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GM Top End Cleaner?

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Old 01-27-2006, 06:05 PM
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Default GM Top End Cleaner?

I bought some of this Top End Cleaner from GM because my ta is a 98 and has 60k on it and figured it's pretty carboned up. what i was needing to know was if someone could walk me through exactly how to feed this stuff into the engine? it goes through some instructions on the back, but it is for carbureted engines. i didnt know if there was a write up on this or anything. i searched and didnt find anything, any help would be appreciated, thanks guys!!
Old 01-27-2006, 06:37 PM
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I have done the same thing with Berryman B12 chemtool.
I have always poured it in the oil filler right when I was about to change oil. Just let it run with the whole bottle in there for a few minutes and when you drain it through the drain it will be all chunky and extra nasty. But do it when you change the oil. Don't leave it in there!
Old 01-27-2006, 06:49 PM
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I'm not sure that's the same thing though, I am actually wanting to clean the intake, cylinder heads, and cylinders..... although what you did with the Berryman stuff would probably be a good idea for me to do too.
Old 01-27-2006, 09:09 PM
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this is from what i remember reading on this site:

1. get the engine up to full operating temperature.
2. disconnect the brake booster hose at the brake booster.
3. slowly start to pour the gm top end engine cleaner into the hose.
4. the engine might want to die, so it would be good to have someone else keep the rpms up a bit.
5. once the container is empty, let the engine die.
6. connect the brake booster hose back to the brake booster.
7. after 10 minutes, start the car. if it doesnt start the first time, just try again. it will eventually.
8. enjoy the smoke show out of the exhaust.

if any of this is wrong, please correct me.
Old 01-28-2006, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RemiSS2002
this is from what i remember reading on this site:

1. get the engine up to full operating temperature.
2. disconnect the brake booster hose at the brake booster.
3. slowly start to pour the gm top end engine cleaner into the hose.
4. the engine might want to die, so it would be good to have someone else keep the rpms up a bit.
5. once the container is empty, let the engine die.
6. connect the brake booster hose back to the brake booster.
7. after 10 minutes, start the car. if it doesnt start the first time, just try again. it will eventually.
8. enjoy the smoke show out of the exhaust.

if any of this is wrong, please correct me.
I did the above and then changed the oil/filter afterwards. I used Sea Foam, read that it is the same thing as the "GM Top End Cleaner" for a few bucks less.
Old 01-28-2006, 03:31 PM
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at 60k your engine shouldn't be too carboned up unless you run rich as hell all the time. I've had heads off engines with 100k or more that never had top engine clean run throught them and they were pretty clean, hell the cylinder walls still had the cross-hatching.
Old 01-28-2006, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I have done the same thing with Berryman B12 chemtool.
I have always poured it in the oil filler right when I was about to change oil. Just let it run with the whole bottle in there for a few minutes and when you drain it through the drain it will be all chunky and extra nasty. But do it when you change the oil. Don't leave it in there!
It's not the same thing as he's talking about.
Old 01-28-2006, 04:34 PM
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well i am hoping that it isnt too carboned up, but at only like $6 from the dealership, i figured what's the harm, all it can do is help, right?? and one other question, should i change my plugs after doing this, or should they be alright?
Old 01-28-2006, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 98RedBird
well i am hoping that it isnt too carboned up, but at only like $6 from the dealership, i figured what's the harm, all it can do is help, right?? and one other question, should i change my plugs after doing this, or should they be alright?

Well, most say you don't have to but I ran some Seafoam through and now I have a slight miss and my MPG took a big ****. I'm doing plugs and O2 sensors really soon. It could be, however, just a freak coincidence.
Old 01-28-2006, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I have done the same thing with Berryman B12 chemtool.
I have always poured it in the oil filler right when I was about to change oil. Just let it run with the whole bottle in there for a few minutes and when you drain it through the drain it will be all chunky and extra nasty. But do it when you change the oil. Don't leave it in there!
Holy **** batman! Your'e pretty brave! I've never heard of this before, not too sure i would want b12 chemtool coursing its way through the veins of my LS1.

Top end cleaner cleans out the INTAKE MANIFOLD/Head ports, not the crankcase/valvetrain. If there is some junk stuck on the bottom of my oil pan, i'd rather it stay stuck there. If it hasnt broken loose in all the rhomping i do, i think it'll be alright.

Alot of people on here swear up and down about the wonders of Sea-Foam. You can buy sea foam from most autoparts stores, and use it just like GM top end cleaner.
Old 01-28-2006, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RemiSS2002
this is from what i remember reading on this site:

1. get the engine up to full operating temperature.
2. disconnect the brake booster hose at the brake booster.
3. slowly start to pour the gm top end engine cleaner into the hose.
4. the engine might want to die, so it would be good to have someone else keep the rpms up a bit.
5. once the container is empty, let the engine die.
6. connect the brake booster hose back to the brake booster.
7. after 10 minutes, start the car. if it doesnt start the first time, just try again. it will eventually.
8. enjoy the smoke show out of the exhaust.

if any of this is wrong, please correct me.
This is the proper way to do it. You can also remove the fresh air hose from the front of the passenger side valve cover and feed it into the can, vacuum of the engine should suck it dry.

Be prepared to have MASSIVE amounts of smoke. Think Discount Tire burning to the ground amounts of smoke.

A plug change after the cleaning is always a good idea. Lord knows what kind of gunk will be flowing down the pipes.
Old 01-28-2006, 04:48 PM
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I didnt have much smoke the 2 times I did it. I guess there wasn't much carbon stuck up there
Old 01-28-2006, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Be prepared to have MASSIVE amounts of smoke. Think Discount Tire burning to the ground amounts of smoke.
One of my buddies had done it to his Tahoe just before I drove by his house. All I saw was him standing infront of it and an ENORMOUS cloud of smoke pouring out the tailpipe. First thought was WTF has he torn up now ?
Old 01-28-2006, 10:14 PM
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so Frosty, did you ever figure out what the miss was from, or did it go away? Could it have fouled up your plugs, and that's what caused the miss? It makes me nervous, someone else told me not to do it, because it's worthless to do on a car with 62k miles on it, and that all i would do is screw something up by pouring that stuff in there.
Old 01-28-2006, 10:45 PM
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I think I was due for a tuneup anyway because I drove around after my header install without getting a tune. I was running hella rich so I think that contributed to the plugs and O2 sensors. However I don't know for a fact since I haven't replaced them yet so I don't know for sure what the problem is. It could be a weak coilpack.

I wouldn't worry too much, like I said it very well could be a coincidence.
Old 01-28-2006, 10:56 PM
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Several years ago I spend about about a month @ the GM training center in KC. and they highly recommended the BG top engine cleaner which also has an additive you add to the tank after the service. I saw some before & after pics of the service and it was pretty impressive as far as cleaning carbon build up on the back of the valves (which can cause cold start problems due to the carbon soaking up fuel and causing a lean condition which I did experience on a 3100 engine). It seems that fuel injected engines are more prone to this build up. We recommended this service every 30k. Usually I would run this product in the vacuum line feeding the vacuum brake booster. We had a special cannister that had a valve @ the bottom that allowed you to control the flow of the product into the engine. I would run the engine to about 1500 rpm and feed the product in (via vacuum booster line) and watch inside the container until the product got close the the bottom of the container then I would drop the rpm and open the valve (depending on the engine and the amount of product it would consume) allowing it to kill the enigne. Then let the car sit for a couple hrs. and then take it out for a drive and clean the crap out and let me tell you it will smoke A LOT . We had one tech. get pulled over by the men in blue due to the heavy smoke.

(WARNING If you are not carful and allow too much of the top engine cleaner to flow into the engine you can cause engine damage!!

One tech that I know of got fired for this!!


Hope this helps.
Old 01-29-2006, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by BlkHwk
(WARNING If you are not carful and allow too much of the top engine cleaner to flow into the engine you can cause engine damage!!

One tech that I know of got fired for this!!

IE. bent rod, I knew of a guy at a different shop that did that.

I like the chrysler fuel system cleaning kit it comes with a bottle for the gas tank, a bottle for pouring into the injector flushing canister, and a spray can that is like the top engine cleaner that you spray into the throttle body. I had some good results with it at the dodge dealership when i worked there.
Old 01-29-2006, 09:31 AM
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BlkHwk, well i sure dont want to do any engine damage, how much is too much? Or will i just know.........
Old 01-29-2006, 04:26 PM
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You can't go wrong with the GM Top Engine Cleaner being a spray can. There's not a chance you could bend a rod with it. Even with Sea Foam, you'd have to basically have the whole can ingested in a few seconds to bend a rod.

Jason
Old 02-03-2006, 04:41 AM
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so do i need to change the plugs or oil? i have 4k left on my oil and the plugs/wires and the whole car only has 12k miles.


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