard of this happenning!Can you turn the radio back on or do you have to restart the car?
I'm pretty sure that the windows and radio are on separate circuits which makes this even weirder. Maybe there's a problem with a wiring harness that houses both sets of wires. If for some reason there was a short in a harness to another wire or ground, it might cause them both to stop working. But if that was happenning... You should be blowing some fuses. Sorry I don't have more to offer you here. Good Luck!
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nope dont have to restart anything. it just goes off and then comes back on. kinda like how everything will work with the key in the off position until u open the door. hmm wonder if it could be the door open switch.
any sugesstions?
jason
any sugesstions?
jason
It's been a while since anybody wrote about this one.... Have you figured out the problem yet? It sounded like you were going down the right path. I forgot about that door switch thing. For that to happen, though, that circuit would have to think that your ignition is off and the door is open. Anybody know how that thing is wired?
Thread Starter
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here is a link from the v6 page. camfan is having the same problem. maybe one of us will get lucky and find out what the problem is
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ead.php?t=7757
good luck and happy hunting
jason
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...ead.php?t=7757
good luck and happy hunting
jason
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Teching In
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From: Zionsville, IN
Same issue here. Most of the time it happens right as or very shortly after I start the car. REALLY sucks when it's hot as hell and you're trying to get the windows down quick! Radio usually comes back on and windows start working within a minute or two though.
I'm thinking it's probably some sort of problem with the body control module. Might just be a bad/corroded connection, or could be similar to when a relay sticks. Not sure if the BCM is digital or relay driven though, so I can't be sure on the sticking theory.
Shack
I'm thinking it's probably some sort of problem with the body control module. Might just be a bad/corroded connection, or could be similar to when a relay sticks. Not sure if the BCM is digital or relay driven though, so I can't be sure on the sticking theory.
Shack
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Same problem with radio & windows Hi Guys,
My radio and windows stopped working the other day. I thought it was a battery/alternator problem because when it they came back on and I tried the windows, the radio went off when bringing the windows down, but then came back after they were down. Also, the power antenna goes up half way, and then comes down again. There was once when I disconnected the radio accesory fuse, the radio and windows began working again. I haven't been able to reproduce this condition though. I had the alternator tested - it's fine and the battery produces 10.2V. This is on the low side so I think I'll get that replaced just cause, but everyone I ask thinks this is probably not the problem.
The antenna seems to try to go up when the revs are high and there was a point when high revs would make the radio and windows come back but they are just not working now.
Can anybody out there help?
Thanks Leslie
My radio and windows stopped working the other day. I thought it was a battery/alternator problem because when it they came back on and I tried the windows, the radio went off when bringing the windows down, but then came back after they were down. Also, the power antenna goes up half way, and then comes down again. There was once when I disconnected the radio accesory fuse, the radio and windows began working again. I haven't been able to reproduce this condition though. I had the alternator tested - it's fine and the battery produces 10.2V. This is on the low side so I think I'll get that replaced just cause, but everyone I ask thinks this is probably not the problem.
The antenna seems to try to go up when the revs are high and there was a point when high revs would make the radio and windows come back but they are just not working now.
Can anybody out there help?
Thanks Leslie
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Could this have something to do with the RAP Module? I've been looking through the wiring diagrams thinking of some link between the radio and the windows. Short of a lack of general power in the car (perhaps these systems are the most sensitive to voltage and current drops), the Retained Accessory Power Module is at least one way that the windows are connected to the radio. I will play with this tomorrow and see if I get anywhere. What do you guys think?
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From: Zionsville, IN
Originally Posted by babs95transam
I've been looking through the wiring diagrams thinking of some link between the radio and the windows. Short of a lack of general power in the car (perhaps these systems are the most sensitive to voltage and current drops), the Retained Accessory Power Module is at least one way that the windows are connected to the radio. I will play with this tomorrow and see if I get anywhere. What do you guys think?
I don't think it's a low voltage problem, since I have a fairly new Optima redtop in my car. Sticking a multimeter on the battery both while the car is off and while it's running show good voltage, so the alternator is good as well.
Either way, where are you finding actual useful wiring diagrams? Hanes/Chilton manuals are usually useless, and I don't really want to spend $100+ on the dealer service manuals... I'm just a poor college kid after all.
(Although, I think I probably will pick up a set before too long.)Shack
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just the hanes manual Hi Shack,
I think we are thinking of the same module. It's under the dash right beside the power window module on the firewall about in the middle. The RAP is the module that keeps the radio etc. on when you turn the car off but don't open the doors.
I'm just looking in the hanes manual. The diagrams are basic for sure, but the power window diagram said that it gets power when on, ignition or when the RAP is energized. That's what got me thinking. I'm looking forward to trying it in the sunlight. I'll let you know how it goes.
I think we are thinking of the same module. It's under the dash right beside the power window module on the firewall about in the middle. The RAP is the module that keeps the radio etc. on when you turn the car off but don't open the doors.
I'm just looking in the hanes manual. The diagrams are basic for sure, but the power window diagram said that it gets power when on, ignition or when the RAP is energized. That's what got me thinking. I'm looking forward to trying it in the sunlight. I'll let you know how it goes.
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From: Zionsville, IN
Leslie,
You were correct, the RAP is the one I'm thinking of. I might try and lodge myself under the dash on my back tomorrow with a multimeter. Could be something as simple as just a lose/corroded ground. Would be nice if I could easily reproduce the problem so I could try and trace the loss of power starting at the RAP. Likewise, I'll let you know if I figure anything out.
BTW, any chance I could get a scan of that schematic? Basic is better than nothing, sometimes. If so, PM me and I'll give you an email address to send it to.
Shack
You were correct, the RAP is the one I'm thinking of. I might try and lodge myself under the dash on my back tomorrow with a multimeter. Could be something as simple as just a lose/corroded ground. Would be nice if I could easily reproduce the problem so I could try and trace the loss of power starting at the RAP. Likewise, I'll let you know if I figure anything out.
BTW, any chance I could get a scan of that schematic? Basic is better than nothing, sometimes. If so, PM me and I'll give you an email address to send it to.
Shack
I've had the same problem for about a year now. Seems to be getting worse. Hopefully we can figure out something. My initial thought was that it was an ignition wire causing the problem, because my radio retains its settings, so it cant be power or ground, but rather the ignition. Either way hope this helps.
Last edited by SidewayzOZ; Sep 7, 2005 at 10:50 AM.
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I think I got it. Hi Guys,
I played with the RAP (retained accesory power) module and the radio and windows started working. I took the RAP apart and it was burning hot. I don't know if it's supposed to get hot, but it was the dkblue wire terminal that had black marks on it. (anyone have a wiring diagram for the RAP?) I put everything back and made sure the connections were OK and it all works now. We'll see for how long...
My passenger side window is slower then the driver's side. (that's how it was before) My mechanic was saying that it might be that the motor is drawing more power then it should and overloading the circuit. dunno.
FYI: when I disconnect the RAP the radio and the windows don't work.
Hope this helps you guys. Good luck.
I played with the RAP (retained accesory power) module and the radio and windows started working. I took the RAP apart and it was burning hot. I don't know if it's supposed to get hot, but it was the dkblue wire terminal that had black marks on it. (anyone have a wiring diagram for the RAP?) I put everything back and made sure the connections were OK and it all works now. We'll see for how long...
My passenger side window is slower then the driver's side. (that's how it was before) My mechanic was saying that it might be that the motor is drawing more power then it should and overloading the circuit. dunno.
FYI: when I disconnect the RAP the radio and the windows don't work.
Hope this helps you guys. Good luck.
TECH Veteran
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From: Beaumont, TX
RAP is a relay within the BCM, dark blue runs to the IP fuse block
Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Schematics attached.
"The retained accessory power (RAP) system is a subsystem of the body control module (BCM). The RAP system provides the following features:
- Convenience
- Increased security
The RAP system applies battery voltage to the following components:
- The radio fuse 17
- The windows circuit breaker
The RAP system allows operation of the following components:
- The power folding top
- The radio
- The power windows
- The rear fog lamps (Export)
The RAP system allows operation of the above components for approximately 10 minutes after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. Operation is interrupted before the end of 10 minutes if a door is opened.
The RAP system also allows the operation of the door locks and the rear compartment lid release with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
..."
Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Schematics attached.
"The retained accessory power (RAP) system is a subsystem of the body control module (BCM). The RAP system provides the following features:
- Convenience
- Increased security
The RAP system applies battery voltage to the following components:
- The radio fuse 17
- The windows circuit breaker
The RAP system allows operation of the following components:
- The power folding top
- The radio
- The power windows
- The rear fog lamps (Export)
The RAP system allows operation of the above components for approximately 10 minutes after the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. Operation is interrupted before the end of 10 minutes if a door is opened.
The RAP system also allows the operation of the door locks and the rear compartment lid release with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
..."