Storing For The Year, Have Some Questions
10-12-2006, 11:42 AM
#1
Storing For The Year, Have Some Questions Well at the end of October the TA is going nighty night for the winter..
The car is a 2002 Trans Am with 41k miles
What are some stuff to do before putting it away?
i am going to be doing the folowing..
Oil Change
Coolant Flush. Refil it with Dex Cool III right?
Fuel Filter, i changed it last November
what other stuff to do with it???
The car is a 2002 Trans Am with 41k miles
What are some stuff to do before putting it away?
i am going to be doing the folowing..
Oil Change
Coolant Flush. Refil it with Dex Cool III right?
Fuel Filter, i changed it last November
what other stuff to do with it???
10-12-2006, 06:56 PM
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get the stuff called (damp rid) and put it in your interior,it comes in a cup with some white bead like pebbles that absorb moisture and keeps you interior dry and nice.I have used it for years and it suprises me everytime i use it..even in climate controled conditions it has some water in the bottom of the cup.. fits well in the cupholder behind the shifter..and add some Sta-bil to the gas tank and store it with a full tank of gas..add pressure to your tires(40 works good) and dont put it on jackstands,let it sit loaded.read sticky
10-13-2006, 01:22 PM
#4
Originally Posted by redtail2426
get the stuff called (damp rid) and put it in your interior,it comes in a cup with some white bead like pebbles that absorb moisture and keeps you interior dry and nice.I have used it for years and it suprises me everytime i use it..even in climate controled conditions it has some water in the bottom of the cup.. fits well in the cupholder behind the shifter..and add some Sta-bil to the gas tank and store it with a full tank of gas..add pressure to your tires(40 works good) and dont put it on jackstands,let it sit loaded.read sticky
good advice there.. where do you ge tthe damp rid or silica packs from????
10-13-2006, 01:39 PM
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Here's my checklist
- change oil and filter just before storage.
- check all fluid levels (tranny, p/s, brakes) and top up if needed
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
- fill gas tank and add a high quality fuel stabilizer like Stabil to prevent the gas from "gumming".
- wash, clay if you can (don't let particles rest in the paint for 4 - 6 months) and wax or polish paint
- condition all of the weather-stripping with silicone conditioner - GM sells this as well as most autoparts stores.
- lubricate all hinges.
- wipe down all engine bay hoses with either the silicone conditioner or Armorall to prevent drying or cracking.
- vacuum the interior.
- treat leather seats with a good leather conditioner.
- treat dash and other areas with Zaino, Back to Black, etc.
- wash interior windows.
- remove antenna (if you are covering).
- treat tires with a non-petroleum based conditioner.
- just before storage inflate tires to maximum recommended rating. The "flat spots" came out of my GY GS-D3's in about 15 miles in the spring. Most car manufacturers do not recommend taking the weight off the suspension during storage
- disconnect the battery (and remove if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- check your antifreeze strength and drain windshield reservoir if filled with summer fluid (if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- place a deodorizer / moisture absorber in car to prevent stale smells – tool supply stores sell vinyl mesh bags with volcanic ash that absorbs and Home Depot has a powder in a container.
- cover the car.
- if storing outside, plug exhaust pipes and other entry points for rodents to prevent them from wintering in your car.
I've done this since I bought my SS in 2000 and it comes out every spring ready to roll.
- change oil and filter just before storage.
- check all fluid levels (tranny, p/s, brakes) and top up if needed
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
- fill gas tank and add a high quality fuel stabilizer like Stabil to prevent the gas from "gumming".
- wash, clay if you can (don't let particles rest in the paint for 4 - 6 months) and wax or polish paint
- condition all of the weather-stripping with silicone conditioner - GM sells this as well as most autoparts stores.
- lubricate all hinges.
- wipe down all engine bay hoses with either the silicone conditioner or Armorall to prevent drying or cracking.
- vacuum the interior.
- treat leather seats with a good leather conditioner.
- treat dash and other areas with Zaino, Back to Black, etc.
- wash interior windows.
- remove antenna (if you are covering).
- treat tires with a non-petroleum based conditioner.
- just before storage inflate tires to maximum recommended rating. The "flat spots" came out of my GY GS-D3's in about 15 miles in the spring. Most car manufacturers do not recommend taking the weight off the suspension during storage
- disconnect the battery (and remove if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- check your antifreeze strength and drain windshield reservoir if filled with summer fluid (if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- place a deodorizer / moisture absorber in car to prevent stale smells – tool supply stores sell vinyl mesh bags with volcanic ash that absorbs and Home Depot has a powder in a container.
- cover the car.
- if storing outside, plug exhaust pipes and other entry points for rodents to prevent them from wintering in your car.
I've done this since I bought my SS in 2000 and it comes out every spring ready to roll.
10-13-2006, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by beaSSt
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
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10-13-2006, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by beaSSt
Here's my checklist
- change oil and filter just before storage.
- check all fluid levels (tranny, p/s, brakes) and top up if needed
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
- fill gas tank and add a high quality fuel stabilizer like Stabil to prevent the gas from "gumming".
- wash, clay if you can (don't let particles rest in the paint for 4 - 6 months) and wax or polish paint
- condition all of the weather-stripping with silicone conditioner - GM sells this as well as most autoparts stores.
- lubricate all hinges.
- wipe down all engine bay hoses with either the silicone conditioner or Armorall to prevent drying or cracking.
- vacuum the interior.
- treat leather seats with a good leather conditioner.
- treat dash and other areas with Zaino, Back to Black, etc.
- wash interior windows.
- remove antenna (if you are covering).
- treat tires with a non-petroleum based conditioner.
- just before storage inflate tires to maximum recommended rating. The "flat spots" came out of my GY GS-D3's in about 15 miles in the spring. Most car manufacturers do not recommend taking the weight off the suspension during storage
- disconnect the battery (and remove if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- check your antifreeze strength and drain windshield reservoir if filled with summer fluid (if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- place a deodorizer / moisture absorber in car to prevent stale smells – tool supply stores sell vinyl mesh bags with volcanic ash that absorbs and Home Depot has a powder in a container.
- cover the car.
- if storing outside, plug exhaust pipes and other entry points for rodents to prevent them from wintering in your car.
I've done this since I bought my SS in 2000 and it comes out every spring ready to roll.
- change oil and filter just before storage.
- check all fluid levels (tranny, p/s, brakes) and top up if needed
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
- fill gas tank and add a high quality fuel stabilizer like Stabil to prevent the gas from "gumming".
- wash, clay if you can (don't let particles rest in the paint for 4 - 6 months) and wax or polish paint
- condition all of the weather-stripping with silicone conditioner - GM sells this as well as most autoparts stores.
- lubricate all hinges.
- wipe down all engine bay hoses with either the silicone conditioner or Armorall to prevent drying or cracking.
- vacuum the interior.
- treat leather seats with a good leather conditioner.
- treat dash and other areas with Zaino, Back to Black, etc.
- wash interior windows.
- remove antenna (if you are covering).
- treat tires with a non-petroleum based conditioner.
- just before storage inflate tires to maximum recommended rating. The "flat spots" came out of my GY GS-D3's in about 15 miles in the spring. Most car manufacturers do not recommend taking the weight off the suspension during storage
- disconnect the battery (and remove if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- check your antifreeze strength and drain windshield reservoir if filled with summer fluid (if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- place a deodorizer / moisture absorber in car to prevent stale smells – tool supply stores sell vinyl mesh bags with volcanic ash that absorbs and Home Depot has a powder in a container.
- cover the car.
- if storing outside, plug exhaust pipes and other entry points for rodents to prevent them from wintering in your car.
I've done this since I bought my SS in 2000 and it comes out every spring ready to roll.
10-13-2006, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by beaSSt
Here's my checklist
- change oil and filter just before storage.
- check all fluid levels (tranny, p/s, brakes) and top up if needed
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
- fill gas tank and add a high quality fuel stabilizer like Stabil to prevent the gas from "gumming".
- wash, clay if you can (don't let particles rest in the paint for 4 - 6 months) and wax or polish paint
- condition all of the weather-stripping with silicone conditioner - GM sells this as well as most autoparts stores.
- lubricate all hinges.
- wipe down all engine bay hoses with either the silicone conditioner or Armorall to prevent drying or cracking.
- vacuum the interior.
- treat leather seats with a good leather conditioner.
- treat dash and other areas with Zaino, Back to Black, etc.
- wash interior windows.
- remove antenna (if you are covering).
- treat tires with a non-petroleum based conditioner.
- just before storage inflate tires to maximum recommended rating. The "flat spots" came out of my GY GS-D3's in about 15 miles in the spring. Most car manufacturers do not recommend taking the weight off the suspension during storage
- disconnect the battery (and remove if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- check your antifreeze strength and drain windshield reservoir if filled with summer fluid (if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- place a deodorizer / moisture absorber in car to prevent stale smells – tool supply stores sell vinyl mesh bags with volcanic ash that absorbs and Home Depot has a powder in a container.
- cover the car.
- if storing outside, plug exhaust pipes and other entry points for rodents to prevent them from wintering in your car.
I've done this since I bought my SS in 2000 and it comes out every spring ready to roll.
- change oil and filter just before storage.
- check all fluid levels (tranny, p/s, brakes) and top up if needed
- do not start the car during storage if it is only being stored for 4 - 6 months. This actually creates condensation within the engine and exhaust systems and accelerates corrosion.
- fill gas tank and add a high quality fuel stabilizer like Stabil to prevent the gas from "gumming".
- wash, clay if you can (don't let particles rest in the paint for 4 - 6 months) and wax or polish paint
- condition all of the weather-stripping with silicone conditioner - GM sells this as well as most autoparts stores.
- lubricate all hinges.
- wipe down all engine bay hoses with either the silicone conditioner or Armorall to prevent drying or cracking.
- vacuum the interior.
- treat leather seats with a good leather conditioner.
- treat dash and other areas with Zaino, Back to Black, etc.
- wash interior windows.
- remove antenna (if you are covering).
- treat tires with a non-petroleum based conditioner.
- just before storage inflate tires to maximum recommended rating. The "flat spots" came out of my GY GS-D3's in about 15 miles in the spring. Most car manufacturers do not recommend taking the weight off the suspension during storage
- disconnect the battery (and remove if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- check your antifreeze strength and drain windshield reservoir if filled with summer fluid (if storing outside and if the temperature goes below freezing)
- place a deodorizer / moisture absorber in car to prevent stale smells – tool supply stores sell vinyl mesh bags with volcanic ash that absorbs and Home Depot has a powder in a container.
- cover the car.
- if storing outside, plug exhaust pipes and other entry points for rodents to prevent them from wintering in your car.
I've done this since I bought my SS in 2000 and it comes out every spring ready to roll.
I did all this before I deployed to Iraq and it worked out well, no problems.
I also put the car on jackstands under the subframes and removed the wheels and tires. I also, wrapped the tailpapes in plastic, and removed the lid and sealed the throttle body. Don't forget to disconnect your battery as well. Maybe even remove it all together and get it indoors.
10-13-2006, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by redtail2426
get the stuff called (damp rid) and put it in your interior,it comes in a cup with some white bead like pebbles that absorb moisture and keeps you interior dry and nice.I have used it for years and it suprises me everytime i use it..even in climate controled conditions it has some water in the bottom of the cup.. fits well in the cupholder behind the shifter..and add some Sta-bil to the gas tank and store it with a full tank of gas..add pressure to your tires(40 works good) and dont put it on jackstands,let it sit loaded.read sticky
10-13-2006, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1>girlfriend
whats the purpose of a full tank of gas? our gas tanks are plastic...on older cars you fill-em-up so they dont rust out but i see no reason to spoil a full tank of gas. remember that gasoline stays good for 4-5 months.
10-14-2006, 02:54 AM
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that black gas tank above the heat sheild in front of the panhard bar is metal...could of fooled me. i apologize
EDIT: ive also heard of storing with carpet under your tires...guess it distributes the weight and reduces flat spot
EDIT: ive also heard of storing with carpet under your tires...guess it distributes the weight and reduces flat spot
10-14-2006, 09:58 AM
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the full tank of gas will not go bad when you add the STA-bil to it.and it just keeps less room for moisture and condensation.
and yes do not start your car if its 6 months or less,as stated by beaSSt,this will only add moisture and crap into your oil,which cant get hot enough to burn it off just sitting there.
and yes do not start your car if its 6 months or less,as stated by beaSSt,this will only add moisture and crap into your oil,which cant get hot enough to burn it off just sitting there.
10-14-2006, 10:25 AM
#14
Originally Posted by redtail2426
the full tank of gas will not go bad when you add the STA-bil to it.and it just keeps less room for moisture and condensation.
and yes do not start your car if its 6 months or less,as stated by beaSSt,this will only add moisture and crap into your oil,which cant get hot enough to burn it off just sitting there.
and yes do not start your car if its 6 months or less,as stated by beaSSt,this will only add moisture and crap into your oil,which cant get hot enough to burn it off just sitting there.
So should you start the car if its being stored longer than 6 months?
10-14-2006, 10:35 AM
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i would say if your going to be doing like 10 months or something to start it up on the fifth month,but i would think just let it run for like 30 seconds or so to get some oil moving,and to get the piston rings in a different spot.i wouldnt let it run and idle up to temp or anything.
10-14-2006, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1>girlfriend
that black gas tank above the heat sheild in front of the panhard bar is metal...could of fooled me. i apologize
10-14-2006, 09:58 PM
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So what's wrong with rolling the car out every couple weeks, or once a month or so, and driving it around the parking lot up to temperature (apartment complex) to keep the whole car (fuel, oil, all other fluids) in running condition? It would basically be like not putting it into storage at all. Fluid changes would then be done when the weather clears up in the spring and the car is "driven" again.
10-14-2006, 10:54 PM
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well i guess you could do that if the weather isnt that bad and you can easily get the car out....but then again i dont see the point as there is nothing wrong with just lettting it sit and not starting it,as long as you wont be storing for a long time like over 10 months
10-15-2006, 09:18 AM
#20
Well the t/a is in storage..
I am not completely done with it yet.. Still need to get the damp rid and fill the tires up and add a little more gas. Just below F
Anyways this is what I did.. Took me a long time but well worth it. The paint
I will get some pics when I go back on Monday or Tuesday
First after I got off of work I went to my friend’s cousin’s shop. Did an oil change, put in a new fuel filter and did a coolant flush too.
Started by cleaning out my mom’s garage she was nice enough to let me store it there. There is a waiting list for a garage where I live.
Next I vacuumed out the car. Just be fore I put it away the car was already clean btw b/c I went to the track last weekend already washed and waxed. But anyways I vacuumed the car again. I took my time and went over every nook and cranny.
I then proceeded to the interior. The best glass cleaner ever is INVISIBLE GLASS. Been using that for 4+yrs now. Did all the windows, front window, rear view mirror, the mirrors in the visors, pass a drivers side windows and the rear window.. BTW yes INVISIBLE GLASS is safe for tinted windows. All my cars I have ever owned has had tint, and INVISIBLE GLASS has never tuned them purple..
After cleaning the windows I used Meguiars NXT interior cleaner for the dash, door panels, the rear seat all the plastic and by the hatch were the T-tops are held and the plastic where the rear speakers are.
Washing time. I soaked the car with water first. Filled up a bucket of HOT water with Dawn dishwashing soap. Proceeded to wash the Trans Am.. I really washed it really well... got it all nice and soapy. Cleaned the chrome rims too
Rinse.. No need to explain
Then I took the California wiper blade got rid off all the water, what ever was left took the ABSORBER chamois and get the remaining water. NOTE- I highly recommend the California wiper blade it will cut your drying time down by almost 98%
Made sure all the water was off the car. I proceeded to wax. Here is what I used. I got the Meguiars 3 stage wax. 1 step is a cleaner wax, 2nd step is a carnauba wax and the 3rd step is a polishing wax. I don’t really need to explain how to wax a car. I did do it sections at a time. I applied the wax with a terry circular pad and I took the wax off with these little towels that are 1' ft by 1' ft and are diaper soft. Got them both from AutoZone. BTW when I was waxing the car I started at 4 got done at 7. And the temp was around 50* PERFECT waxing conditions
Almost done. Then I did all exterior windows with INVISIBLE GLASS. I also cleaned the headlights and fog lights too.
Next came the chrome rims.. All I did was spray INVISIBLE GLASS on them. Been doing that to my chrome fore ever.
Now I treated the leather with the Meguiars leather conditioner.
Finally I took silicone spray to a terry towel, sprayed it down and took the towel over all the seals. By the window, and T-tops and wiped them all down. Sprayed the 2 door, sprayed the hinges and by the trunk wiped that seal down too..
I am practically all done. I did take the Trans Am for a short cruise. The rotors were sitting all the time with water on them. We all know that rusts builds up on them. So I took it for a cruise to get the rust off, plus I wanted to get any remaining water out of my rear bumper..
Came back parked it in the nice clean garage put the cover on it, said good night till I come back with the Damp Rid..
What is next? Pull the battery or leave it.. Will be sitting November - April.. 6 months...
I am not completely done with it yet.. Still need to get the damp rid and fill the tires up and add a little more gas. Just below F
Anyways this is what I did.. Took me a long time but well worth it. The paint
I will get some pics when I go back on Monday or TuesdayFirst after I got off of work I went to my friend’s cousin’s shop. Did an oil change, put in a new fuel filter and did a coolant flush too.
Started by cleaning out my mom’s garage she was nice enough to let me store it there. There is a waiting list for a garage where I live.
Next I vacuumed out the car. Just be fore I put it away the car was already clean btw b/c I went to the track last weekend already washed and waxed. But anyways I vacuumed the car again. I took my time and went over every nook and cranny.
I then proceeded to the interior. The best glass cleaner ever is INVISIBLE GLASS. Been using that for 4+yrs now. Did all the windows, front window, rear view mirror, the mirrors in the visors, pass a drivers side windows and the rear window.. BTW yes INVISIBLE GLASS is safe for tinted windows. All my cars I have ever owned has had tint, and INVISIBLE GLASS has never tuned them purple..
After cleaning the windows I used Meguiars NXT interior cleaner for the dash, door panels, the rear seat all the plastic and by the hatch were the T-tops are held and the plastic where the rear speakers are.
Washing time. I soaked the car with water first. Filled up a bucket of HOT water with Dawn dishwashing soap. Proceeded to wash the Trans Am.. I really washed it really well... got it all nice and soapy. Cleaned the chrome rims too
Rinse.. No need to explain
Then I took the California wiper blade got rid off all the water, what ever was left took the ABSORBER chamois and get the remaining water. NOTE- I highly recommend the California wiper blade it will cut your drying time down by almost 98%
Made sure all the water was off the car. I proceeded to wax. Here is what I used. I got the Meguiars 3 stage wax. 1 step is a cleaner wax, 2nd step is a carnauba wax and the 3rd step is a polishing wax. I don’t really need to explain how to wax a car. I did do it sections at a time. I applied the wax with a terry circular pad and I took the wax off with these little towels that are 1' ft by 1' ft and are diaper soft. Got them both from AutoZone. BTW when I was waxing the car I started at 4 got done at 7. And the temp was around 50* PERFECT waxing conditions
Almost done. Then I did all exterior windows with INVISIBLE GLASS. I also cleaned the headlights and fog lights too.
Next came the chrome rims.. All I did was spray INVISIBLE GLASS on them. Been doing that to my chrome fore ever.
Now I treated the leather with the Meguiars leather conditioner.
Finally I took silicone spray to a terry towel, sprayed it down and took the towel over all the seals. By the window, and T-tops and wiped them all down. Sprayed the 2 door, sprayed the hinges and by the trunk wiped that seal down too..
I am practically all done. I did take the Trans Am for a short cruise. The rotors were sitting all the time with water on them. We all know that rusts builds up on them. So I took it for a cruise to get the rust off, plus I wanted to get any remaining water out of my rear bumper..
Came back parked it in the nice clean garage put the cover on it, said good night till I come back with the Damp Rid..
What is next? Pull the battery or leave it.. Will be sitting November - April.. 6 months...