o2 Sensor, Car Bogs and "pops"
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 827
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
o2 Sensor, Car Bogs and "pops" Ok so i put on the Pace setter long tubes on wednesday night, i reused the stock gaskets for the headers, got them in snug and tight. The only problem was the o2 on the stock driver side manifold, the o2 sensor was stuck into place i mean i couldnt get it off for crap. So i put the o2 Sims on the rear (passanger and driver) and since i had taken off both the o2 sensors i decided to use the rear driver side on the front. Today I got the y pipe installed and cutout welded on today. Well after leaving the muffler shop where my friend works, i got on it for the first time, she started to "pop" a lot when in the upper RPM's when this happend she would lose power and want to bog... so i was thinking it was the o2 from the rear...
Well i got home tonight and i finished clamping the y pipe up. Well i soaked the o2 sensor that wouldnt come out with WD-40, i got it out after a crap load of banging, i find out to my surprise that it has been cross threaded
so i pull out the one on the front that i had from the rear and begin to put in the one from the stock manifold, i basically get it all the way in which im pretty sure i did, it was insanly hard to tighten, so i go out for a drive, the car is still "popping" in the high rpm's and she seems to not sound as loud as she did before... Could it be the o2 sensor? or can it be a spark plug wire? or spark plug? i did remove all wires before installing my headers... Please help me thanks!
Or maybe the driver side o2 isnt all the way tight?
you can see in this video where i get on it a little bit the popping sound, its the same as it was with open headers as it is now!
http://media.putfile.com/98-Camaro-LS1-Open-Headers
Well i got home tonight and i finished clamping the y pipe up. Well i soaked the o2 sensor that wouldnt come out with WD-40, i got it out after a crap load of banging, i find out to my surprise that it has been cross threaded
so i pull out the one on the front that i had from the rear and begin to put in the one from the stock manifold, i basically get it all the way in which im pretty sure i did, it was insanly hard to tighten, so i go out for a drive, the car is still "popping" in the high rpm's and she seems to not sound as loud as she did before... Could it be the o2 sensor? or can it be a spark plug wire? or spark plug? i did remove all wires before installing my headers... Please help me thanks!Or maybe the driver side o2 isnt all the way tight?
you can see in this video where i get on it a little bit the popping sound, its the same as it was with open headers as it is now!
http://media.putfile.com/98-Camaro-LS1-Open-Headers
Last edited by Black98Z28; Mar 17, 2006 at 03:56 AM.
FWIW, all four o2 sensors are interchangeable, so moving one from the rear to the front won't hurt anything. As far as the popping, sometimes after a header swap it takes a few driving cycles for the car to "relearn" the fuel curve and it'll spit/sputter for awhile. I'd drive it for a few days and see if it gets any better.
Sounds iginition related to me, get some new plugs (you may have cracked one putting the headers in) a set of NGK TR55s are a popular plug around here, make sure your wires are on good (2 clicks for the coils and one click for the plug) and use some dielectric grease for the boots (makes it easier to get them off)
I also noticed the temp gauge was reading pretty cold, I know on mine if I don't get it warm,(210 indicated) it'll pop a bit on deceleration
I also noticed the temp gauge was reading pretty cold, I know on mine if I don't get it warm,(210 indicated) it'll pop a bit on deceleration
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 827
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
Sounds iginition related to me, get some new plugs (you may have cracked one putting the headers in) a set of NGK TR55s are a popular plug around here, make sure your wires are on good (2 clicks for the coils and one click for the plug) and use some dielectric grease for the boots (makes it easier to get them off)
I also noticed the temp gauge was reading pretty cold, I know on mine if I don't get it warm,(210 indicated) it'll pop a bit on deceleration
I also noticed the temp gauge was reading pretty cold, I know on mine if I don't get it warm,(210 indicated) it'll pop a bit on deceleration
Last edited by Black98Z28; Mar 17, 2006 at 12:39 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 827
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
was checking the passenger side plug wires, found one wire to be loose as hell, so i pulled on it and it came out, i checked the plug and i was able to spin the metal tip, so now im gona take the suv and get a new plug i think this is the problem. I think its plug number 5, 2nd to last one on that side.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 827
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque, NM
well the new plug fixed the popping, last night i was driving around and the car wants to bog and when i get on it a bit i notice shes dumping quite a bit of fuel out back, is this cause of the o2 i replaced? the damn thing might not be in all the way cause it was cross threaded...
The running rich is likely due to the header install, most of the time it'll run rich, but after about 200 miles the PCM will learn what the new afr should be.
It could be the sensor not in all the way, but it also could be just because of the headers (but I'd think you'd get another code if it was the sensor) try taking the o2 out and cleaning up the threads with a tap (you'll likely need a new o2 depending on how bad the threads are)
It could be the sensor not in all the way, but it also could be just because of the headers (but I'd think you'd get another code if it was the sensor) try taking the o2 out and cleaning up the threads with a tap (you'll likely need a new o2 depending on how bad the threads are)
If you're not throwing a code, I'd say that's a good thing. And believe it or not you do need a tune after header install. The A/f may work itself out a bit, but why would you want the car to run sub-optimal after spending all the time and money on headers? Not sure if you were planning on a tune, but it needs it and sounds like it needs to happen soon.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Fort bragg Nc
i'd see what codes your throwing, seen your check engine light on in the vid. I know when i inst. my pacesetter's about 30 miles down the road i thru a code for "lazy 02's". I switched them out from the ones that were in the rear and so far so good. The ones that went bad only had 10 thousand miles on them
J
J
