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Old May 3, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Exclamation Air Conditioner Servicing. How To:

My air conditioner isn't blowing cold air anymore. I bought a can of R-134a (Advance Auto - $28), but i don't kno EXACTLY where to hook up to. Does anyone have any pictures of the nozzle fitting? I've heard that if I hook it up to the high pressure nozzle, it could explode. I don't want that. So can someone help me identify everything. I need a picture.....cause i think the cap fell off.

!HELP! This would be an awesome sticky too....

Someone show me where the low-pressure service port is?




Last edited by ProjectKronos; May 9, 2006 at 10:02 AM.
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Old May 3, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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Don't have any pics, but I wouldn't worry about hooking it up to the wrong fitting. I think the systems are designed so that the hose will only fit on the correct nozzle.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:08 AM
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Last year I replaced the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. Then I had it cleaned and recharged by a shop. This year it was down a bit and I had to recharge it.

I recharged it on the accumulator. There was a fitting on the top part with a blue plastic cap on it that I used. It didn't take very much and it was back on track. I just used one of those kits with the gauge on it from a parts store.
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Old May 4, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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Excellent, thanks for the support...I think I'll try it, if i succeed, I'll post some how to pictures. If I fail, I'll post some "OMG Dont do this or this will happen!" pictures.

Last edited by ProjectKronos; May 4, 2006 at 02:30 PM.
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Old May 4, 2006 | 09:07 PM
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When I first tried to charge it the compressor was hosed and I didn't know it yet. The pressure in the system was WAY high. I tried the fitting I described to you, but didn't know if it was the correct one since it wasn't working.

When I tried it this time the pressure was in the correct zone (Phew!). It was a real good feeling to watch the gas go in and watch the temp go down.

Mission Accomplished!
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Old May 5, 2006 | 12:11 AM
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There fittings will be 2 different sizes. The blue fitting (the Low pressure) goes on the low side. The red fitting goes on the bigger fitting which is the high pressure side. It shouldn't be to hard. It's actually alot easier to do then what's expected. You want to recharge it on the low (blue) side. i'm a bit tired so i hope this doesn't sound out of wack.
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Old May 9, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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I've attached some new pictures to the original post...I'm determined to get this post turned into a "How To:" guide for all...
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Old May 9, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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In the attached photo I show the fitting I used to recharge my A/C...
Attached Thumbnails Air Conditioner Servicing. How To:-lowside.jpg  
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Old May 9, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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Unhappy Thank you!

I tried to service it yesterday....unfortunately the attachment wouldn't go all the way on the fitting...I tried to service it anyway by pushing down...but it didn't work...still no cold air...

Last edited by ProjectKronos; May 10, 2006 at 08:34 AM.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Hey guys-

While I was swapping out my cam/heads I broke one of the lines, let all the R-134a out and have no a/c for this summer..

Anyone have any idea how many cans I'd need to "refill" this joker or if I can do it myself?

I would much rather DIY it than take it to the stealership.. Just called them "A little over $100 bucks" for them to do it..

Anyone?
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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projectkronos, i belive the first picture you have up is to release pressure from the gas lines to work on the gas lines like fuel filter.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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Like others have said, the two ports (high and low) are going to be two different sizes. The idiot proof refill gauges are exactly that: idiot proof. They've got one hose that clips on to the low side and a valve you open to let it in. Most come with a small (and mostly inaccurate) gauge. If you want to spend the big bucks and get an accurate diagnosis of your system, you can buy a complete gauge set with manifold that'll read high and low side.

Keep in mind that a low charge isn't the only thing that can cause it not to blow cold. Make sure your AC clutch is kicking in, if it isn't, disconnect the connector to it, and jump the two terminals with a paper clip. If it kicks in, you've either got a low charge of freon, or it's your A/C relay that's out on you. Also, too much oil in the system, or too much freon can cause it not to blow cold.

Honestly, $100 isn't too shy of what it'd cost do do it yourself. I'm not entirely sure how much out systems hold, but at $8 per 12 ounces (I'm hoping the original poster didn't pay $28 for a little can) plus the effort of repairing that the AC line that you broke, plus fiddling with it in the hot sun.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 03:13 PM
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I'm doing my AC right now. I flushed everything except the compressor, and accumulator.
9 oz PAG 150 oil $9, Two 12oz cans of 134a $14, O-Ring kit $8, flush {brake cleaner and compressed air} $14.
Leak test $0 (I have my own), evacuation $0 (I have my own vacuum pump).
Grand total= $45.

You HAVE TO evacuate the system with a vacuum pump, thats not something you can skip out on. I left mine on the pump all night just for the hell of it, and because the AC was partially removed when I got it. The only thing I'm not doing 100% by the book is reusing the accumulator (thats why it's been on the pump for so long, it's still on it).

Two things---ONE --if your ac stops blowing cold air send me the money instead of buying new refigerant to put in it, you'll get the same results except I'll use the money instead of letting it leak back out and ending up with an ac system with no refrigerant in it within 24 hours.

TWO--- use a vacuum pump to get the ambient air out of the system. Ambient air, moisture, and refrigerant oil do not like each other. It might work but it'll never blow as cold with air and refrigerant in the system.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
I'm doing my AC right now. I flushed everything except the compressor, and accumulator.
9 oz PAG 150 oil $9, Two 12oz cans of 134a $14, O-Ring kit $8, flush {brake cleaner and compressed air} $14.
Leak test $0 (I have my own), evacuation $0 (I have my own vacuum pump).
Grand total= $45.

You HAVE TO evacuate the system with a vacuum pump, thats not something you can skip out on. I left mine on the pump all night just for the hell of it, and because the AC was partially removed when I got it. The only thing I'm not doing 100% by the book is reusing the accumulator (thats why it's been on the pump for so long, it's still on it).

Two things---ONE --if your ac stops blowing cold air send me the money instead of buying new refigerant to put in it, you'll get the same results except I'll use the money instead of letting it leak back out and ending up with an ac system with no refrigerant in it within 24 hours.

TWO--- use a vacuum pump to get the ambient air out of the system. Ambient air, moisture, and refrigerant oil do not like each other. It might work but it'll never blow as cold with air and refrigerant in the system.

Moisture and refrigeration oil = Acid. We don't like acid in the system I hope.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Crimson
Moisture and refrigeration oil = Acid.
and eventually = leaks everywhere.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 98boxer
projectkronos, i belive the first picture you have up is to release pressure from the gas lines to work on the gas lines like fuel filter.
The green cap is for the EVAP system. The fuel line is a black cap you can see in the first picture between the intake manifold and wiring. That's where you can tap in to read fuel pressure too.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by intense3123
The green cap is for the EVAP system. The fuel line is a black cap you can see in the first picture between the intake manifold and wiring. That's where you can tap in to read fuel pressure too.
what is evap and what then is the green cap for? I see the black cap now.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:11 PM
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It's emissions stuff. It pull fumes from the gas tank and burns them in your engine
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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:14 PM
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ok thanks.
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