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Sub-Frame connectors?

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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 04:53 AM
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Default Sub-Frame connectors?

I tried a search for this..... but it keeps coming up with random B.S. and no useful info.


Basically.... Are sub frame connectors worth having? I realize these cars are rattle boxes from the factory..... Could they help out that issue at all?

If so.... Any reccomendations as to which ones to get?
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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Absolutely required. Will help with preventing rattles.
Choices are as varied as opinions will be. I went with tubular and could not be more pleased. Boxed hang lower and may affect ground clearance, but are considered stronger.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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And get weld in subframe connectors, not bolt in style. I have tubular UMI and they are a nice setup. UMI and BMR seem to be the popular choices.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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Im gonig w/ the SLP weld in. they are triangulated styl;e which means they really brace the car and theya re boxed and dont kill ground clearance
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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Yes, get 'em. I have weld-in BMR tubular SFCs. The car just feels so much better with them, especially when cornering hard.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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Everyone should have SFCs. I noticed a considerable difference in how stiff the car felt in all types of driving. Much more ridged.

However, I would disagree with getting the weld-in style. I have SLP bolt-on style, and it will be a stronger bond to your sub-frame if you bolt them on and weld them in addition.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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do the standard connectors work on verts? i was thinking it might take a different one.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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verts have different subframes.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
verts have different subframes.

Any reccomendations for a vert?







Refering to the SLP "x'd style".... What do you do if you have to do to get your exhaust/trans out? Looks as if that would be a problem.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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no, they dont block the exhaust or anything, they just go more towards the center of the car than others. BMR makes nice suspension stuff and I know they have them for a vert so look at them

heres a pic of the slp ones. notice how they dont block anything at all.
http://www.projectgangreen.com/Subframes.jpg
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Oh ok... I thought they met in the middle...

Thanks for the pic!! Looks like those might be the way to go.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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triangulated are hands down the best and give the best results but you may loose ground clearance it depends. id enver lower any of ym cars voer an inch if ever so that isnt a factor for me
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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I had a '97 LT1 Z28 with bmr weld-ins... This car was totaled... when I got my '98 Z28 I could actually feel the car twisting when I took a corner real fast (especially with a passanger in the car) I ordered up a new set of BMR's and it went away.

These are an absolut must!
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Sneaky
I tried a search for this..... but it keeps coming up with random B.S. and no useful info.


Basically.... Are sub frame connectors worth having? I realize these cars are rattle boxes from the factory..... Could they help out that issue at all?

If so.... Any reccomendations as to which ones to get?
You don't need them because they don't have enough power to twist anything.
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 10:34 AM
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Hello,

We also offer a very nice triangulated set of SFC's. They tuck up extremely well, the center braces are bent to follow the floor contour for maximum clearance and the are available in a bolt style. This means no cutting, no grinding and no drilling. Or we have our weld in style as well. Take a look at the few pictures below, also more can be found by visiting this link- www.umiperformance.com/2004.aspx

If anyone has any questions please ask and I am glad to help. Thanks! Ryan



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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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do you need that center piece that is tubular steel? does that bolt to the floor or the stock piece
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