freshduckie

iTrader: (2)

Ok have a metallic ticking come from valve cover and they said they are replaceing a valve, I also had this randome shudder and rought idle before would this be linked?

My gas gauge acts up, 1st time 6 months ago they replaced the cluster and reinstalled and tested. This time they say they repositioned the needle!? Is this a bunch a bull, should I push real hard for them to replace the sending unit?


Thanks

Dealer will call me back shortly with more info, I mentioned the sending unit already

BLKWS6

the tinging sounds like it could be something simple like a rocker that has come loose. it will make all kinds of racket and trip ur knock sensors making the car run like crap.

ACW

Here is everything that GM says should be done about your gas gauge. I don't see anything about messing with the needle


Fuel Gage Inaccurate or Inoperative

- First test:
Disconnect C405A/C405B.
Connect the J 33431-C Signal Generator and Instrument Panel Tester between the signal circuit of the fuel level sensor and the sensor ground circuit of the fuel level sensor at the male terminal side.
Turn on the ignition, with the engine off.
Important: Verify the J 33431-C resistance settings with a DMM.
Vary the resistance on the J 33431-C from 40-250 ohms. Refer to Fuel Level Specifications in order to convert from resistance to fuel gage display.
When the fuel gauge is at F (88-100%), the resistance should be ~227-250 ohms. At 3/4 (69%), ~199 ohms. At 1/2 (48%), ~165 ohms. At 1/4 (30%), ~130 ohms. At E (0-11%), ~40-82 ohms.
Does the fuel gage display the correct fuel level?

- (Test 2a) If no on the first test:
Install a scan tool.
Turn on the ignition, with the engine off.
Important: Verify the J 33431-C resistance settings with a DMM.
Vary the resistance on the J 33431-C from 40-250 ohms. Refer to Fuel Level Specifications in order to convert from resistance to fuel level %.
Important: Turn OFF the ignition momentarily between the resistance settings in order to quickly update the scan tool display.
With the scan tool, observe the Fuel Tank Level Remaining parameter in the PCM EVAP data list.
Does the scan tool display the correct fuel level %?
(next steps from here are further down)

- (Test 2b) If yes on the first test:
Inspect for the following items:
A poor connection at the harness connector of the fuel level sensor
A high resistance in the signal circuit or the sensor ground circuit between the fuel level sensor and C405A/C405B
A misaligned fuel level sensor
A deformed fuel tank
Did you find and correct the condition?

- If no on the above test (Test 2b):
Remove the fuel level sensor.
Inspect for the following items:
A stuck fuel level sensor, i.e. the fuel strainer interfering with the sensor float arm
Foreign material in the gas tank, i.e. ice
Did you find and correct the condition?

- If no on the above test:
With the J 39200 DMM, measure the resistance of the fuel level sensor while moving the float arm.
Observe both the analog and digital displays on the DMM.
Does the resistance change smoothly across the specified range (40-250 ohms)?

- If no on the above test:
Replace the fuel level sensor.


- If yes on Test 2a:
Replace the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).

- If no on Test 2a:
Test the signal circuit of the fuel level sensor for a high resistance.
Did you find and correct the condition?

- If no on the above test:
Test the sensor ground circuit of the fuel level sensor for a high resistance.
Did you find and correct the condition?

- If no on the above test:
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the PCM.
Did you find and correct the condition?

- If no on the above test:
Replace the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

freshduckie

iTrader: (2)

ACW is there anything written on when the tech should replace the sending unit? They replaced cluster thinking it was yes on test 2a (IPC) but after a few months it acted up again.

Thanks guys

Doug

ACW

I think 'fuel level sensor' is just another name to call the sending unit

freshduckie

iTrader: (2)

Well got car back and feel like I got ripped off again. They would not replace the sending unit, they just took out the gauge and repositioned/readjusted needle. They also told me that under a 1/4 tank the gauge would move and not read completely right and that was normal. Kept telling me to not tap on the glass but I have to tap on it to see how much gas I "had". Then after having all this back and forth trouble they head guy at the dealer said its not the sending unit but we will replace it if you want to pay another 100 dollars deductible! Got to be kidding, so I said no and hope their repositioning works. I told them that the first time they took the cluster out and fixed and retested and put back in the car and they were like that was sent out and we don't know what they did. Anyhow tack one up for the dealer again and I can join the "not a fan of dealers" club. Another funny thing is last time I went in at Sheldon Pontiac on Rochester Rd. and Avon the service rep. there said he would take the 48 bucks off my next deductible, you see I had taken it in to get the gauge fixed while under its 12,000 mile warranty on that and it was not acting up for them so they charged me half a hour labor. Well I took his word and did not get it written down well guess what the dealer would not honor that and did not know where I got that info from. So the experience was not totally bad there but not good thats for sure.

ACW

Dang

How about trying a different dealership, hopefully one that knows how to follow GM's instructions? There's several others within 10 miles of Rochester Hills:

Auburn Pontiac Inc
Pontiac, MI

Noonan Pontiac
Sterling Heights, MI

Somerset Pontiac-GMC Inc
Troy, MI

Golling Pontiac-GMC Truck Inc
Lake Orion, MI

Quality Pontiac
Waterford, MI

Autohahn Quality Pontiac
Waterford, MI

HFLDtA

iTrader: (5)

As hj

freshduckie

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I will go to a different dealer next time. Well on my 2001 they said they replaced the check air valve which I found out recently is about 15 bucks at any parts store and easy to put in yourself. I am not sure what it does ,but the problem the dealer said was it was rattling internally. The fuel gauge well they "repositioned" it, and I filled up the tank that day so not sure if its messed up still or not. I have read from alot of people that the sending unit is the thing to replace, because the gauge just reads a voltage output from the sending unit, its reading a singal. Something to do with the sending unit haveing a bad stop and making a open circuit. Anyhow I heard one guy who had the sending unit replaced under warranty was told it was like 820 bucks to have done at dealer and on more then one occasion the dealer I went to said it was a 8 hour job to drop the gas tank and do this job, which I doubt but its probably takes a while. Thats all I got for now, take care guys.