09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Ok, so after having my mechanic change the 4 passenger side sparkplugs, i have that ticking noise associated with the metal gasket on the exaust manifold fitting, also a slight leak I think, cause I can smell a little more exhaust that usual. When I tried to get a replacement gasket, the guy at Autozone had no idea what I was talking about. It's the metal pipe that is secured to the manifold by 2 10mm bolts, and runs into a black rubber hose in the back of the engine bay(one pipe on each manifold). This is the AIR system, correct? Please help me out here, cause I wanna go get new gaskets tomorrow

sp00rkz

iTrader: (4)

EGR system. check the the bolts are tight before you spend any money.

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Nah man, the EGR is the one that runs into the intake manifold. The system i'm talking about is the one that gets your cats going when you start the car, runs from the exhaust manifold to the back of the engine bay. the gasket is NOT a circle in the middle, more like an oval.

turbologics

iTrader: (1)

Get you cats going ???

Seriously only thing connected to your exhaust manifolds are o2 sensors and an EGR fitting (yes oval with 2 10 mm bolts)

turbologics

iTrader: (1)

Maybe the line is for the air to reach the gerbil inside the cat so he can breath when he starts running in the wheel inside the cat to move the air from the engine to the rear

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

No, no, no. AIR system is what he needs a gaskek for. There is a tube on each manifold that connects AIR to the exhaust system.

Yes I am 5000% sure.

Looking at your sig, you've got an '02, which means your car never had an EGR system. Yet you still had 2 tubes when stock (one connecting to each manifold) going to the manifolds. For the '98-'00 cars, we have 3 tubes (one on each side for the AIR system and an extra one on the passenger side for the EGR system).

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system

Fresh outside air is pumped into the exhaust system via the manifolds after a cold start/restart to heat the cats quicker thus making them more efficent during open loop. More oxygen = hotter cats quicker.

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

^^^ See? I f-ing knew I was right.

turbologics

iTrader: (1)

I went and looked at your profile and let me tell you - your not right, you'll never be right - You ask stupid questions and you deserve to get stupid answers

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Please allow me to update. I replaced the gasket on the passenger side and it's still ticking. Tomorrow I will replace the driver side one. However, if that dosen't fix it, then I have a few more questions. Here's as much as I know: I first noticed the tick when I started my car for a vehicle inspection at work. right before I got to work I made a few hard pulls to smash this guy in a turbo civic, about 55-80 mph 2-3 times. I did not overrev, since I have an automatic. However, the only thing else that i've ever heard tick like this is valvetrain stuff, either a pushrod(bent), or a lifter or valvespring. Also, the sound does get faster as engine speed increases, which furthers my thinking that it is valvetrain related. However, the car has not lost power, and still revs fine(took it to about 5k rpm today), wouldn't a bent pushrod affects how the motor runs? Anyhow, i'd like any more input you can give me, pm me if you need more info. By the way, turbologics, sorry man, I wansn't trying to take a shot at you with the "I knew I was right" I just like to think that I'm right sometimes. I can tell by your sig that you know a lot more than me, and if you have some more opinions, i'd appreciate them.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've seen auto trans cars bend (and once even break) stock pushrods, but that's not common. You can bend a pushrod and the motor may still seem to run fine other than some increased valvetrain noise at first, but once it's bent it will worsen over time. But there are certainly other possibilities here.....

Start with the basics. Any chance you're low on oil? That'll give you some extra engine noise. Easy to check.

The ticking could also be an AIR check valve fluttering. They do go bad from time to time. One way to test them is to remove the valve and try blowing air in either direction though the valve. Air should only flow one way (towards the manifold), if you can blow air both ways, that valve is bad. They aren't very expensive, and it's easy to change.

The check valve is that little black buldge in the AIR tube that connects the metal hard pipe to the rubber line. One on each side.

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Nah, checked oil 2 days ago and added a little, I keep mine to where the oil line touches the tip of the arrow(6 qts.). I'll change that gasket(praying that that works), if not then i'll check the valves you were talking about. So, from what I described, bent pushrod is unlikely? If It is a bent pushrod, how safe is it to drive it like that?

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Also, what about the fact that the speed of the ticking gets faster as the engine revs faster? Could that still be an AIR problem? Also, if it is an AIR problem, is that system always on, I thought it was only at startup when the AIR system is needed.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

If an AIR check valve has gone bad, it will tick consistantly with the exhaust pluses even when the AIR system is off. It's supposed to be a one-way check valve when working properly and should be fully closed when AIR pump is off, but if it fails and begins to flow air both ways, it will flutter during acceleration.

As for what is most likely, that's really hard to tell without being there to hear the tick first hand. Could be valvetrain related. Could also be a loose plug, considering this started right after you had the plugs changed. Lose plug can certainly cause a tick.

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

I'll look at what you said, and If I can't figure it out, then it goes back to my mechanic on Monday. He's a good guy, and generally does good work, but he's getting older, and it seems like he ends up doing a lot of rework on our cars(free of charge of course), but it's frustrating.

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Also, you said those valves, when brokes, will flutter with the exhaust pulses, which are faster with higher engine speed, correct? Honestly, I kinda doubt that it's valvetrain related now, cause it's pretty damn loud, it almost sounds external to the motor. Also, I can smell exhaust more than usual, especially through the vents, though I doubt it's an exhaust leak, it really seems like it's related to the plug change. I guess the fact that I first noticed it after racing could be completely irrelevant, since it wasn't like I was actually "listening" for the noise, prolly just freaked out because of when I noticed it.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

In your particular case, all things considered (symptoms, noise showing up after plug change, etc.), I think it's most likely that the issue is related to a loose plug or something with the AIR system. Not knowing exactly how/what your mechanic took apart, it might even be that for some reason he unscrewed the check valves from the hard pipe and misthreaded them during the reinstall.

So what I would do in this case:

Since you're already planning to change the AIR pipe gaskets, give the check valves the old blow test (yeah I know that sounds dirty ), make sure they are securely threaded onto the AIR pipe, and change the tube-to-manifold gaskets.....

Also, I'd be sure to check all the plugs on that bank of the motor to make sure none are loose. There is a very good chance that this is causing your ticking issue, considering the situation

One other thing to keep in mind:

Once before, I have seen an AIR check valve fail completely. Meaning, the valve was allowing full flow of exahust backwards through the valve into the rubber AIR system tubing. The heat of the exhaust eventually melted the plastic and rubber components of the system (post-valve portion) and it ticked horribily. Not to mention the fire risk from the melting rubber/plastic. Though it's unlikely that your issue is this serious, you will notice right away when you pull the check valves if the rubber hose is starting to melt.

09CPTN

iTrader: (5)

Thanks a bunch!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

No problem, I hope it helps lead you to the answer.

If you're not able to get back to the rear plugs on the passenger side to fully check for proper tightness, then I'd take it back to the guy that changed them and explain the situation and what you've already tried. Then ask him to recheck those plugs for you.

Good luck.