oil/filter question
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On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Fort Worth, TX
OIL/FILTER QUESTION Team:
I am planing on doing my first synthetic oil change at 3500miles on my 2002 WS6
Which oil between Royal Purple, Redline, and Mobil1 do u recommend for bang for buck?
Also, what type of oil filter shoudl I use?
I plan on changing oil every 5000miles.
Thanks,
Adnan K
I am planing on doing my first synthetic oil change at 3500miles on my 2002 WS6
Which oil between Royal Purple, Redline, and Mobil1 do u recommend for bang for buck?
Also, what type of oil filter shoudl I use?
I plan on changing oil every 5000miles.
Thanks,
Adnan K
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 70
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From: Baton Rouge, La.
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION I use Mobil 1 and AC UPF58(long style) and change my oil and filter every 5000 miles. AC doesn't make the UPF58 anymore but you can still get the UPF44 I think. For more info go to bobistheoilguy.com. Jimmy
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Mentor, Ohio
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION I use 5w30 synthetic (street) version and a PF44 delco filter. I change my oil between 2500-3000miles, depending on how long the car sat and was driven and the conditions of the driving. My oil/filter costs are a small price to pay when I consider my total investment of the car and the time I put into it.
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From: Chicago Far Far South Subs
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION I am a Royal Purple fan here.
Nothing but 10w 30 and the stock AC filter.
Change oil every 6000 miles. Goes in purple and comes out purple!!!!
Nothing but 10w 30 and the stock AC filter.
Change oil every 6000 miles. Goes in purple and comes out purple!!!!
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION I personally like the K&N oil filters. They flow a lot more oil than most (12-16GPM!) but also filter out particles in the 15-18 micron range pretty well. They are durable too, the burst strength is more than triple that of most filters. It's made by the same people that make the Mobil 1, but the filtering media in the M1 is geared more for higher efficiency, while the K&N is for faster oil flow.
Honestly, you can't beat Mobil 1 10w30 for it's availability and price. Redline is a bit better, but more costly too. And as I've said before, if you're using synthetics, you don't need to keep doing 3k oil changes. If you're gonna change that often, just stick with dino oil (except in the extreme cold winters)
Honestly, you can't beat Mobil 1 10w30 for it's availability and price. Redline is a bit better, but more costly too. And as I've said before, if you're using synthetics, you don't need to keep doing 3k oil changes. If you're gonna change that often, just stick with dino oil (except in the extreme cold winters)
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TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Mentor, Ohio
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION Patman- are you suggesting that I change from 5w30 royal purple street version synthetic to 10w30? Is the 10w30 better to use then the 5w30, if so why? What part number K&N filter would the ls1 use? I have just been using the AC-DELCO PF44 and change the oil in my SS ever 2500-3000 miles and the WS6 ever 3000-5000(when ever the light comes on).
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION The reason I prefer the 10w30 over the 5w30 is that in oil analysis results I have seen on 5w30 oil, even synthetics and even Royal Purple, it tends to thin out to a 5w20 oil quite rapidly. This is because 5w30 contains more viscosity index improvers, and these polymers shear back and thin out very easily. They'll also leave behind more varnish as they do this too. Oil analysis results I see on 10w30 almost never show any thinning out of the oil, since it uses little or no VI improvers. The only time it'll thin out is if it's contaminated with fuel.
As far as the K&N oil filters go, the stock part number is HP1007, and the longer one (which I highly recommend) is the HP2006.
As far as the K&N oil filters go, the stock part number is HP1007, and the longer one (which I highly recommend) is the HP2006.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ClassicCollector:
<strong>Hey guys - just want to add on to the discussion - will the longer filter cause any clearance problems?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A lot of people are worried about it, but I ran a longer filter on my 98 Formula the entire time I owned it, and most of that time the car was lowered with Eibachs too. Never a problem. The longer filter only sits a tiny bit lower than the oil pan, and is not the lowest point on the car by any means. Anything that would be large enough to whack the oil filter off, would've damaged the oil pan first anyways.
<strong>Hey guys - just want to add on to the discussion - will the longer filter cause any clearance problems?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A lot of people are worried about it, but I ran a longer filter on my 98 Formula the entire time I owned it, and most of that time the car was lowered with Eibachs too. Never a problem. The longer filter only sits a tiny bit lower than the oil pan, and is not the lowest point on the car by any means. Anything that would be large enough to whack the oil filter off, would've damaged the oil pan first anyways.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Plymouth, MI
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION Is anyone running a 5W-20 synthetic oil? If like Patman says, a 5W-30 breaks down to a 5W-20 due to its VI improvers, why not just start with a 5W-20. I know a lot of racers are using 5W-20 and some are even using the 0W-10 synthetics. Ford is also starting to recommend these thin oils for street cars. Could we LS1 guys be missing something here?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION The problem with starting with the 5w20 oil is that it's unproven as to whether or not this oil is durable enough to protect an engine, especially a hard driven one. That thin oil will shear back easily. I know some race teams use oil this thin for qualifying, but they also rebuild their engines more frequently too. We don't have that luxury. Ford and Honda want people to use 5w20 so that their CAFE goes up. It's only worth about 0.5 MPG, but the possible shortening of an engine's life is just not worth it. I'm not saying 100% for sure that this viscosity oil would be bad, but it's not worth it to be a guinea pig. Let's let the Ford and Honda owners test the waters for us first.
TECH Senior Member
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JWRENCH:
<strong>I'm using 10/30 castrol syntec. I haven't heard of many people using it, but I can't afford mobile1. I also use only AC filters.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't understand. Castrol Syntec is about the same price as Mobil 1. Up here Syntec is more expensive actually.
If you're using Syntec and changing it every 3k, why not go to M1 and do it every 5k, then you'll save money. Or if you change Syntec every 5k, go with M1 and change it every 7-8k. Simple solution. Mobil 1 is light years better than Syntec, which isn't even synthetic.
<strong>I'm using 10/30 castrol syntec. I haven't heard of many people using it, but I can't afford mobile1. I also use only AC filters.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't understand. Castrol Syntec is about the same price as Mobil 1. Up here Syntec is more expensive actually.
If you're using Syntec and changing it every 3k, why not go to M1 and do it every 5k, then you'll save money. Or if you change Syntec every 5k, go with M1 and change it every 7-8k. Simple solution. Mobil 1 is light years better than Syntec, which isn't even synthetic.
TECH Senior Member
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Z/Rated:
<strong>Switched to a Wix filter and my oil pressure now reads much higher, is it really that low of a flow.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Could be! A filter like that might only flow 3-5GPM, while a K&N oil filter will flow 12-16GPM. Try the K&N oil filter and see if your oil pressure changes.
<strong>Switched to a Wix filter and my oil pressure now reads much higher, is it really that low of a flow.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Could be! A filter like that might only flow 3-5GPM, while a K&N oil filter will flow 12-16GPM. Try the K&N oil filter and see if your oil pressure changes.
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From: CLARKSVILLE,TN
Re: OIL/FILTER QUESTION Yeah Patman, the mobil here is almost a dollar more a quart than the Castrol which IS a full synthetic. Maybe you were thinking of syntec blend or gtx? And I usually change it at about 4k miles when it starts to turn from clear to brown. I've been using castrol literally since I was 12 but I would however switch to the more expensive mobile if I had hard proof that it was worth the extra $$$. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />