please explain...i just bought 5qts of m1 5-30 and was gonna mix it with two qts of mobil 5000 10-30 to use in the wifes 99ta.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/94653-mobil-1-question.html


Read this thread

 

Mobil 1 here.

 

ok walmart only had the 5-40 m1 so i bought that and will mix 5 qts of the m1 5-40 with 2 qts of mobil 5000 10-30...hows that?

 

Just use the 5w40 M1. M1 runs at a 9.5ish viscosity rating, much thinner than other 5w30s, so the 5w40 runs at what most excellent 5w30's do.

 

If i had to use either i'd go with whichever cost less..otherwise it's Redline, German Castrol, or Amsoil. So far it's only been redline.

 

Mobil 1 has my vote, however I use Castrol Syntec 10W-30.

 

Mobile1 5-20, but I've heard that Royal Purple is supposed to be atleast 5 hp on dyno.

 

if GM didnt think enough to put syn in the car from the factory why should you put anything else in it? the only reason why they did it in the Vettes is so that the vette guys could say their oil changes are expensive so that must mean their car is good

my car has never had a single quart of syntheic in it (apparently the indiana state police use recycled oil in their cars) i just use valvoline or havoline, whatever cheap stuff i can find at wal mart. LS1s eat synthetic like candy, just slips by the rings, another reason not to spend an extra $25 on an oil change..

 

 

Why?

 

you made my day.

why dont you run some regular oil in your car, and send it in for analysis. then run some good synthetic and send it in for analysis. But you wouldnt believe that because science is obviously a fake front for people to make themselves feel smarter.

Factory Corvettes come with full synthetic Mobil 1. Good day

 

why dont you drive your car for 142,000 miles hard every day with synthic, i bet you will come up with the same or worse results than my car

check and mate

 

Can't say that I agree with this statement. A lot of it passes by the PCV valve into the intake. This is why oil catch cans are so popular on LS1's.

Dino oil (non-synthetic) is better @ keeping seals conditioned & seating properly. This is one reason why AutoRx mandates a Dino oil rinse after treatment. So, if one has a problem with oil slipping past the rings a maintenance dose (3 oz.) of AutoRx mixed with synthetic is just as effective on seals as is Dino oil. Just make sure that the problem is that oil is actually slipping past the rings & not coming through the intake via the PCV valve.

 

Because both of them are too thin for the LS1 and show higher engine wear.

 

Frank (inventor of Auto-rx) recommends dino when doing the Auto-rx cycle because the esters in some synthetics can slow down the cleaning process when combined with the esters in Auto-rx. Dino oil is not better at keeping seals conditioned at all. A synthetic with a high ester content is going to have a larger effect of swelling seals than any dino oil will. A high mileage dino oil with a high ester content can do the same thing.

 

Thank-you for clearing that up. I had missunderstood the concept. Also thought that the reason for the Rx maintenance does was to benefit the seals as well as help to maintain cleanliness. Is this correct?

 

Wow check AND mate? crap. i guess i've been beaten.

 

The main reason for the maintenance doses is to keep the engine clean all the time, without needing to do the full higher dosage later on. The main benefit to the seals is the fact that they get cleaned so they can seal better. This is how RX stops a lot of leaks on older engines.

 

Cool.....Thanks again.