power window problems
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power window problems My babied '01 SS has finally shown it's first symptom. While in traffic, I pushed my driver side power window button down. About 1/4 way, a loud whirring noise and vibration began, but the window stopped, I freaked out and pushed the button back up, but too late. Just more noise and slight vibration, had to manually pull window closed by opening my door and pulling.
Ok, so the button still works, obviously the motor is still running both directions, is there an cheap but effective way to fix this problem, or do I have to go to the dealership?
Ok, so the button still works, obviously the motor is still running both directions, is there an cheap but effective way to fix this problem, or do I have to go to the dealership?
Motor is riveted to inner framework, window mechanism is firmly mounted to inside of door with rivets. Unless some of these mounting points broke loose the only thing that could be happening is that the motor gear teeth and/or the selector teeth are stripped.
Both of these are metal and I have never heard of it happening (doesn't mean it couldn't). Only way to tell this would be to drill out rivets attaching motor and remove for inspection of motor gear (you can't see the motor gear while motor is installed in door).
As you stated that the window raises/lowers part way, I would lean toward a section of the teeth on the window mechanism selector being stripped. If the motor gear teeth were stripped the window would not move at all. You can check the teeth on the selector by removing door panel and pulling window up manually while looking at the selector as it moves past the access holes in the inner door frame.
While you're in there, you might as well buy the Seimens Window Motors (Lifetime Warranty) at Autozone and replace your stockers. It's only a matter of time before they go out and you'll be back to square one. It's a known fact that GM undersized the motors for the application/weight of the windows in our cars. When they start to go South you will first notice that window moves VERY slowly, or goes up in increments, until closed (due to motor overheating - thermal overload kicking motor out - cools - motor kicks back in again).
My motors went out before 30k on the clock
-Jay-
Both of these are metal and I have never heard of it happening (doesn't mean it couldn't). Only way to tell this would be to drill out rivets attaching motor and remove for inspection of motor gear (you can't see the motor gear while motor is installed in door).
As you stated that the window raises/lowers part way, I would lean toward a section of the teeth on the window mechanism selector being stripped. If the motor gear teeth were stripped the window would not move at all. You can check the teeth on the selector by removing door panel and pulling window up manually while looking at the selector as it moves past the access holes in the inner door frame.
While you're in there, you might as well buy the Seimens Window Motors (Lifetime Warranty) at Autozone and replace your stockers. It's only a matter of time before they go out and you'll be back to square one. It's a known fact that GM undersized the motors for the application/weight of the windows in our cars. When they start to go South you will first notice that window moves VERY slowly, or goes up in increments, until closed (due to motor overheating - thermal overload kicking motor out - cools - motor kicks back in again).
My motors went out before 30k on the clock
-Jay-
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From: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Motor is riveted to inner framework, window mechanism is firmly mounted to inside of door with rivets. Unless some of these mounting points broke loose the only thing that could be happening is that the motor gear teeth and/or the selector teeth are stripped.
Both of these are metal and I have never heard of it happening (doesn't mean it couldn't). Only way to tell this would be to drill out rivets attaching motor and remove for inspection of motor gear (you can't see the motor gear while motor is installed in door).
As you stated that the window raises/lowers part way, I would lean toward a section of the teeth on the window mechanism selector being stripped. If the motor gear teeth were stripped the window would not move at all. You can check the teeth on the selector by removing door panel and pulling window up manually while looking at the selector as it moves past the access holes in the inner door frame.
While you're in there, you might as well buy the Seimens Window Motors (Lifetime Warranty) at Autozone and replace your stockers. It's only a matter of time before they go out and you'll be back to square one. It's a known fact that GM undersized the motors for the application/weight of the windows in our cars. When they start to go South you will first notice that window moves VERY slowly, or goes up in increments, until closed (due to motor overheating - thermal overload kicking motor out - cools - motor kicks back in again).
My motors went out before 30k on the clock
-Jay-
Both of these are metal and I have never heard of it happening (doesn't mean it couldn't). Only way to tell this would be to drill out rivets attaching motor and remove for inspection of motor gear (you can't see the motor gear while motor is installed in door).
As you stated that the window raises/lowers part way, I would lean toward a section of the teeth on the window mechanism selector being stripped. If the motor gear teeth were stripped the window would not move at all. You can check the teeth on the selector by removing door panel and pulling window up manually while looking at the selector as it moves past the access holes in the inner door frame.
While you're in there, you might as well buy the Seimens Window Motors (Lifetime Warranty) at Autozone and replace your stockers. It's only a matter of time before they go out and you'll be back to square one. It's a known fact that GM undersized the motors for the application/weight of the windows in our cars. When they start to go South you will first notice that window moves VERY slowly, or goes up in increments, until closed (due to motor overheating - thermal overload kicking motor out - cools - motor kicks back in again).
My motors went out before 30k on the clock
-Jay-
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From: Kaneohe, Hawaii
UPDATE:
I've realized that the motor is still working strong! It's just that the window is not on track anymore. My question is how do I get the window back on track as replacing the motors isn't really an option right now, but perhaps later.
I've realized that the motor is still working strong! It's just that the window is not on track anymore. My question is how do I get the window back on track as replacing the motors isn't really an option right now, but perhaps later.
I'm currently am wrapping up some serious work on my window.
Have you taken your door panel off and looked inside? I know its hard to see inside the shell. I took off the whole plastic covering piece so I could look in there and use a mirror to see around corners. Look at the 4 rivets that attach the inner window regulator to the fiberglass door shell. Are they secure and in place? Mine weren't. I had to drill mine out and go through hell and replace them with nut bolt washer combos. If those are secure, then definitely don't touch them.
You will need to unbolt your speaker from your door to get good access. Feel around inside. Find the large gear arm which is the window regulator. Check out this movie to get a better idea of how the whole thing works inside: http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
Note that there's no motor attached in this pic, but you can see where it does attach and get a good idea. Is it possible that the arm went a tiny bit too far, and maybe lost the track? It seems like it would be hard for that to happen unless one of those guides on the window rail things may have come off their tracks.
I hope that movie helps you diagnose your problem better. In any case you will need to look inside, remove your speaker, and the clear plastic covering, feel around to figure out where the problem is
Have you taken your door panel off and looked inside? I know its hard to see inside the shell. I took off the whole plastic covering piece so I could look in there and use a mirror to see around corners. Look at the 4 rivets that attach the inner window regulator to the fiberglass door shell. Are they secure and in place? Mine weren't. I had to drill mine out and go through hell and replace them with nut bolt washer combos. If those are secure, then definitely don't touch them.
You will need to unbolt your speaker from your door to get good access. Feel around inside. Find the large gear arm which is the window regulator. Check out this movie to get a better idea of how the whole thing works inside: http://shbox.com/1/window_regulator2.wmv
Note that there's no motor attached in this pic, but you can see where it does attach and get a good idea. Is it possible that the arm went a tiny bit too far, and maybe lost the track? It seems like it would be hard for that to happen unless one of those guides on the window rail things may have come off their tracks.
I hope that movie helps you diagnose your problem better. In any case you will need to look inside, remove your speaker, and the clear plastic covering, feel around to figure out where the problem is
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Thread Starter
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From: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Thanks for the vid, I have a friend that's gonna help me with it. I'm really newbie at taking stuff apart, I can add-on, but need help breaking it down. I'll let you know what we find.
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